ST240 wrote:Wicked man thanks for the reply! I have another Q. I'm seriously toying with the idea of going back to clutch fan too. You arent running a shroud at all?? You said yours is custom. What exactly does that mean? I ditched my RB20 clutch fan and shroud long long ago, and I think tracking down another might be hard.

I inverted the clutch 180 degrees on the fan then shimmed it with 4 washers (one per screw), after that I had to slightly trim/shave the edges of the fan blade so it would clear the base of the radiator. I am running a fluidyne rad too, the stock one would fit without issues. Also no fan shroud either, my coolant temps stay nice and cool even after a long ~140-150mph pull on a hot day (80+ deg) the temps only rise about 10 degrees then cool back down after about 30 seconds.

Whats nice is the clutch fan actually draws air down the length of the block as well, if you put your hand by the firewall when the car is at idle you can actually feel air passing over it. The clutch fan and the swirl pot are probably my best mods on the car. There was nothing worse than a fussy pusher setup and constantly battling coolant temps.

lol and everyone laughed when i went back to a clutch fan.

Carl H wrote:lol and everyone laughed when i went back to a clutch fan.

No Way! I never laughed, just took me a couple years to figure out how to make it fit without lots of cutting. I could care less if it steals a few ponies, riding cool wins any day. A lot of people who do see my engine bay comment on the clutch fan and say I should go to electric... little do they know.

Awesome shocker thanks a ton. And the temps are ok on hot days at a standstill?

ST240 wrote:Awesome shocker thanks a ton. And the temps are ok on hot days at a standstill?

Oh yeah they sure are, keep in mind when its nice here and not raining my 240 is my daily, I drive 60+ miles a day for work and school. My car is no garage p****.

Does your 6765 have billet compressor wheel?

RRRRB wrote:Does your 6765 have billet compressor wheel?

No its the old cast wheel, and it has some damage to the fins on the turbine from a previous engine death.. so its not even as efficient as it should be IMO...

Did some upgrades/welding this weekend. I've recently started learning to tig weld on an old lincoln that my buddy just bought. We both are learning together and honestly its a ton of fun! I've got a few hours of seat time and improving.. but have a long way to go.

Here is what I made over the weekend.

Drive shaft loop for the 240, made it out of 0.25" x 2" 304 stainless, ran 3 passes on the top piece and a larger single pass both sides on the bottom. I'm finding myself starting out a little too hot, honestly the hardest part is getting the bead established between both pieces of metal, after that its decently smooth granted I don't tip out, or my rod gets stuck or something...





Then my buddy and I made a coolant over flow can out of scrap aluminum. I'll just say it holds coolant well and its sealed.. but the welds are rough in some areas. I found myself doing much better after I welded the first cap on, sort of got a feel of how to move the torch around a tight radius.




I'm decently happy with myself, I've got a lot more to learn and that's only done through more seat time. More small little projects to come that I'm looking forward to! This week my project is operation clean up my interior. I've got lots of rattles I'm killing and just some of the random factory s*** that looks bad when gutted. I also want to go back over and re-polish sections of my cage that have started to rust..

fun being able to do small little projects like this... having a Tig is so handy isnt it...

RRRRB wrote:fun being able to do small little projects like this... having a Tig is so handy isnt it...

Hell Yeah it is! Made an aluminum catch can on Friday for my cousins 408 SN95, he has brakes now (vac canister/booster could be hooked up) and keeps oil out of his carb!

Another UPDATE! I got together with my buddy and tuner Kyle @ DeiPro tuning last weekend and cracked the boost up to 21-22ish psi on pump 93. Car feels really nice at that level and I feel pretty comfortable running it there, it just rips through the gears.

I had planned for a track day yesterday, and unfortunately my car started making some nasty nasty creaking/rotational noises on Wednesday so I spent all of Thursday and part of Friday diagnosing my problem... went over all my front suspension(which is basically all brand new), cleaned my coilovers, and pillow balls, lubed everything that needs it. Nasty creak was still there on the driver side... ended up as a last ditch effort checking my wheel bearing, so I swapped my right and left hubs around and the noise moved to the right side with the swap... BINGO! wheel bearing.. Keep in mind this is the 3rd wheel bearing I've smoked in the last ~5k miles. This last one was a Timken and it lasted about 2k miles... after closer inspection a friend of mine noticed wear marks on the inside of the hub where the outer bearing racing is supposed to sit and be stationary at… Looks like the hub is culrip leading to pre-mature bearing carnage.. so luckily Advanced Auto had the hook up and got my a bearing by 8:00 a.m. sat morning. I peened the inside of the hub and added green loctite and put the new bearing in.. by 9:00 a.m. I was on my way 60 miles north to Thompson Raceway park..

