Bacardi Build Thread

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
BACARDI_DWB
Posts: 377
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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I was prompted to post my build thread, I need to give a little history before I start with the pictures and stuff.

I originally purchased a Datsun 510 and was planning on throwing a CA18DET in there. Right before I had to leave for a few months on business I had the stock 510 motor blow up. I was in a crunch to have a working vehicle at my place for personal reasons and I had a friend offer to trade me a working 1970 Datsun 521 Pickup truck for a non working 1970 Datsun 510. It took me all of 20 seconds to think about it and I found myself a new owner of the cool little pickup truck.

I cleaned up the truck and it became to be a really good runner with the L20B motor in there. I lusted for more power of course but I hate putting more power into a vehicle that could not handle and had 4 wheel drum brakes with no brake booster. Needless to say it was a little scary coming to a stop. I loved the looks of the truck but I was not very impressed with much else of the truck.

I was inspired by my friend bob who had a project very similar to mine, so i had an idea, actually lots! I wanted to take my truck and make it handle around corners and beable to stop when i wanted it to. I have always known that if you want your project to last a very long time it is sometimes best to use stock OEM components and not fabricated parts. I could of used fabricated brake brackets for the calipers but I would not be completely sure of how long those would last. But if I used stock brackets off of a car produced by a manufacturer I know those would last.

The search was on to find a vehicle that had about the same wheelbase width as my truck and graft over all of the suspension and brake components. My choice was a 1990 Mazda Miata, I got a "roller" (if you can really call it that) for a break neck price of $300 and so the project started....

I do have to admit that the CA18DET was not my first choice to go in the truck because I was pursuaded by many friends to throw a v8 in the truck, there were many nay sayers that said that the motor would not fit between the framerails and be over 50% behind the front wheels. I did show them wrong and then I finally woke up and remembered that I am building the truck to handle and with an iron v8 up front it will handle about as good as a rock tied to the end of a stick. So out went the v8 and in went the CA18DET which I have been accumulating lots of parts for.

I took the frame completely down to nothing, tore off almost everything that was not nessisary like the brackets for the leaf springs, the stock transmission crossmember, worm gear steering, front suspension components and lots of other little stuff. After everything was off I began fabricating and grafting the Miata's front crossmember onto my truck. The requirement was to have the miata's front and rear crossmember onto the truck so I could use its stock suspension components, and beable to upgrade stuff using the miata's wealth of aftermarket parts. I liked this idea because there were no aftermarket brembo brakes for a 1970 Datsun 521 Pickup truck (believe me I have looked).

I live in california, I am not going to sugercoat it, the smog stuff here sucks, and the fact that I am able to put new technology into my old truck without having to smog it excites me in the pants region. I could of purchased a 240sx or a miata and had my fun, but I would have had to deal with smog and that uglyness. Plus, what 240sx can handle like my truck will, make as much power, and still beable to haul a load of gravel (limited of course with the new suspension) or take my quad out to the desert for a weekend of fun?

Well I don't quite have the pictures with me here at work but I am going to save some space here to put them all up. I still have a while before this truck will even see any asphalt but I can tell you that the project is progressing further daily.

Also, my competition that I am building my truck to beat is Z06 corvettes, and vipers. I want to see the faces when they look at my old truck, with a 4 cyclinder, beat them in a straight line, around a corner, and everything else and can still haul my tires and theirs off to the dump. I do have a very soft build cost of wanting to be under $20k when I am said and done.

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 5:25 AM 3/17/2010
Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 9:28 AM 3/17/2010


BACARDI_DWB
Posts: 377
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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1970 Datsun TruckWith 1990 Mazda Miata Running Gear(Note: NTP=Need to Purchase)

CA18DETPauter RodsJE Pistons +.50ARP MainsARP Headstuds (NTP)OEM Oil PumpOEM WaterpumpKnife edged Crank (Cut 10)Lightweight Flywheel6 Puck ClutchMegasquirt (NTP)EDIS 4 (NTP)Stock InjectorsStaged Supplemental 550 injectors in offset (NTP)AMS Surge Tank with walbro (NTP)Relocated batteryRelocated gas tankRe-enforced FrameUrathane everything

There is alot more that I am forgetting to list.

