Auto to Manual Writeup (5 speed conversion)

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
Neil McTaggart
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (nightkid86)

Postby Neil McTaggart » Mon May 12, 2008 1:05 pm

nightkid86 wrote:Auto to Manual in an OBDII S14 - With Pictures

First off, the big question: This swap cost about $400 - 500 for everything (parts, oil, lube, special tools, wire) if you do it yourself

In this writeup, two different cars were having the conversion done simultaneously. One is Matt’s ’98 starfire blue S14, the other is my ’97 cobalt green S14. The procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. The conversions were carried out in my 2 ½ car garage using jackstands and basic tools. I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. This writeup will be broken down into the following categories:

Parts NeededTools NeededProcedure – Auto RemovalProcedure – Manual InstallWiringResultsECU Swapping

WARNING:Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremly hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. You will need patience. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull.

PARTS NEEDED:5 speed transmission from an S14 (you could try an s13 if you want)5 speed Driveshaft front and rear sections (this may differ if you have ABS/LSD)Flywheel (new or resurfaced)M/T flywheel bolts (A/T bolts are too short)Clutch Kit (Clutch, Throwout bearing, Pressure Plate, alignment tool)Shifter assembly (plate, lower rubber boot, upper leather boot, finisher plate)5 speed CrossmemberClutch Master cylinderClutch Slave cylinderClutch hardlinesClutch rubber line and dampener line (which you may want to remove anyways)Clutch pedal assembly5 Speed Brake pedal assembly or a cut brake pedal (automatic pedal is much larger)Bellhousing bolts for a 5 speed bellhousing (some of the A/T bolts can be reused)Bolts to hold Pressure Plate to Flywheel (same thread as bolts that hold shifter to transmission, but a tad shorter)

TOOLS NEEDED:(Metric)Wrench Set (ratcheting wrenches come in handy, so do abstruction wrenches)Socket Set (with plenty of extensions)Breaker BarsTorque WrenchVice GripsJackstandsFloor JacksScissor Jacks (to help support stuff under the car – you don’t have to fit the big bar under also)Pilot Bearing puller (can be rented at Autozone)Slide Hammer for Pilot Bearing Puller (can be rented at Autozone)LoctiteRTV Gasket MakerPropane Torch to break loose flywheel bolts (can be bought at Autozone)Wire StrippersWire CuttersWire Connectors16 gauge wire (A few different colors - may be able to reuse what you take out of the car)Wire ConnectorsA few friends (Asian ones with small fingers help)Factory Service Manual (can be d/led on some sites)PB BlasterGear Oil 75W90Brake fluid or clutch fluid (same thing)Dremel with cutting bitsPower drill with metal cutting bits Hole Saw 1 3/8th's inchCarb Cleaner (to clean off flywheel)

Procedure – Auto Removal1. Put the car up on jackstands as high as you can get it (you will need to slide the tranny out the bottom), make sure it is not going anywhere – it will be shaken a bit. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt.2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. Remove the console from the car – only a few bolts and it will lift off.3. Remove the 2 harnesses that come out of your carpet and connect to the a/t shifter.4. Remove the Cotter pin holding the A/T shifter to the A/T tranny5. Remove the shifter and all the stuff that comes with it. You will now see the ground through your center console.5 1/2. remove the shifter cable that goes to the ignition, it controls the key release6. Next, take out the driveshaft. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your driveshaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft suport a thick wire X-member that keeps the driveshaft from whipping around if it breaks. Next, remove the bracket that holds the middle of the driveshaft up, and slide out your driveshaft.