I had one goal for this trip and that was 130+ mph trap speed.. I ended up with much more than that! After my first two passes, 1st one was a total mess.. slipped the clutch too long, and went from 2nd to 5th and missed 3rd gear 3 times in my panic to get my s*** back together.. 2nd pass, slipped the clutch less, hooked and cut a 1.90 60’ and clicked off a [email protected]! Woo got my 130mph trap and my new personal best time.. Last pass I decided to slip my clutch even less and get WOT faster, dropped my ET streets to 15 psi and click off this pass:



I’m super happy with the car and how it’s currently setup, it’s tough to ask for much more. I’m running megan coilovers which are by no means designed for straight-line launches, no LC or 2 step to aid me.. I was soo happy to pull off a run like that.
Here is the vid of the pass as well!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEx9Se8p3i0[/youtube]

Had a nice easy drive home and was just high on life. Car will be left as it is for a while and I’m going to spend time cleaning up the interior more along with the engine bay.

man, thats awesome for pump gas, and stock cams, im gonna be irritated if my setup doesnt do this.. as i have alot of money into the head!

you ever weigh the car?

awesome runs, id be stoked too!

NICE 10sec pass on pump.

Street tuned or did you put it on the dyno? Dyno sheet wanted!

Thanks guys.

Car weights 2920 fully loaded, it gained about 180 lbs with the cage, 30 swap and single conversion.

It was street tuned so take my car race weight 3100lbs with me in it and my mph its over 550whp..

awesome. just awesome.

Nice pass!

Did some more upgrading/cleaning up last weekend as well as this past weekend. After a 1/4 mile pull at the very end my car was coughing up a few drops of oil.. so I decided it was best to get a catch can made to keep any pushed out oil off the track.

I considered retro fitting an old moroso catch can.. but after remaking my coil bracket to clear up space for it I felt it was best to make my own for a cleaner one off fit. Now I'm still pretty new to Tig welding but definitely improving quite a bit, overall I was pretty happy with how the can came out, and it holds 1 quart of oil (tested with water - no leaks WOO!). I welded -12 an bungs onto the factor 90 degree fittings instead of using a bulkhead style and attached black nylon hose. Maybe in the future I'll cut off the one vent that I'm not using and weld it up smooth for a cleaner look.. but for now its all good.





I checked the can this weekend and there is nothing in it except for a tiny tiny hue of gold film from oil vapors.. I drove it pretty hard a few days this week too, so I'm happy!

I also found a vac leak that apparently I've had a for a long while on my fuel rail. My #4 injector was not seated properly and its seal was cocked and no where near sealing... I ordered up some new seals from FIC and installed them this weekend fixing the vac/fuel leak. What a difference such a tiny leak makes once its sealed. The car drives smoother, idles better, and honestly feels better under boost now...

Waiting for a dyno day back at Smokeys Dyno (same placed I baselined my car last year) to see what it makes.. might even get back on a track before then too. For now back to driving (after this late spring snow storms finished up..)

looking good and glad to see ur car doing well. one suggestion: i used to have my catch can in that location. it made the car stink like gas/exhaust at the track. multiple high rpm runs/turning/g-forces/etc for 20-30 min with the windows down eventually made me kinda nauseous. i moved it to the front by the air filter and that seemed to help despite still being an open catch can setup. this year i decided to go with a sealed catch can with pre-turbo vacuum source. should be better for fumes and also pull some vacuum on the crankcase (slight, but probably negligible power increase). we'll see how that goes, but that was my "catch can" progression story lol. might be worth looking into a sealed system imo.

Thanks Gawd.

I haven't noticed anything yet as far as fumes, I mean.. my car is open gate and generally has a small fuel/carbon smell to it as is. I am starting to look for a spare set of R33 wheels to put some track tires on so I can do a circuit or two this summer.. I'm feeling that the car is running well enough and getting reliable enough for some extended punishment that a road course would through at it.