Here is a list and how I am designing every system of the truck:

FuelI will explain as the fuel flows. Stock fuel tank was moved to the rear of the truck to bring more weight over the rear axle to assist in traction. Fuel will be picked up from here by a low pressure pump and pushed to the AEM Surge Tank. From the surge tank fuel will be pumped to the engine bay, at the engine bay the line will split into two lines to feed two seperate fuel rails, the stock fuel rail will hold stock injectors for daily driving and low boost situations, the other fuel rail will support 550cc injectors to engage at higher boost situations, this scenario will enable nice idle and drivability characteristics while being able to support a high demand for fuel. From the engine bay the fuel will return to the rear and combine back into one line heading to the surge tank. The surge tank will do its job and bleed off excess fuel into the fuel tank.

Engine ManagementEngine Management will be Megasquirt with staged injection using EDIS 4. More to come on this segment

Notes to myself: Megasquirt has come out with a very adaptable boost controller.

Megasquirt has been retrofitted with a bluetooth adaptor so cable is not needed. Small Netbook can be used to tune within distance of the bluetooth range. Power for the bluetooth device is achieved off the pin 9 of the MSII Board

SuspensionAs explained earlier I am using stock miata components, but I will be upgrading the coilovers to lower the truck to have the front crossmember with 5 inches of ground clearance. I will be using BC Coilovers and I am unsure of what Sway bars I will need since my truck is longer than a miata and I am unsure of how much sway I will need. More R&D and testing to follow in that area. I have replaced all suspension components with urathane components, and have moved key items around the frame to assist with a 50/50 weight balance. My truck should weigh about 2100lbs full weight without me in it.

Rear EndThe Stock miata rear end bugged me because It was unable to hold lots of power, and it cost over a grand to have a nice LSD installed. I opted to change my differential to a ford 8.8 irs unit that I got with LSD for cheap. This will allow me to use lots of different size gearing for cheap and beable to replace my clutch type lsd whenever I need for under $200. The downside to this is the mounting bracket which I have decided not to fabricate myself costs $350, and the 8.8 axle to miata hubs are $650. Small cost for long lasting performance.

BrakesI will be using stock brakes and rotors until I can afford better, This is still an amazing improvement over the stock 1970 4 drum brakes which take about 3 pumps to stop.

Turbo / BoostThis is still a grey area, I am still unsure of what manifold style I will be forced to try, but i have a stock manifold to test out my space requirements. I have made two choices, if I can use the stock manifold, I will extrude hone it out and use the turbo from forced performance SR20 20G with a t25 flange. If space requirements insist that I need to have a top mount manifold then I will be using a t3/t04 50 trim from AGP Performance with a .48 ar housing. Notice that I am using small back housing to keep boost coming fast and hard. I do not need to have high RPM to keep my power up since I am extremly light.

ElectricalGrounds, Grounds, Grounds!! I have 3 custom made grounding blocks that are going to completely ground every component of my truck. I have also decided to spend some money on the electrical system to have state of the art components. I am already using weather pak connectors which are very expensive(VERY EXPENSIVE) and I also decided to use the ISIS electrical system that just came out and is VERY cool, I wont waste time here explaining what it is but I suggest if you don't know what it is to google it and see why I have picked it. More information to follow in electrical as I get closer to playing with my multimeter

EngineAhh the almighty engine. Of Course being in the CA forum, I have come to my senses and decided to use my CA18 in my truck. I have described most of the parts but there are a few items that are not covered. I have been studying Floats idea's on how to solve the PCV valve breather assembly and I will be employing his system, along with a few tricks of my own. Along with the oil system, I do plan on agressively attacking the oil issue, I am drilling out the returns on the head and block, installing oil restrictor to the head, bevel the oil galley entrances to allow for easier flow, and fabricating an external oil return from the head to the oil pan. Speaking of the oil pan, careful observers would note that the miata is a rear sump oil pan and the CA18 is a front sump. I will be fabricating my own oil pan with a sump trap door system along with moving the sump rearwards. There of course will be more to follow on the engine.

By the way I am building the motor to support over 500hp, but I will only tune for what I need, realistically I think I will be at about 350hp before I stop tuning for more because there is only so much power that a chasis can take before your just spinning your tires. Roughly calculating it out, 350hp and 2300lbs (truck weight with me in it) that power would put me in low 11's and 10's with an installed driver mod. Plenty fast.

