blackmax23 wrote:Anyone know what the gear ratios are on a 99 auto max? I'd really like to know cuz from a dig, my third gear is about as useful as neutral. No pull at all, and wow is it slow getting into third. Anyone know?
You can find the gear ratios in the FSM or online at one of the many car magazine sites.
The gearing is not the problem. It is the TC (and how the TCM is programmed to initiate the shift at 3k RPM under light acceleration, and at 6.5K under WOT).
All 95-99 autos in stock setups tend to shift rather abruptly from 2nd to 3rd (known as "shift shock") and lazily from 3rd to fourth.
The way to cure it -- and remember, you heard it here first -- is twofold.
First of all, if you are not using a cold-air intake, your engine is being starved of air when it needs it the most (at wide open throttle when 2nd goes into 3rd).
"Starved of air?" You can test out this theory by blocking off the opening to your airbox snorkel. That will, in effect cause the engine to rev hard at all gear changes, but without causing the car to go any faster -- just as if you accidentally put the gear shift into Neutral.
The stock air intake is one of the most inefficient designs I've ever seen, and is the culprit in situaions like this. You can mod the stock intake, like I have, or by a CAI.
Next, change your transmission fluid for full synthetic transmission fluid. Mobil, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are a few of the companies that make them.
Don't flush it if you've never had it done before. If you're not sure, don't do it.
Simply drain out the old fluid and add the new.
I also recommend adding a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix for trannies with more than 90k on them. Nissan and some other people will insist that you should never put any additives in your transmission or engine. some will say never to use any additives. I'd say that's applicable to about 98% of additives.
But Lucas transmission Fix is something different. It is one that I have used for fifteen years, and I credit it with solving a lot of issues with my transmissions and with friends' transmissions.
For example, I added to my 1992 Max at 160k when it started slipping between gears. Lucas got rid of the slippage almost immediately, and I got an additional 143k out of my transmission before 2nd went totally bye-bye.
I drained my 98 I30 and refilled it with Mobil synthetic and Lucas. Ever since then, the shifts have been crisp and without that annoying hesitation going into 3rd.
The final recommendation for you is to reset your ECU with an OBD-II scanner (or go to AutoZone or Advance Auto and they'll do it for free), or leave the battery disconnected overnight. The reason for resetting the ECU is that you are going to teach it when to shift by doing them manually.
The transmission and its sensors adapt to the driver's style of driving. If you accelerate leasurely, then the transmission will shift at 3k or lower for all gears. Likewise, if you like jackrabbit starts and WOT shifts, then you'll be taking it up close to the beginning of the redline. But, it still thinks that you still want to shift it earlier than 6k, and so you get this long, drawn-out shift accompanied by high engine revs.
Now, if you do all of your shifts manually, right at the 6,500 mark, your ECU and TCM will "remember" that.
I know it sounds impossible, but after I had a dead battery replaced, I needed to "train" the transmission allover again.
If you manually upshift before it hits the rev limiter (at 6.5K), it will hold itself in the gear you chose and then upshift on its own.
Short of replacing that problematic torque converter with a different stall speed, this is your best shot at getting the transmission to obey your commands.