Bad clicking noise coming from engine

[Wyldefreak]

heyI have a 1989 nissan 240sx with the stock ka24e, I don't have any mods done to it yet, I just got it. All that is done is that it has new rims and tires, and a K&N air filter. The car a **** load of miles on it, 190,000. I was planning on doing an SR20DET or SR20VET swap, but I wanted to do exhaust and suspension before hand. As for the problem at hand. Recently I took the car out driving with my friend for about 4 hours up and down the mountain roads by where I live. After we were done we realized that somehow the car burned a quart of oil in that time, when it had never burned oil that bad before. The car was making some clicking/clunking noises, but once I put some oil in it they went away. Then the next day I noticed that the car would make that "marbles in a can" noise when I would reach around 3 grand and I noticed some misfiring. (maybe it slipped a notch on the timing chain) Then while while going to my auto class after lunch I missed a gear and the car rev'd up and then it started to make this horrible clicking noise. The noise is not the "marbles in a can" it is a "click" nothing more, it gets faster as the revs go up, not as speed goes up. My first thought was, timing chain, but the car ran fine, seemed to have just as much power as it did before. I got to the class and the car still seemed to run fine, but it was still clicking, so I looked around the engine, including taking an automotive stethoscope and trying to isolate the problem. It seemed like it was coming from the front of the engine (where the timing chain is). Then after giving up because my teacher was gone that day and I didn't want to pull the valve cover because I didn't have a replacement gasket at the time, I let the car sit for about an hour and half. Then when I started it to go home, the noise was gone. However, the "marbles in a can" around 3 grand was still there. The marbles in a can just sounded like valves not timing chain, but it could be timing chain, my thought was that timing the car would fix that, so I was planing on doing that later, but I have never done that before and was waiting for somebody to show me. Then, the guy that i knew who was going to help me out, was out of town for a couple days, so i was going to wait. The next day, while driving to school it started to make the clicking noise again after reving it up to around 4500 but then went away after about 30 seconds later after never going over 2500. So, being stupid, tired, and late to school I ignored it and went to school. For the next couple of days I never had a problem with that clicking noise. Then one moring I revd it up to problem 5 grand while not thinking because it was 3 in the morning and I was insanly tired the noise came back. Since I was 30 miles from home and had nobody to come save me. I had to drive home. The noise never went away, so, when I got home I let it sit for a 3 hours before I had to go to work hoping that it would go away like it did before, but it didn't. Now for the past 3 days it has been making that clicking noise and will not go away. There is still no obvious power loss and the clicking noise is loud enough to hear inside the car with all the windows up and soft music on, but normal volume music will cover it up. I don't know what to do I really don't want to spend too much on the engine because I'm going to swap it eventually. I was wondering if any of you had any ideas on what that noise is or how to make it go away.

[Wyldefreak]

I just remember one other thing. While the power of the car does seem to be fairly normal, the car will not let me go over around 100 I think. This has only happened since the clicking problem. It seems to me like the ECU has been put in some kind of safe mode and will not let me exceed a certain speed or rev. Any ideas on all these problems would be gratly appreciated.

[IDriveFords]

First thing to check with these cars is the Timing chain guides becuz they always break. Pull the valve cover and see if the guide up top is broken. This is the easiest and first thing you wanna check. If that one is broken or isn't broken some of the others may be broken and are a little harder to get to. If it is broken just remove it, it's not needed. Check this and your spark plugs as they could be fowled.

[s13redtaz]

First thing to check with these cars is the Timing chain guides becuz they always break. Pull the valve cover and see if the guide up top is broken. This is the easiest and first thing you wanna check. If that one is broken or isn't broken some of the others may be broken and are a little harder to get to. If it is broken just remove it, it's not needed. Check this and your spark plugs as they could be fowled.

wrong! he has an 89' which is the SOHC ka. do not take the guides off of a SOHC. you can take it off of a DOHC-because they are not needed. and where or who told you this information?

it can be your valves like you stated. try using heavier oil; if that doesn't help might need to adjust the valves (high rev+low oil could have caused it). is your ECU throwing any codes?

[Wyldefreak]

I have been trying to scan it at my shop but we can't find the cable. I got one sequence from the check engine light though. however, I don't think that it is anything because it's 1blink, 2 blinks, 3 blinks, 4 blinks, 5 blinks and then repeats over and over again. I will try and scan it tomorrow. Do you think that it is worth taking off the valve cover and looking around yet, or should I wait. (I already have the gasket) By the way, the plugs were a little fouled.

[redtop91]

When you let off the clutch almost until stall and tap the gas lightly does it act like it wants to stall?

[shadowracing]

you should do a compresion test on the motor both of my ka motors ive gone through have started with a ticking noice and a couple miles down the road they blew. in both situations the motors failed because of oil starvation.

[redtop91]

If so I'd say oil change and timing chain. Besides the SR clicks somewhat anyways. I have a brand new timing chain and recent oil change and there is still some clicking.

[180fan]

sr's click from the injectors. listen around and see where the clicking is coming from.

[ricebike]

it can be your valves like you stated. try using heavier oil; if that doesn't help might need to adjust the valves (high rev+low oil could have caused it). is your ECU throwing any codes?

SOHC have hydraulic valves, not shimmed valves of the DOHC engine...

hopefully, you can try to de-varnish the buildup of those sticky valves... w/ mebbe some seafoam & then change oil/filter after letting it idle/rev up to ~1500 rpms???

did you also rule out an exhaust leak by the header?

but, can't say anything about the "marbles-in-a-can" sound; i'd be soo worried about my original SOHC engine if that sound comes about

[redtop91]

The injectors are more like a light "puff puff puff puff" when my timing chain was in its final stages before breakage there was clicking.