Build CostsThis is a very generalized list and in no way accurate, but I will post the high ticket numbers in here to help me keep below of my soft line of $20k.

Truck 2000Miata 300Urathane Mounts 150Pauter Rods 750JE Piston Engine Kit 1250ARP Main Studs 120CA18DET 1000CA18DET head/manifolds 250Clutch / Flywheel 350Oil Pump 120Water Pump 10Starter 40Knifeedged Crank 120Metal for Fabrication 500Frame Prep/Paint 1208.8 Differential with LSD 120

Total so far 7200 (With the cost of the vehicle)

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 5:37 AM 3/17/2010

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 5:41 AM 3/17/2010

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 10:14 AM 3/18/2010

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 8:18 AM 3/25/2010
Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 2:34 PM 3/30/2010

BACARDI_DWB
Posts: 377
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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BACARDI_DWB
Posts: 377
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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Chasis / Frame Checklist (Not a complete list, but a very good start)

[X] Strip Truck Down[X] Purchase Miata[X] Install Miata Front Crossmember[X] Install Rear Miata Crossmember[X] Fabricate for manual rack and pinion mount[X] Fabricate engine Mounts[X] Fabricate engine Brackets[X] Mount Fuel Tank[X] Graft / Fabricate Rear Coilover Buckets[X] Support Frame[X] Fabricate Tranmission Mounts[X] Fabricate Battery Mount[X] Clearance Front Crossmember for oil pan[X] Finish Welding Frame[X] Strip Paint on Frame[X] Rust Proof Frame[X] Paint Frame[X] Paint / Install Front A-Arms[X] Paint / Refurbish / Install Rack & Pinion[X] Paint Rear Submember[X] Install Rear Submember[X] Install Rear A-Arms[ ] Source Lost Suspension Bolts from Mazda[ ] Fabricate Front SwayBar Mount[ ] Purchase LSD Rebuild ($110 Jegs)[ ] Purchase 4.10 Ring Pinion Gearing ($150 Summit)[ ] Prep and Paint 8.8 Differential[ ] Rebuild 8.8 Differential[ ] Purchase 8.8 Differential Subframe ($350 Boss Frog)[ ] Install 8.8 Differential Subframe[ ] Purchase Axles ($650 Driveshaft Shop)[ ] Purchase Brake Rotors ($80 Rock Auto)[ ] Purchase Brake Pads ($50)[ ] Purchase Stainless Steel Brake Lines ($155 Flying Miata)[ ] Install Axles[ ] Prep / Paint Calipers[ ] Install Brake Rotors / Calipers[ ] Purchase Hard Brake Line / Hardware[ ] Purchase Hydraulic Park Brake ($30 Dansperformanceparts)[ ] Install Brake Line[ ] Purchase Fuel Surge Tank ($360 AMS)[ ] Purchase Fuel Line / Hardware[ ] Install Fuel Hardware

Total Parts Cost: $2000+

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 8:34 AM 3/25/2010

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 10:02 AM 3/26/2010

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 10:04 AM 3/29/2010

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 6:33 AM 3/30/2010

Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 10:31 AM 3/31/2010
Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 5:51 AM 4/13/2010

BACARDI_DWB
Posts: 377
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 5:20 PM 3/26/2010

BACARDI_DWB
Posts: 377
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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yes space again for more pictures

BACARDI_DWB
Posts: 377
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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pictures....

BACARDI_DWB
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Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:44 am

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yes one more time, pictures....

ragenasian
Posts: 981
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 6:09 am
Car: AE86 w/CA18DET

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While you are saving space for pics can I say "Loving the new build thread" these are the builds I like to see.

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ca18detgabby
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ragenasian wrote:While you are saving space for pics can I say "Loving the new build thread" these are the builds I like to see.
for real

makes me happy in my pants for sure

DALAZ_68
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Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

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ca18detgabby wrote:
for real

makes me happy in my pants for sure
i got a chubby reading that ...

BACARDI_DWB
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Enuf happy pants... Those pictures are about up to date with where I am right now. I did take all the parts off the frame so I can finish welding up the final parts and the underside. After that I will be stripping all the paint, then start rustproofing and paint. After the paint I will assemble the chasis and begin the engine work.

