bad cold start up idle (revisited?)

[nyckanny]

Hi, I'm not sure if anyone has the same exact issue as myself concerning a low idle. It only occurs when the temperature gauge on the dash is not at the normal operating temperature. While brake pedal is stepped on in neutral the idle drops very low, and the bounces back up and down between (700~1200) for a few seconds only after coming to a full stop from before. This only occurs when the engine has not warmed up. On several occasions, even letting the car slow in neutral when cold, the same problem occurs, and will bounce around again only when the car has come to a full stop. this is on a 95 ka, i believe its OBD I, one of the few out there, as the car was purchased new in late 94 actually. is it the egr? or what, its annoying me. about 92k on engine right now

Thanks!

[Ubernoober]

Does it happen only when you use the brakes? If so I would look at the brake booster.

[InsanityInc]

it's probably whichever idle valve compensates for electrical load. Your brake lights take quite a bit of power.

[nyckanny]

yeah, i'm assuming it is one of the idle systems, because turning the wheel, brake lights, windows, all affect the idle somewhat, but much less so than when braking with a cold engine. And remember that when the engine is warm, braking does not affect the idle here. So which idle valve might it be?????

there are too many idle control systems in cars these days!

[nyckanny]

it's probably whichever idle valve compensates for electrical load. Your brake lights take quite a bit of power.

After the car comes to a stop, with my foot still on the brake pedal, the idle returns to a steady value after bouncing around shortly.

[InsanityInc]

Could still be a problem with it, that just means it's not completely shot. Try just giving your idle valves a solid few raps with a screwdriver. I'm not sure which of the 3 idle valves is for electrical load, though. It should say in the FSM.