[s13redtaz]

SOHC have hydraulic valves, not shimmed valves of the DOHC engine...

hopefully, you can try to de-varnish the buildup of those sticky valves... w/ mebbe some seafoam & then change oil/filter after letting it idle/rev up to ~1500 rpms???

did you also rule out an exhaust leak by the header?

but, can't say anything about the "marbles-in-a-can" sound; i'd be soo worried about my original SOHC engine if that sound comes about

i learn something new everyday

[sliders]

pull your valve cover to check chain ,check for tension on chain, can slap against front cover,tensioner could be losing prime when you rev an old motor like and could be loosing prime in tensioner and the hydraulic rockers,could also be and exhaust leak

[Wyldefreak]

An exhaust leak would make a clicking noise? I'm gonna have the timing checked either tomorrow or the next day. If that's off should I adjust the timing or should I try using Sea-foam and a heavier oil first? Also, do any of you know how long to run Sea-foam in your oil for until you should change it? Like is it 5 or 10 minutes or a day?

[benemorius]

First, check your oil.

Second, replace your oil pump.

The marbles in a can is your timing chain. It is loose and rattling around due to low or no oil pressure. The clicking is your valve lifters tapping, again from low or no oil pressure. The chain tensioner and lifters are both operated by oil pressure.

The obd-II port you're looking for won't be found on your car. You have obd-I and the port is proprietary. (if you must know, it's loosely tucked up under the dash panel by the fuse box) Search the forum for instructions on how to check the codes.

Don't bother checking the timing with the chain so loose. Sort that out then set the timing.

You don't want to seafoam the oil until you figure out what happened to your oil pressure. Your engine is already taking enough of a beating as it is.

A small exhaust leak can make a clicking noise under the right circumstances. Those circumstances almost always involve getting on the throttle, so if you get the clicking at idle you can pretty much rule out exhaust leaks.

EDIT: I said glove box; I meant fuse box
Modified by benemorius at 1:18 PM 11/28/2006

[Wyldefreak]

Would installing an oil gauge be a good idea then? If so where can I get an aftermarket oil pressure sender. Since, I know that the stock on is a switch, i need one that will actually give me a reading. Also, if it is because I'm not getting oil to those parts, couldn't it just be that they are clogged up and that they need to be cleaned, And that maybe the pump is fine. Wouldn't something like SEAfoam fix that by clearing it out, or do any of you know how to test my oil pump to see if it's working properly?

[Wyldefreak]

I know where the port is, we just don't have the right connected for it at my shop.

[benemorius]

Having an oil pressure gauge is never a bad idea.

It's possible, but highly unlikely that both your chain tensioner and valve lifters started acting up together. Since it's such an easy job on that engine and since it has so many miles on it anyway, I'd recommend that you just go ahead and replace the pump. At the very least, quit driving it until you figure out what's going on.

Seafoam will help clean out grime, but thinning your oil and running the engine for a while is hardly something you want to do when you have signs of a bad oil pump to begin with.

[ricebike]

pump rarely goes...

it's probably the plastic chunks of the timing chain guides that are broken up & pluggin the oil pump pickup screen inside the oil pan...

i say check that 1st, then go ahead w/ the rest of the members' suggestions

[Wyldefreak]

If I was getting no oil pressure for whatever reason (plastic chunks plugging up the pick up or just grime and **** plugging up in other areas wouldn't my oil light come on?

[180fan]

if there's stuff blocking the screen it could trip the oil light, but not always. usually if the oil light comes on, it's already too late. you could have low oil pressure which wouldn't trip the oil light.

[benemorius]

I think the light comes on below 2 or 3 psi, while anything below around 10 is bad.

pump rarely goes...

it's probably the plastic chunks of the timing chain guides that are broken up & pluggin the oil pump pickup screen inside the oil pan...

i say check that 1st, then go ahead w/ the rest of the members' suggestions

It's a kae.

[ISUJinX]

pump rarely goes...

it's probably the plastic chunks of the timing chain guides that are broken up & pluggin the oil pump pickup screen inside the oil pan...

i say check that 1st, then go ahead w/ the rest of the members' suggestions

I agree. Check the pickup screen for plastic chunks. From the sounds of it, all your problems are caused by low oil pressure, like everyone else has said. And seafoam is wonderful stuff... but it does thin oil so make sure you have the pressure problem fixed first.

[gregz0r]

hi im a new member first time poster. i have the same noise coming from my '90. i've narrowed it down from all your suggestions about oil pressure to be either the valve guides are worn or the valve springs are fatigued. i already know the oil pump, timing chain tensioner, chain guides and oil passageways are fine because i just recently torn down and completely rebuilt my engine with brand new parts. but after all that it still makes that annoying ticking noise. and like wyldefreak it is intermediate but once it starts it doesn't stop.

[sleeper07]

soo for the ka24e there is no chain guides? So what can be the cause of the noise? Because i just bought a head gasket for my car and im not sure what i should do because peolpe are telling me to take off timing chain guides . . . .

[redtop91]

I think its time to take it to a certified mechanic. No one will bash you for it.... Or at least I won't....and although they might charge you out the a$$ MOST will give you sound advice and resolve the problem.

[Wyldefreak]

well now this problem is basically obsolete, I now have a new problem. a very loud clunking noise that screams ROD KNOCK. Time to pull the oil pan and replace that bearing.

[ORL240]

Wow no 1 mentiond spun bearing.Rattle can = spun bearingRod knock may come from spun bearing.Lack of oil pressure will cause spun bearing.Hate to break it 2 u, start lookin for a reputable machine shop. Have em throw in fresh main and rod bearings and might as well refresh piston rings and give the cylinders a honing while ur at it. Lookin at around $500 from decent machine shop. Just went thru this on my de.Hope this helps.