Bad day for the DIY'er

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Mayhem_J30
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Since the transmission went out recently I decided I would at least inspect the filter myself before having the whole big daddy replaced. I was also planning on putting the new front sway bar on tonight as well while I was up. Nothing went as planned....

Before even getting started I got owned by the engine hoist while looking for one of my jack stands. The big hook drilled me right under my eye. I expect a shiner in the morning.

Then I drive the J30 up on my new rhino ramps(yes they actually fit..woohoo!). They transmission worked just long enough to get it up on em. It appeared secure. Then I moved around to the rear and began to jack up the rear to put on stands. I got it pretty far up and the thing came rolling off the ramps towards us!! the jack on the rear luckily stayed attached to the lift spot but it rolled half way out of the garage and into the driveway with the jack. It pinned a jack stand underneath one of the rear tires. After cleaning up that mess and finally getting the car suspended I manage to get the transmission oil pan off and the filter. The bottom of the pan is glittering with tiny metal pieces and the filter did look pretty clogged, but probably not enough to cause the transmission failure. The ATF was pretty nasty too for not even being a year old. Well there's nothing else I could do with that at this point.

So I moved on to doing the front sway bar. All the bolt were coming off fine until I got to the one of the front two on the drivers side. It's the one that faces the motor. Unlike the others it was pretty coroded and didn't take a liking to a wrench to well. it was also the most difficult to get to. After using plenty of liquid wrench and perfoming ancient yoga methods to get a wrench up there I only managed to round off the corroded edges some what. The bar looks SO easy to get out except for this one nut! I threw in the towel and called it a night.

I think I'm gonna start leaving all this stuff up to the professionals regardless of what my wallet says.


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PalmerWMD
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I am sorry to hear of your bad luck....At least the car didnt get body damage when it rolled own or ghurt anyone.Things could be alot worse......

Fred...:(

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EZcheese15
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Yeah, well I replaced the head gasket on my 210 this weekend. Finished it up today. Went to pour coolant in the radiator, and after 3/4 gallon of coolant, i start hearing this running water sound. My headgasket is leaking horribly and coolant was pouring right out the side of the head/block. Now I have to take the freaking head off again and see why the hell it's leaking. It's a freaking brand new head too.

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PalmerWMD
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...:(...

bodyman240
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Man do I feel your pain. I got my 240 as a salvage and every part that I took off did the same crap. I would get everything off except one bolt or plug and they would never come out like the rest of them. But I didn't learn the throw in the towel trick. I would just get insanely pissed and start braking ****. I have calmed down a little and now just walk away. But that kind of stuff happens to me all the time. Sometimes I think my car sat at the bottom of a lake for a while, cause every bolt seems to be fused into place. As a matter of fact, I went on a junk yard run the other day, and every thing on the junk car came off easier than the stuff on my car does. I just can't win- but I love the damn 40.

greg_atlanta
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My stupid DIY trick this week was changing out one of the wheels (had tire repaired from screw and rode around on full size spare for a few days). With the car jacked up I tightened the lugs nuts as much as I could and then lowered the car.... but forgot to tighten again with wheel on the pavement.

Drive about a mile or two and think "Gee, either this tire is way out of balance or that patch is awfully noisy...." But I finally pull over and pop the center caps and discover one lug nut has almost fallen off and two others are pretty loose. Eeeeek!

At least I noticed it fast...... next time I'll take it to the tire place and WAIT!!

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EZcheese15
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Atleast you don't have to pull your cylinder head back off after you just put the car back together :rant :angryfire

greg_atlanta
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At least your cylinder head didn't leak at the interchange of 3 interstates!!!

(My wheel decided to wobble at the I75/I85/I20 interchange... at least I pulled off fast and found a safe spot).

bodyman240
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EZcheese, All I can say is... that ****in sucks. I can keep anger in check a little, but that would require a serious explosion of rage, and probably result in projectile sockets and wrenches. I think thats the worst story I have ever heard.

Jberger
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Personally, I think the worst part was you never mentioned having a beer. Don't you know bad things happen when you're not drinking in the garage?

I've found that even rusted on bolts come off better after a six pack. I prescribe a 12 pack in case of eye injury. Some days are just not good car days. . .

VimyJ
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Sorry to hear of your travails, Mayhem. Live and learn but the shiner really sucks. Now everybody is going to ask you what happened reminding you of your rough night in the garage.:( :mad:

How was the magnet? A lot of stuff on it?