As far as routing it to pull a vac/venturi effect off the intake I’m avoiding it. I really do not want blow by gases re-entering my intake to get re-burnt. I’m pushing pump gas on this car and would rather not have a pre-heated “lesser quality” of air reentering my intake. If I did anything it would be to hook it up to my exhaust to get dumped out. I will see how It works, I do know your car was having much bigger issues pushing oil out of the breathers than I see with mine, I know you fixed all/most of it with the added valve cover baffles. That’s something I’d consider making and adding if it comes to that. I do appreciate the input and feedback from your experiences.

you could also stuff the catch can with stainless steel wool to help condense vapour that builds up...done thing on a few cars now with good results.

Carl H wrote:you could also stuff the catch can with stainless steel wool to help condense vapour that builds up...done thing on a few cars now with good results.

This works, i took apart my rb26 valve covers and put in the stainless scrub pads...and i dont even use a catch can so far... havent really cranked the boost yet though

any updates on this car..

Hello Again All..

Updates are it still runs, I drove it to work today actually.. it developed a gas tank leak last summer and started to push a little more oil than I cared for it to so I parked it without much further investigation. I also bought a house last year and am currently working on getting married so I have been busy with other priorities along with work. That leaves the car on the back burner. (my house has a 10 car garage!! 6 or 7 cars comfortably if empty - working to get it finished )

Early this spring I did a compression test, everything thing came out pretty well 150-165 psi.. so my tuner and I said F it drive it.. turned to boost down to 16-17 lbs, Changed the oil and that really seemed to help with the blow by. I just changed drained the catch can it had about 1 pt of oil in it from ~700 or so decently hard miles over the past few months.

I just got a gas tank for it last week, cleaned it up and painted it along with installing it. So now I can put a full tank in it (before was only ~ 4 gal before the leak).

Its on the edge of needing a clutch occasionally it slips in 4th. I turned the boost back up to 19-20 lbs for the end of the season, it still rips pretty damn hard on the street. Total mileage on the engine is around 12k miles or so.

No plans for any more track action anytime soon, I might end up hooking in my catch can to my exhaust to try and help aid the blow by issues, we will see. Right now the car is not really a huge priority, more or less something I drive on occasion for some fun. I forgot what its like to get attention from a car, last week a few nice car folks came up at gas station, movie theater ect to ask questions on a. what it was?, b. it sounds nice whats in it? then c. a look of shock when I show them. That always puts a smile on my face to realize there are still people out there that appreciate different things.

I don't have any grand plans for the car at this time other than perhaps a clutch and some minor mods. I will say its nice after many years and engines with issues (for those of you who remember my struggles with the RB's) to have one together for this long that's still pumping away.

10 car garage.......Ballllllin

Do you have any baffling in place inside the valve covers?

I removed the factory baffle plates and put in some stainless steel pot scrubbing mesh pads.. it flows very well and really helps control the oil... I don't run a catch can.. I vent thru 2 -12 hoses right to the ground.. nothing comes out of them, no trace of oil inside or dips hanging from them.

Little thread revival here...

So Shocker, was it worth the pain of getting the 30 to fit in the bay? I've got the Mckinney mount setup in my S13 as well and currently have my 25 out - tossing the idea back and forth between going all out for the 30 or just building my 25. I'm looking for similar horsepower numbers as to what you're outputting but can't decide if the pain of getting a hold of a block and making it fit are worth it in the end. What do you think?

500 hp is easily doable with a built 25..

Only benifits to rb30 at that level is the increase in torque and response..

I will be going RB30 eventually I already have a short block, but my built rb25 has been making good power so it's staying for the time being.

Nice. Yeah those are the two reasons I'd like it but the fitment in the S13 worry me. That and it'll be minimum $1200 more than building my 25. Where'd you find your block RRRRB?

I got my first block from Raw Brokerage quite a while back, they told me it was a series 2 with the flat spot for Tensioner... however it turned out it wasn't, kinda pissed me off.. Over paid for it condidering the fact. Never mentioned it to them so its whatever.. just kinda shady, i called them and asked about what they do for a solution and basicly didnt get any answer from them, probably because they havent dealt with it. Not sure why people praise them so much.

I also have another one i found locally and got a good deal on it so i bought it as well... It is a Series 2 with the correct provisions.

torque is pretty neat.

nice power band is this your RB30 Carl?