bad idling . anyone know how to use the anti stall feature from e-manage

[nismo1003]

it's running fine, but when I'm braking or stopping the car, and shift it to neutral (it's a stick shift)and below 500 rpm , my car want to stall ,but after I revved it up above 1000rpm , then it will stay at idle around 500rpm. I am running a Blitz BOV (Open atmostphere) and the MAF before the compression side. when it stall .sometime , the gauge read at 20psi and back to 0 psi(I set at 8 psi for the wastegate) I also having hard time to start when this happen. but that doesnt happen often. what I dont' is that I don't see how my gauge read over 20 psi? my gauge is fine , it's a Autometer vaccum and boost gauge. when it is at idle, it read at 20 vaccum. by the way, I want to try the Anti Stall feature from E-mange. can anyone tell me how to set it up?

Thanx

[C-Kwik]

Describe the rest of your set-up. Particularly your fuel set-up. It's probably the fuel being too rich or too lean.

As far as the Anti-Stall, you need to choose a TPS signal at which the E-Manage stops sending it's interpretation of the MAF signal and just sends a set signal to the ECU. It's not as easy to work with if you are trying to solve a poor idle problem as opposed to an open BOV problem. You will have to do a little more guessing with the voltage the E-Manage will need to send to the ECU.

[nismo1003]

my setup

FMU with 270cc injectorWastegate set at 8 psiT3 turboE-manage ( for 370cc later) and tuningJgstools manifold

my Autometer A/F gauge read at stoich area at 5 psi when it hits 6-7 psi , my gauge read below stoich and lean area then my gauge shut off by itself? am I running TOO lean?

[Jonny 290]

the gauge isn't shutting off. you're just going so lean that it sees less than .1 volt (or whatever it's supposed to be to light up one light).

your fuel system is insufficient for safe performance at 8 psi, in my opinion. I recommend 370's and a walbro.

$200 < $500 (rough short block price)

[C-Kwik]

Have you made any changes to the E-Manage settings?

[nismo1003]

no, i haven't touch the fuel map from the e-manage at all. I am waiting for my 370cc still.... I do have a 255 fuel pump thou.

[C-Kwik]

If you have the support tool, do some datalogging and make sure the inputs and the outputs are the same. If they are, then the E-Manage is not the problem. You'll want to find this problem before you start playing with the injectors as it will be easier to rule it out. Make sure the wiring is correct and the connections are good as well. When I added my E-Manage, U was also running the stock injecors and an FMU initially. It ran no different than it did before I added the E-Manage.

[nismo1003]

one of the 370cc injector. look at the picture, the pital cap is broken and the black thingy doesn't look good at all. that why I am thinking the injector is leaking and having hard time to start (with a new set of o-ring) u think dealer would have them ? RC would be my last choice.

[C-Kwik]

I though you were still running the 270cc injector.

I'm not sure if anyone sells the piece you need.

And use brand new O-rings. Use a small amount of petroleum jelly on the o-rings when installing them into the fuel rail so you lessen the chance of tearing them when you install them.

[nismo1003]

yes I am using a 270cc right now , I do have the 370cc but need to be serive (repair) ..but I had so much problem with it..so I swap it back to the 270cc..and it runs fine

[Jonny 290]

that injector doesn't look good, hmm

talk to rc engineering? they're injector pros. i bet they could advise.

http://www.rceng.com/

[andrave]

RC says on their site if there is any mechanical damage they can't fix it..

[nismo1003]

Thanx for the info guys, I actually email to RC, they said they have the pitle cap instock and I have to send them in to repair, so maybe that doesn't consider "mechanical damage" I dont know yet thou, it will be my last choice. I will also give a call to courtesy Nissan and see what they said. thank you!