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Chally
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Mayhem, Lucky the car didn't get you as you were jacking it up. Remember, when you use a trolley jack, it will pull the car towards you the higher it gets, so you MUST chock the front tyres, expecially when they're on the ramp.

juiceman
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even the "pros" have probs. Have my car int the shop to inspect the u-koints and shaft and they cannot break loose the bolts on the read diff to flange mount. They are soaking again today and will cut the bolts off tomorrow if they cannot free by hand.

Glad to hear everyone is ok. When I DIY, I'm anal because I recheck every bolt and nut before putting anything away. Always afraid I will be driving around and have something fall off

I used to use liq wrench but switched to pb blaster. this is the nector of the gods for frozen and rusted bolts. Sved my arse quite a few times. Now I just spray any bolt I remove before doing so and it comes of easy

Are you going to inspect your DS to while it is out. If there is alocal shop have it balanced. Alot easier than taking it out again after install and finding you accdentally knocked a wieght off or something.

Wish you luck on the transmission.

Need4Speed
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I can attest to the miracle of PB Blaster!

For best results on really stubborn bolts, spray the bolt or nut once a day for a week before removal.

Andy

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Mayhem_J30
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I'll try the PB blaster. thanks. i've been using this bottle of liquid wrench that's probably as old as i am. smells like gasoline, but that's probably what it is. Those bolts were amazing. 3 of the 4 in the front looked brand new. They still had that brass coating look and little red/yellow paint marks on them from the factory. But that one seemed corroded to hell. I knew it was going to be bad from the start because I could even get a wrench to sit properly on it. I moved to a standard size because it fit better.

Vimy, I've never looked at a pan and filter before so I could only guess. The magnet already had the silver gunk built up on it. I ran my finger across the pan and picked up dark funk there too. Is it to soon for that to be happening? It's been about 11 months since the last ATF change. I was also concerned about the gasket job that was done. It looks TOO perfect as if it was never changed kind of perfect. Oh well.Juiceman, I'm not taking out the DS my self, but when the transmission is replaced I'll make sure I have them balance it for me and check the joints.The noise when pulling it up on the ramps was horrifying. The whinning from the transmission was worse then before. Sounds like something rubbing at an extremely fast speed. uggghhh! But it worked long enough to get it up there. Soon as the next pay check comes in (end of the week) I'm ordering the new transmission then having it flat bedded up to the shop.

Question: Is the replacement of the rear main seal standard when replacing the transmission? What about the mounts?

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diamondj30
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glad to here your alright criss.hows that rear bar compare to your old one.i cant wait for you to get it up and running again.criss you have a bada$$ j too.now can you say,436

911/Q45
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Sounds like someone along the way replaced a good factory sway bar bolt with one they had laying around of much lower quality. Not much fun discovering people's shortcuts later.

maxnix
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After all that travail and the minimal part cost, I should hope so. Unless you enjoy de ja vu.

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Mayhem_J30
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diamondj30 wrote:glad to here your alright criss.hows that rear bar compare to your old one.i cant wait for you to get it up and running again.criss you have a bada$$ j too.now can you say,436


yeah those gears sound nice, but maybe to steep for me. I think there was a step in between stock and the 436's. don't wanna go on a road trip cruising at 4000 rpm the whole time.diamond, the rear bar is most definately bigger. I can tell that by just peaking underneath the car. Hopefully these bars will fit the high spring rate of the new springs better then the original. The newer springs annihilated the original bars through turns!

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diamondj30
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my springs are about 40 % and lower so yours should be fine.my speedo is 10 over almost exactly.i criuse at 28oo or so at 60.i will check later today.secound biggest improvment ive made beside sway bars.less shifting in overdrive more power up hills hardly ever has to kick down to 3rd gear on hills.as heavey as my car is there is a defenite difference in power and quickness over stock.

VimyJ
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diamondj30 wrote:my springs are about 40 % and lower so yours should be fine.my speedo is 10 over almost exactly.i criuse at 28oo or so at 60.i will check later today.secound biggest improvment ive made beside sway bars.less shifting in overdrive more power up hills hardly ever has to kick down to 3rd gear on hills.as heavey as my car is there is a defenite difference in power and quickness over stock.


