Bad Headlight

Post by **OLU40** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

I changed my headlights to blue months back. The right headlamp always blows out. This is my third set. I just bought new lights and now my right side is out again. The other side is fine. Please tel me this is not burnt out wiring. If so I know it has to cost:shocked

Post by **OLU40** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Hey guys, don't forget about me! I'm trying to avoid a fat ticket and costly electrical repairs. Hit me ASAP!

Post by **Q45tech** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

There are quality bulbs, there are good bulbs, then there are most blue bulbs. There are bulbs that are expensive and last longer because thay are lower wattage and put low less TOTAL light [PIAA]. There are bulbs made in Mexico, Malaysia, Korea, China and quality bulbs made in Japan and Germany.

The blue coat actually keeps extra heat inside the bulb and to get close to the same light output they may operate at a higher wattage thus their life is greatly diminished. Good marketing to sell more and more frequently.

Bulb life is a function of voltage and the internal pressure to keep the tungsten from boiling off the filament.

The Q sockets were designed for all standard LEGAL bulb wattage!

Post by **OLU40** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

dDoes this mean my wiring is shot? I was gonna geet PIAA (expensive). Now it'll probably really cost.

Post by **Professor_Mike** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Check the ground for the right side INFINITI's will sometimes have ground problems related to lighting. You might try an additional ground from the bulb wiring to a good ground near the battery.

Post by **Q45tech** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Guess I wasn't clear! Why would you want to spend money on headlight bulbs that cost alot and don't deliver more light output [due to lower than stock wattage PIAA] [as measured arcross the driving lane in candle power with test equipment] than stock bulbs.

Easy to look inside the lamp socket for burns or corrosion and measure the ground pin of lamp socket to battery negative [differential voltage or resistance].

The nice thing about the Q is the socket fails before taking out the 'headlight relays' or the 'bulb out sensors' otherwise blue bulbs would really end up being expensive.

Don't change the wiring path from the socket [just replace the socket if necessary as the bulb ground goes through the bulb out sensor then to ch***is ground -- otherwise you may show a bulb out when it is actually working.

Post by **AZhitman** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Any thoughts on the PIAA 5000K 60/55w Platinum White H4 bulbs? The 10% of vanity in me really likes the look...

Go ahead Dennis - I can take it... can hear the screen door slamming as I type.

Post by **jefftrexler** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

I'm still lovin my Catz Galaxy headlights. I've had them in for about 1-1/2 years and they work perfectly. I got them for both high-beams and low-beams. Only cost me $80 for both pairs.

Post by **Q45tech** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Incandescent Light output is a function of power consumption. There is no way around it. You can cheat by skewing the visable spectrum but most eyes are the same. You can cheat by altering the shape [straight or tapered coil] of the filament or its distance from the focal point of the reflector [both are PIAA tricks] but the depersion of the light will be uneven. Black hole in middle or less to the pasenger side of the road.The on car lens and reflector were designed for a normal DOT type bulb with the filament at a certian distance from the reflector

Inert gas at pressure keeps the Tungsten molrcules from boiling off as fast and therefore the thin high current spots don't develop as fast which leads to failure.Bulb life and output are very sensitive to minor voltage changes:on a 12.8-13.2 volt bulb a 0.1 volt difference will yield dozens of hours of differenial life.The problem of lens scratching, sand etching, internal dirt, oil film, etc needs to be addressed at 100k as the light transmission is significantly impared.

Post by **AZhitman** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

That's all I needed to hear - I'm gonna replace with the stockers. What's your recommendation?

Post by **reggiegsd** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Spend the time and hunt down either "Hella" or "Osram" bulbs. Stick with the standard H4 (55/60 Watts) or if you feel lucky go with 80/100 watts. I've used the 80/100s for a year in a '94 Q with no bad effects.

MAKE SURE your contacts are clean and your wiring is healthy. Use a dielectric grease to protect the connections.

Remember, Hellas or Osrams.

Post by **OLU40** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Sorry guys for the delay on the responses. Cookies were messed up. If you ever have a problem the Monarch is the one to see. Dennis, I checked for corrosion, burning, etc inside the plug itslef and any surrounding wiring. Nothing found. I'll take it to dealer and see what they say about the ground. As far as effectiveness, I like looks. My blue lights serve well enough and look pretty good. It's all about effect and what you like. My first car, in my 20's no kids, why not!!!!!:beerchug Hey Reggie, where can you get those Hella lights? I haven't found them yet. Oh by the way thanks everybody for the clues.

Post by **reggiegsd** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Most high end performance shops will carry them. If you can't find them locally try a Google search. It will produce 30 to 40 venders with email addresses.

Post by **Q451990** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Or you could plunk down the big $$ on a retofitted HID system. Would cost about $450 from someone like HIDS 4 Less. It's on my wish list - but haven't tried it yet. Just beware of kits without rebased or custom based bulbs and pig-tail wires (the standard HID connector won't fit...

Heath

Post by **OLU40** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Thanks guys. I have thought about the HID option, but I'd rather take that 450-$600 and get a JWT ECU! Who knows? By the time I could get it I hope to have a 2002Q with it already standard. I'm taking the spaceship into Infiniti tommorrow or Friday. Hope they over analyze to charge me for something simple. Dennis and the Doc made a good guess at the ground, socket, etc. We'll see. NY is hard pressed for good value!:uzi

Post by **OLU40** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Socket was fine. It only activated the right socket when the high beams were activated. So it's definetly a short. Now I have to find it. Great

Post by **Hot91Q** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

i have a 6000k HID system with external ballasts and external Igniters and i kid you not, the lights are so nice that you do not need any foglamps!!! the lights when aimed propely light the road up soooooooooooooooooooo nicely!!!!!!!! I love them so much!!

Post by **maxnix** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Pictures of the installation (where are the ballasts and how are they mounted?) and the results (beam pattern) required!

Please post.

Post by **OLU40** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Found out my problem was a so called polarity issue that had to be reversed. Never heard of this but I have had no problems since fixed by electrical guys ($48.00). I think I'm going HID. Will I have a problem with the bad headlight sensor or do I have to do some slicing and connection?

Post by **maxnix** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Replaced bulbs with Sylvania Silver Star bulbs, all of which are the correct wattage. Bulbs replaced were Osram also, with different part numbers. Definitely whiter, but not a lot brighter.

The Sylvania Xenon 1010 looks like it would make good replacement for the fog lamps, especially if it could be wired to the on-stalk fog light switch. Wouldn't quite fill the opening though, and they mount differently. Sylvania does not make a Silver Star H3 bulb for the fog lights.

Post by **blackJ30T** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

I put in the cheap swap meet blue lamps, and got poor light then no light. After a 5 hr. night drive, I had no light on the lows. After reading this post, I went to check my bulbs by putting the old bulbs back in.

The first bulb would not go in!!!!!!

What the heck!!

The key on the bulb was too wide, the old bulb would NEVER go back in!!

My two old bulbs were two different Philips 9004 bulbs wide key and narrow key. The sockets on the car are also different one with a wide key (passenger side) and the other with a normal key. A normal small key bulb will fit either socket.

What gives? Is one socket replaced (I got the car used)?

Replacing any of the old bulbs got them working. The sockets do not look corroded, but they obviously are.

Post by **elwesso** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

I dont know why anyone would want to replace their headlight bulbs in the Q.. They are FAR superior to ANY headlight, even today!!! The brights are BLINDING!!! If you are gonna replace them, the silverstars seem to be about the best.....

What are the p/n for silverstars, brights, lows, and fogs???

Post by **maxnix** » Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:30 am

Sylvania has a nice search function by car make, year and model at their website.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

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