7. Next, remove the dust plates from the transmission bellhousing, they are at the very front of the transmission. 8. There are some A/T cooling hardlines that run all over the automatic transmission, and two that run to the radiator. Disconnect these hardlines and pull them out. Don’t be afraid to bend them – you won’t ever use them again. Get them out of your engine bay.9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day). You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench ontop of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. One of the top ones has a recirculation pipe bracket attached to it, the pipe runs down to the transmission – disconnect it and remove the bolt. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter. We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose.11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the crossmember, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the crossmember. At the same time, get as many jacks as you can under the tranny – in a few steps it will come off. Also, there is an exhaust bracket on the tranny you must remove.12. Where you took the dust plates off of the bellhousing earlier, you should be able to look back into the transmission and see some bolts holding the torque converter onto the flywheel – undo these 4 bolts. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pully.Note: the flywheel gets hard to turn when the engine starts a compression stroke.13. After the torque converter is unbolted, the transmission will come loose (if not, you can kick it from the front some) – it will pop off and weighs about 250 – 300 lbs. ( a good bit more than the 5 speed – which means that this is a weight reduction!) Get some of your friends to help with this part. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. Then slowly lower the tranny the rest of the way – you don’t want it to fall to one side and knock out a jackstand 14. This next step is very frustrating. The automatic flywheel is held on by 6 bolts torqued down to about 120 ft/lbs, and your flywheel will try to turn when you try to break these bolts. Brace your flywheel from moving as best you can. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy.15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a ¼ inch out of the crankshaft. This is the A/T adapter bearing –and you don’t want an A/T. To remove the bushing either chisel it out with an air chisel, or dremel (which will take about 30 minutes to an hour) or go rent a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer from autozone and use it (which will take about 20 seconds). note: on my car, the A/T adapter bearing would not budge, and even broke the bearing puller tool. Three hours later with a dremel and lots of broken bits we got the darn bearing out.

Procedure – Manual Install

I did not include what needs to be lubed, so check your FSM for where to put on lithium grease - some parts of the transmission need it, and some (like the clutch disc) will not work if they get greasy.

1. Now you are about halfway done. Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup. Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Once it gets slid in all the way it should not go any further (but it does go pretty far into the crankshaft). Then, push on your manual transmission gasket (it should align itself on some dowels)2. Slide the new flywheel on (there are 2 little holes that line up (on one the flywheel and one on the crankshaft), but nothing actually goes thru them – but we still lined them up) Put back in the flywheel bolts, and torque them down to 100ft/lbs in a crisscross pattern. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over. Clean off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar.3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. Keep the alignemen tool in the clutch and the crankshaft – you will take it off later. Make sure you have the correct side of the clutch facing the flywheel – it should have stamped on it “flywheel side, or transmission side”. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car.4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignement tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Bolt down the pressure plate to the flywheel – there are some dowels on the flywheel that fit into the pressure plate. Everything will be pretty tightly binded together but don’t worry – it needs to be tight so the clutch plate will stay aligned. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out.5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together.5 ½. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you havn’t already.6. Next, it is time to prewire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub ontop of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work.

7. This is the hardest step to do. You now get to stab your 5 speed gearbox into the clutch/pilot bushing. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Next loosen the engine mounts that hold the mount to the body – not the engine to the mount, with these loose, jack up the front of the engine so you have a better approach angle with the transmission. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. Jack the transmission up and slide stab/wrestle/hammer/cuss the transmission to slide onto the pilot bearing/clutch. Easier said then done. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Also, once it is in if it is not perfect, it will not fit on all the way – you may want to try spinning the flywheel to help line everything up. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch. We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the crossmember and bolt the crossmember back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines.8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. Remove the bolts holding that white A/T box thing and move it to the side. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together.

10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about.11. Reinstall the driveshaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to.12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it.13. Resinstall the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot.14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jackstands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time)15. Start your car and see what happens.16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit.17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles)

WiringVisit: http://www.ka24development.com....html for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing.

Results:The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100% swapped yet, but due to some previos-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work.

The car is throwing the following codes:0804 a/t diagnosis communication, i believe i just need to plug my small ecu thing back up on the drivers side 1108 shift solenoid 1201 shift solenoid 1203 overrun switch 1204 tc clutch solenoid, i believe this is the switch on the top of my fender in the engine bay, i should be able to put a resistor and fix that code1205 line pressure 1208 fluid temperature

ECU Swapping:In order to get rid of the CEL (which would have prevented the car from passing OBDII testing when the car is inspected), a Manual ECU was used. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness.

If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?)

If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?)

If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to repin it, follow the link here: http://jimwolftechnology.com/w...D.PDFOnce it is repinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link)

Did you have to change drive shaft? If so, do you know of a good website to find?