Wow! 2800 rpm gives me 75 mph! What is your top speed now? You must have to gas up every couple of hours. 15 or 16 mpg highway?

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diamondj30
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my car is strickly for pleasure,so it doesnt matter.i dont work.only go to doctor every couple months.i think theres about a 75 mile difference,on the o.d.when i fill up.i fill up every 3 days or so.used to get 22 now i dont know,or care.the car is about handling and torque to get me there.i have more fun cornering than all out speed.like i said be3fore if ineeded all out speed id go for a 406 with 6 inch rods.

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Mayhem_J30
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diamondj30 wrote:my car is strickly for pleasure,so it doesnt matter.i dont work.only go to doctor every couple months.i think theres about a 75 mile difference,on the o.d.when i fill up.i fill up every 3 days or so.used to get 22 now i dont know,or care.the car is about handling and torque to get me there.i have more fun cornering than all out speed.like i said be3fore if ineeded all out speed id go for a 406 with 6 inch rods.


ditto. at least the pleasure part. i got a beater for daily driving so bad gas mileage and so forth whatever don't bother me.

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diamondj30
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awsome.65 is exactly 2800 on my rpm gauge.not bad

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Mayhem_J30
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UPDATE:infinitiparts.net had the cheapest transmission..$1995. That's without core charge or shipping. I don't care about those as shipping is something I can not avoid and the core charge is returned in the end. Plus the thought of no tax is GREAT! I'm saving around $200 on tax alone. Plus the transmission is more then $1000 cheaper then what the local infiniti dealer here offered. NOw my problem is getting someone to install it. No one wants to install parts that aren't theirs apparently. I've called several transmission shops and none want to do it. :( Kind of a pain after I go through the trouble finding the cheapest nissan remanned transmission and having it shipped here. I'm waiting now to talk to the manager at the transmission shop that does the local infiniti dealer's transmission work (apparently they don't do their own transmission work at the dealer). Hopefully he says yes and the rate is lower as the dealer charges an extra 'labor fee' for labor they've never done. The middle man charge is what it is. The transmission shop will charge $300-400 then the dealer will charge you a $1000. whatever!In other news my dad got that stripped nut off the sway bar bolt last night. He ended up cutting the nut off. Actually using a lil wiz wheel to slice it then just pryed it off.

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diamondj30
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dont worry criss,things will fall into place.about the sway bar.if your getting bounce its the struts they arent doing the job.i was looking at you exhaust ,can you get your back one on.i know.

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Mayhem_J30
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diamondj30 wrote:dont worry criss,things will fall into place.about the sway bar.if your getting bounce its the struts they arent doing the job.i was looking at you exhaust ,can you get your back one on.i know.


not sure yet. I'm already assuming that the rear end of the exhaust will have to be cut off then reassembled to do the rear bar. the guy that installed my exhausted welded the thing to everything which is great for rattles but bad for little things like this. no biggie. he's right up the street.

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diamondj30
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good deal

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Q451990
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I'd check with all of the import shops in the area that do that sort of work. As long as they don't have to warranty the part (re-do labor if the part doesn't fail) and only warranty installation problems, they shouldn't have a problem with it. Any competent shop should be able to do the swap - it's basically a very heavy bolt-off, bolt-on type replacement.

Make sure you have the transmission mount replaced at the same time, and check any sensors that have to be transferred from one unit to the other. I'd probably replace the turbine revolution sensor if it's not included on the reman. They tend to leak and malfunction and then you have to pull the transmission again to get it replaced (at least on the Q).

I'd also have the rear main seal replaced while they're in there. No need to pay all of that labor twice!

I'd also consider bypassing the OEM "cooler" for an aftermarket one. The OEM units tend to corrode and cause heat problems. Heat kills transmissions. If you use Mobil 1 ATF (flush after a few months) you should be fine in cold ambient temperatures down to 15 or 20F without the factory unit in series.

Heath

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Mayhem_J30
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Thanks Heath good info.

I haven't considered a transmission cooler as there so far isn't an actual aftermarket cooler for the J30, but I'm sure one could easily be adapted. I only planned on having the OEM cooler flushed real well during installation.

Your thoughts were the same as mine about the installation. It's the transmission that's warrantied not the installation. I think the shops are thinking that I'm wanting the transmission to be warrantied under the shop like normal...when all I really want is a good install, and then there should never be problems again.


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