When mine started to die, it didn't turn the charge/bat light on. Apparently, only certain faults in the charging system will turn the light on.
If you've got a digital test meter (or "DMM"), you can use it to test your alternator by measuring the battery voltage with the engine idling and the headlights on. A good alternator will keep the battery voltage in the high 13's to low 14's. An alternator that's limping along will have trouble hitting 13 unless the engine is revved. A dead alternator will allow the battery voltage to sag below 12.7.
sstroudwku wrote:The AC current the alternator produces before converting could be rippling, when it does it can effect things like that.
Mine developed a very noticeable whine that varied with engine speed, due to one or more diodes failing in it. Dead diode = no DC current being produced at some point during every revolution the alternator made, so there was a huge amount of ripple present.
Since the battery is what filters out the normal amount of DC ripple produced by a healthy alternator, having a lot of extra ripple is also hard on the battery.