Thoughts?

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ca18detgabby
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I love just about everything. So very different and incorperating other vehicles to make the ultimate car is awesome.

I was curious, with all these skills, fabbing why not make you an aireal Atom or something?

also, are you sticking to the stock fuel cell? w/ a miata cell and your fabbing skills, either making your own or just replacing the stock tank w/ the miata tank seems like a smart move. Just curious about that choice?

BACARDI_DWB
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I really thought hard about using the miata fuel cell but I didn't like how it fit in the location that I have chosen. Also the spout where you pump fuel into is in the wrong spot. I could change that but I don't like welding fuel tanks. I like the stock unit because it is simple and fits my needs. Plus I don't have to go out of pocket for purchasing a new fuel cell. Thanks for the kind words and I would build an atom but I like having a truck bed haha

BACARDI_DWB
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I Had to purchase a Head since mine was cracked. It showed up today. My exhaust Manifold also showed up today , I am pretty impressed with the design of the stock ex Mani. I have never seen one before. Hope it fits

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ca18detgabby
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stock manifold is awesome sauce. def the way to go, less you have to go to a different flange.

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float_6969
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Gabby's right. The stock mani is awesome. Get it extrude honed and it will be the BEST T2 flanged, bottom mount manifold you can use. It's mostly agree'd that untouched it's completely fine up to 300HP.

BACARDI_DWB
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With the stock mani ex honed I plan on running the forced performance sr20 td06 20g turbo. I think it will work for my application and it's in the pricerange that I want it to be. I know it sounds big but it makes the power I want at the rpm level that I want. As you can see from my build I plan ever step of the way.

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OM3GA
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Wow awesome!

BACARDI_DWB
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I finished up 99.9% of the welding on my frame yesterday, I have two short beads to run. I also stripped most of the paint, grease, and gunk off of the frame. I am going to finish stripping the paint today, clean and prep the frame and rust proof it today with the hopes of painting it tomorrow. Sunday I hope to throw a coat of clear on it. I can't wait to get off of work!

boost_boy
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Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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Man, I thought I work really hard . Amazing.....Just frickin' amazing.

Dee

BACARDI_DWB
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Thanks Dee,

btw updated pictures on me painting the frame. i got more done than i expected. I was able to strip the frame, rust proof and do one coat of paint. This paint is insane, on the cap it says that if it dry's on your skin, the only way to get it off is time.... found that out the hard way and they are not kidding....

to give you an idea of how much has changed on my frame take a good look at this picture:



the entire front suspension was deleted, if you look at the rear, I re-enforced the rear half, took out the torsion bars, deleted the transmission crossmember and replaced it with a removable one. I installed buckets for the rear and made sure that they were fully supported. Deleted the Spare tire mount and braced up the rear with a heavy duty 1.75"x3.75" 1/4" steel beam.

also deleting the leaf eyeholes was fun
Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 5:30 PM 3/26/2010

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ska69
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Car: 200sx s13 ca18det
Location: Disney Land

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I like where this project is heading keep up the great work

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ska69
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also thanks for the ISIS electric system - sure is something interesting!

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ca18detgabby
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this build just makes me drool

BACARDI_DWB
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Opinion needed:

I have had a few of my friends mention that I need to paint over my frame with a different color. They are saying that gloss black is a little to much.

The truck is going to be painted matte green with matte black accents. The suggestions that I am getting are to paint it a machine grey( my a arms are already that color) or paint it matte black.

This truck is going to be a driver, not a show truck in any means. My thoughts were to paint it with this scheme:

frame: gloss blacktwo tone paint: matte green on bottom, matte black on topbed, engine compartment and behind grill, wheelwells: matte blacka arms and any moving parts: machine greyengine block: gloss blackcam covers: gloss blackintake: gloss blackwheels: inside matte black with a red stripestripe between two tone: red

I know it's hard to picture but even I am thinking now as I am writing this that it may be too much with two different shades of black?

This is kind of the idea of the color scheme that I want to go with:



I want a streetfighter look
Modified by BACARDI_DWB at 6:43 AM 3/28/2010

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ca18detgabby
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I think the glossy looks awesome


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