Back from shop, multiple issues!! BOV/ WG lines, idle

[shanerman]

ok, so i just got my car back from the shop after being there forever, and i don't even wanna start tryin to clean up these guys' loose ends. for starters, the BOV is not working and i am hearing chatter/ fluttering really bad at any RPM that builds boost. i looked at the hoses and it just seems like it's wrong. there is a hose from the BOV that T's off to both the wastegate and the cold pipe right before the Throttle body. i tried adjusting the top of the BOV and it doesn't do anything and the flutter is getting on my nerves cuz i don't wanna ruin anything!!! I would take pics right now but its late, i'm just sick of searching and not getting any direct answers. I have an s14 motor and FMIC with what looks like a stock EVO BOV... i'm kinda disgusted at how my swap was done and how much i paid for it actually... - other problems is i have a crappy idle that was at 2500 rpms, and after moving the TPS it now lops between 1300-1800... because everytime i unplugged the TPS it would react. i also just noticed today that there are two vacuum hoses right below the TB that looks like he was trying to connect to each other, and the hose he used is kinked and blocked!! ? i will replace ASAP anyway hoping it will fix my idle?, but the real issue here is my vacuum/boost hoses!! i am thinking i just need the direct line from BOV to cold pipe(vacuum), and wastegate to a nipple on hot pipe(boost) after turbo??? is this correct? i am lost because most people have s13 setups and wanna be sure.. and i am dead tired. i will post pics in the morning. sorry for the length and thanks for help because homeboy from shop pissed me off with this mess... i have other issues but this is the big one right here so please !!!!

[themadscientist]

Of course, you reported his shoddy work to the better business bureau.

Probably not.

The hoses are easy.

There should be a nipple on the throttle body AFTER the throttle plate. That is manifold pressure. That goes to the BOV. The idea is when the throttle is closed, the BOV diaphragm sees vacuum and pipe pressure pushes it open. Your gate can reference from where it is plugged in now. Not as good as a manifold reference but acceptable.

The high idle is a trick to hide something wrong. Turn up the idle high enough and anything can run.

You should have a stepping idle control on the manifold. Make sure it's hooked up and working. Put a screwdriver handle to your ear and put the tip on the valve. You should hear the solenoid going.

[shanerman]

i am going to report him.... but i've only had the car two days.. so i really appreciate your help. i knew somethin was up with the hoses cuz i know that flutterin is bad. he had finished all the work and was waiting for the ecu to show up.... then once it did, he plugs it in, calls me up and says its ready. righhhht. BTW it was Trevor at Trevtec in las vegas. HIGHLY UNIMPRESSED. filing BBB report as we speak.but thanks for the info... so do i hook up the wastegate alone on my hot pipe?? like thread a nipple on or something? cuz i know the bov and wastegate should not have the same air pressure signal... and i'm pretty sure thats what i read from others.but thanks again, i have been messing with the screw that controls idle, but it would only take it higher, so i think i gotta pull out my multimeter and check that tps and make sure its not effed... cuz i unplug it now and it goes back to 2500. but i'm gonna go check with a screwdriver stethoscope style and see whats up... thanks again man i'm gettin this.

[sr20det0821]

what you wanna do is take your hot pipe drill a hole, so you can put a fitting on for the hose coming from the wastegate. the blow-off valve should have its own vacuum source coming from the top of the throttle body. and the other vacuum line coming from the top of the throttle body should be going to you fuel pressure regulator. that takes care of all your vacuum lines there buddy.

[J240sx]

If you dont feel like drilling a hole in your ic piping you could buy a quick tap from frsport. Thats what i did.

[shift_SRDETuser]

or just get a boost controller

[themadscientist]

A boost controller still needs a reference.

[shanerman]

thanks you guys. i was really worried and now i feel much better i do need a boost controller and gauge too. thanks again

[SxMachine]

Take it 2 a reputable shop get a 2nd opinion just 2 have some proof that a sh*t shop jackd up ya swap. Report him, then attempt to get some money back.