Backyard mounting kits rb25det+s13 any ideas?

[mattleegee]

I kinda snuck this question into someone thread already and figured i would start a new thread and see who i can find.

Here is a question maybe someone will have the answer:Anyone that has used the rb25det engine mounts and crossmember know how much room is needed to clear the hood on the s13? (read on....)

Purpose: I wanted to use the factory intake manifold, and save as much as possible mounting the engine

Situation:I have a r33 crossmembers13rb25detr33 motor mounts/brackets(i also still have the old greasy beat up s13 ka crossmember/mounts)

I also have access to a drill, milling machine, and saw. I do also have 6061 and 7075 stock for

Purpose v2:Wanted to move engine back as far as i canAnd lower it enough to clear intake collector/throttle body

Ideas:Bracket mount for transmission (i dont want to worry about this now i will worry about this when its time

Either a spacer inbetween the crossmember and frame i was thinking to lower, then a small bracket or redrilled holes in cross member to move it back

I havent thought yet about using the ka crossmember, or seeing if i can remake the actual motor mounts

Shoot me some ideas and thank you

[wawazat8402]

I wouldnt recommend just spacing the xmember down. That will have an adverse effect on all of your suspension geometry in the front of the car.

[BoostFab]

if you have access to the milling machine and/or welder; you can build an adapters that bolts onto the ka crossmember and use the rb's motor mount bracket.

[mattleegee]

Yes i do have access to milling machine and a welder, well welder is away from car but i can just bring parts in

So i should use the KA crossmember and not RB crossmember (i have both) does the KA sit lower? or?

Anyone know how much room is needed to be made to clear the hood?

To the first response i heard it would only be good to lower and move back for the suspension geomertry, i went into the local shop and they where showing me how they mover a r34 way back to keep the clutch fan and have clearance for a big radiator, this process has been used over and over, im going in again on Sat to spend the day there and get some mock ups but i know there are lots of RB's owners on here that have experiance in this

[wawazat8402]

Youre right, it is good to keep the weight of the engine as low and far back as you can. However, shimming the x-member will affect every piece of your front suspension. That is not the correct way to get the engine lower.

[Coolwhip]

yea, would not recommend shimming the cross member at all. Reasons mentioned above.

Moving it further back and lower is all great. An issue you have not addressed in any of your posts are whats on the bottom of the engine. "The sump".

Consider a few problems here. Move the engine TOO far down, and you'll foul the pan against the cross member. Move the engine too far down, and your oil pan will protrude even lower under the car making it vulnerable to damage.

Move the engine far enough back and you'll see issues with the sump fouling the crossmember as well.

A neat trick here would be a rear sump and pick up setup, would benefit in numerous ways.

GL

[mattleegee]

Nice guys, i didnt even think about the suspension

im just going to set it in and see what everything looks like to see what can be done, or maybe give in and just buy the manifold...

[240z4u]

Your really putting too much thought into this. Stick the motor in the car hanging from a hoist and it becomes clear.

I have done two set of motor mounts. One set lowered the motor so there was very little clearance between the cross member and pan. Fine and dandy, but as Coolwhip said.. I banged my pan on the ground HARD one time. That was enough for me to move the motor up and have the bottom of the pan flush with the cross member. There is also enough room, barely, to sneak the power steering rack out.

I used 2x2 heavy box tubing and cut the contour to match the mounting pad of the KA motor. Welded it up, put a gusset on it and used (I think) rb26dett isolators. IMO use chevy isolators or something super easy to get and cheap.

This left one problem, which isnt a problem... the oil drain for the turbo is a tight squeeze. If I were to do it again, I would cut most of the mounting pad off of the crossmember and build back to the mounts. This would leave less stuff to interfere. Space is at a premium (unless you do top mount).

This was in an S14. Never have had problems with IM fitment.

[Coolwhip]

Good call

...as well, just wait till you see what I have in store :P

[mattleegee]

Im unsure which ebay kit your talking aboutTophat has one for $299 and thats it on eBay

then there is Syko up to $585

[mattleegee]

Your really putting too much thought into this. Stick the motor in the car hanging from a hoist and it becomes clear.

I have done two set of motor mounts. One set lowered the motor so there was very little clearance between the cross member and pan. Fine and dandy, but as Coolwhip said.. I banged my pan on the ground HARD one time. That was enough for me to move the motor up and have the bottom of the pan flush with the cross member. There is also enough room, barely, to sneak the power steering rack out.

I used 2x2 heavy box tubing and cut the contour to match the mounting pad of the KA motor. Welded it up, put a gusset on it and used (I think) rb26dett isolators. IMO use chevy isolators or something super easy to get and cheap.

This left one problem, which isnt a problem... the oil drain for the turbo is a tight squeeze. If I were to do it again, I would cut most of the mounting pad off of the crossmember and build back to the mounts. This would leave less stuff to interfere. Space is at a premium (unless you do top mount).

This was in an S14. Never have had problems with IM fitment.

yes i have probably put to much thought, just using my down time to think about it, i got the motor all torn apart and putting new crap in it so im trying not to dangle it to much hahathis is going s13 and i heard the intake manifold did not clear the hood on the s13, point for this thread to see what i can find out ideas for...

[Flamereka]

Why not just buy a kit. Measure them and make a CAD file then use a CNC machine and cut them out. I happen to have a CNC machine and a Lathe so if you happen to make a cad file for either send it my way. I did it the cheap way using r32 crossmember, and r32 transmission mount. It fit fine, and transmission mount I just reversed and all holes lined up. I do have a problem with hood clearance but I think it due to huge HKS BOV on hot pipe. As far as sway bar clearance I cut out a 1/4" plate out of aluminum as a spacer and bought 2 larger bolts for the swaybar. I had 2 new swaybar brackets and hard bushings from my dads 280z he didn't need and they fit perfect. I have a little less then 1/4" clearance between swaybar and oil pan. On another note when I out car into first gear shifter hits console so it occasionally pops out. But if you slot holes in console and push forward and cut transmission hole opening you are all good. I was seeing how cheap I could do the swap. I think I need to splurge now though as Cold start problem is giving me hell.

[mattleegee]

i was thinking about copying a mount but i didnt want to buy it in the first place, i dont really deal with CAD i deal with the milling machine and just setting my xyz's

i might just buy the manifold so all i have to worry about is moving the engine back, which i will just play with the crossmember

[BoostFab]

take into consideration for when the motor isolator/mount flex and be sure to allocate some space for movement or otherwise your oil pan will be crushed against the cross-member.