back from the shop...grinding when the clutch is in?

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

Okay so, $1500 later, I have a new timing chain and a new clutch. yuck. anyway, as i left the mechanic today, i noticed it was making this weird grinding noise whenever the clutch was engaged. car runs and drives fine, but the noise was weirding me out so i asked the guy. he mumbled something about hoping the clutch didnt screw up the transmission bearings when it blew up, but he told me to drive it for a few days and if it didnt get better, bring it back.

anybody have any thoughts on this? =(

also, off topic but im putting in a new o2 sensor, fuel filter, plugs, and wires in the next couple days. anything i need to know about any of them? o2 sensor especially. thanks =)

Post by **pacman88** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

Can't help with the transmission, but on the other things yes . The F/F you need to relieve the pressure in the lines. The O2 sensor is a direct swap, nothing magical there, samw with plugs and wires.

Post by **KRUZNBY** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

Sounds like it could be a throw out bearing?

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

throw out bearing? =/ esplain to me?

Post by **Chris85310** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

Please tell me they replaced the throwout bearing when they replaced the clutch!

Any reputable mechanic should have at least suggested you replace it while the transmission is out.

Check the recipt and see if it was indeed replaced or not.

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

he's a good mechanic...japanese import specialist, and he seems to know what he's doing. =/ but no, nothing like that on the receipt. $189.95 for the clutch assembly, $15.95 for shop supplies, and $300 for labor. they do have a 'warranty' on their parts and labor though... and since it didnt grind BEFORE he replaced the clutch, couldnt that fall under the warranty heading? =/ anyway. im gonna bring it back in a few days, as per his request, if it doesnt stop grinding.

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

yep, it falls under their warranty heading? can bring it back w/in their warranty period (keep an eye on the date of expiration: 90 days?)

clutch assembly implies that the throwout bearing was in thurr... dunno about pilot bushing though...

02 sensor: easier to use a special socket if u can't get a regular wrench on it d/t no room to move...

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

thanks rice =D yeah its 90 days. the only reason it wouldnt be in there is if i destroyed this along with the clutch...and its something different (transmission?)

i used a regular wrench and my fingers for the o2. =) changed plugs, wires, o2 sensor, and fuel filter yesterday. STILL have my idle/stalling problem. what could it be?

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

<shrugs> there's alot of things that you'll have to run thru from checking the various idle speed controls ,like MAF <see search/sticky/articles on the common ones> that u can clean the valves/electrical plugs... hmm mebbe u can tell the mechanic that did the timing chain to recheck the timing while it's back in the shop for that clutch problem... unless this idle/stalling problem was before the job.

check grounds/replace battery cables if needed (i've seen alot of weird problems d/t poor grounds, esp to the battery)

clean throttle body/valve...

vaccuum hoses...

check ECU for trouble codes...

lotsa stuff, but w/ the onset of some List members putting the FSMs on their servers, U can fumble through it & knock it out 1-by-1. & in the end, u will know your car better than the mechanic :P

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

i actually own an FSM. its helpful for things like torque tightening numbers. otherwise, its not all that useful in a practical sense. especially if you dont have one of those diagnostic computers. all you have is a stupid ECU led that you have to pull out the damn passenger kickpanel and some PITA bolts to even see.

yeah the idle/stalling was a problem months before the clutch. it got to the point where it was stalling at every light and i had to keep it revved constantly, so i took out the AIV. that fixed it for about a month, and now its been coming back. getting worse again.

EDIT: oh yeah and it has a new MAFS in it too (one of my mechanics suggestions)

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

agh omg what happened to the forums. :< anyway, to continue where we left off... i tried following some of those diagnostic things in the fsm just now. question: how the HELL are you supposed to disconnect the AAC harness? let alone while the engine is running! there's ZERO room back there, i cant even fit a wrench back there to try and get it off.

Post by **Stuntman240** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

long *** pair of grabbing(angled needle nose)pliers. like over a foot long.

Post by **nissandrift** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

Next time you need work done check out Nisstech in Raleigh, all there guys were former nissan techs. If I had known you needed an O2 sensor I had another one lying around the house. Also with the ECU you can take the brackets off, and flip it around with it all the wires still hooked up.

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

hmm, another 'possible' problem to your stallin': clogged/old catalytic converter causing too much back pressure. can some1 else confirm this?

there's an expensive tool that can thread into the 02 sensor hole in exh manifold that would check this out... autozone/advance auto parts should have that added to their free tool loan program, but alas...

our OBD I cars came w/ a black connector by the d/s fuse panel called the "consult port" which is almost similar to the OBDII's connector in hooking it up to a pc interface to see what's your ECU is reading from the sensors...

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

thanks drift it was already ordered though anyway. =)

sounds like another valid possibility rice. i dont have an obd I reader though... so i dunno what to do. =/

Post by **nissandrift** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

Autozone can read the diagnostic on OBD1, and I had a clogged Cat on my last 240. If thats the case talk to Urban imports about a test pipe, I beleive their 60 dollars.

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

didn't know they have obdI readers; thought only dealers have this to attach to the 'consult port'

nissandrift, i went to autozone & they said they'll do OBDII cars only since it only requires to plug the scanner in & reading the codes. I didn't know some stores will volunteer to unscrew the pass side kick panel, unbolt the ECU, turn it around, then twiddle w/ the screws to set the LEDs to flash out the codes... too much work for them <so he said>.

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

sorry i forgot to mention on this thread that the stalling is (at least temporarily) fixed. i found a completely disconnected intake hose. go figure. =/

the clutch grinding is still there though.. gonna take it to be looked at sometime this week. it only grinds during the first 5 or so minutes of being turned on, and even then not consistently.

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

hmm, grinding while cold/warms up-then ok... 1st & easiest check would be the transmission gear oil level/ think of a change to full synthetic oil in the transmission to compensate for some worn/wearing out synchros...

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

its not just some worn out syncros i dont think. like, you put the clutch in and its like GNNRNNRNNRGNNRNNRNNRNNRNRN until you let the clutch out, but it still shifts just as easily into any gear. the noise is quite unpleasant. i'd be happy to go full synthetic though if that turns out to be the case. thanks for the suggestion =)

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

gah, i was wrong then...bring it back to the mech ASAP! he'll have to drop the transmission to see what is up! I recommend getting the clutch fork pivot ball from one of our sponsors to the left <spl> & let him do the clutch damper bypass as well if he does haveta take things apart again.

Post by **Yorb** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

what would a clutch fork pivot ball do? damper bypass? i dont know anything about the clutch =/

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:16 pm

spl's is just a stronger point @ which the clutch fork rides on...check out his site.

i saw 1 list member having a bad day after putting in a new clutch kit & that part broke on him afterwards... $H!T, he had to take down his transmission to do the job over again.

think seesaw... one end is the slave cylinder, pivot ball is the fulcrum, other end of the clutch fork is the throwout bearin'

http://www.240sx.org/links/ins...x.htm

searched about the other subject, but had to go outta these forums for the answer (sorry NICO; hmm the other forums are looking good as well...gah)

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=58077

http://www.zeroyon.com/pics/installs/cl ... nemod.html

back from the shop...grinding when the clutch is in?

back from the shop...grinding when the clutch is in?

Nissan Forums

Infiniti Forums

Datsun Forums

Technical Forums

Classifieds / Marketplace

Nissan Motorsports

General Forums