__________________If you have any further questions feel free to AIM me at re4dtull or Email me at [email protected]

Modified by nightkid86 at 10:19 AM 7/22/2006

Modified by nightkid86 at 7:35 PM 1/21/2007


babababutler
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Postby babababutler » Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:40 am

anyone in socal san diego specifically want to do this swap on my car i want to do it myself but i really dont have much time i would obviously pay you and id be glad to help as much as i can i have a 93 vert and im sick of this AT

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Zballing
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Re: (babababutler)

Postby Zballing » Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:11 pm

I have a really fun way of getting that pilot bearing out... i tried just using the bearing puller and slide hammer and heat and cutting it and impact hammering but what truly worked best and i wish i had done after the first 10 minutes of cussing at the ****ing thing was to take the good old wirefeed welder out and just inside the bushing weld some better ridges for the bearing puller to grab worked perfect just have to be careful not to weld the thing in there good luck oh and i burned my eyes so there them glasses kiddies....

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Fam0uZ
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Postby Fam0uZ » Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:07 am

Im new here and im doing the A/T to M/T conv. following this write up but i have some questions.

1.what would happen if I dont swap to manual ECU??2. I have a 95 Se which comes with ABS but the driveshaft that i found its a non-ABS is that going to give me any problems? 3.Can i buy the m/t bolt in a hardware store?b/c in miami there are about 12 junkyards and 0 s14 in them lol
Modified by Fam0uZ at 10:35 AM 9/10/2008

teamSleep240
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Re: (180fan)

Postby teamSleep240 » Wed Oct 08, 2008 3:05 am

Is this process the same for an s13?

nep
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pics

Postby nep » Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:41 am

bump, can we get those pics rehosted? this guide was a godsend the first time around, lets keep it maintained!

Zenki4Life
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Postby Zenki4Life » Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:07 pm

Great Thread!

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duece.four.oh.sx
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Re: (Zenki4Life)

Postby duece.four.oh.sx » Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:10 am

sweet
Modified by duece.four.oh.sx at 10:39 PM 3/5/2009

vervemotorsports
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (nightkid86)

Postby vervemotorsports » Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:30 am

great writeup

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EgoManiac77
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Postby EgoManiac77 » Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:18 pm

any idea how much HP a stock 95 ka24de 5 speed trany will hold.

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servili007
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (nightkid86)

Postby servili007 » Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:30 am

oh man looking at this i might have to reconsider getting an auto 240 ><

liquid_cool
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (nightkid86)

Postby liquid_cool » Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:52 am

"Project Car Magazine #10" has this as a step by step guide aswell...and a few other S13 tidbits..great mag to buy monthly..this will help some of ya guys who may be fumbling a bit.

"Project Car Magazine Issue #10"

I in no way work or am afiliated with them or recieve free jack or moneys..{disclaimer}

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Romeo_rus
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Postby Romeo_rus » Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:56 pm

What did u do with sensors or fuses (metal boxes - AT control unit???) which are on the on the way of the clutch pedal?

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driftneil
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Re: (Romeo_rus)

Postby driftneil » Mon May 11, 2009 5:06 pm

Romeo_rus wrote:What did u do with sensors or fuses (metal boxes - AT control unit???) which are on the on the way of the clutch pedal?
Took it out

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95jordan240
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (nightkid86)

Postby 95jordan240 » Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:25 am

nice write up and pics it gives me a good idea of how to go bout it...im just havin one big problem..finding an s14 5speed tranny...

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Pento240sx
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (nightkid86)

Postby Pento240sx » Mon Jun 29, 2009 10:45 am

I'm sorry to bring this up. But can you please fix some of the pictures that are broken. Thank you

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Dazzla
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Postby Dazzla » Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:04 am

bump yea, fixing the broken pics would be awesome!

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matalics14
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Re: (Dazzla)

Postby matalics14 » Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:04 pm

Ok please help me out guys...I have read this thread and know it says that I can use an s13 manual trans on my 96 zenki....the trans comes with its original manual ECU which is a 94 i'm told. Will the manual S13 ECU not work with my 96 S14? I've been researching but would appreciate an answer with some facts...I will be buying this very soon.thanks guys,

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driftneil
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Re: (matalics14)

Postby driftneil » Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:27 pm

No, the s13 ecu will not work. You can use your auto ecu, it will just throw a code or 6. Atleast untill you get a 96 manual ecu

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matalics14
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Re: (driftneil)

Postby matalics14 » Mon Oct 19, 2009 4:48 pm

thanks man, so I can use an ecu from 96-98 as well? I imagine there is no difference right?

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driftneil
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Re: (matalics14)

Postby driftneil » Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:16 pm

You can use any ecu from a 96 up, you will just throw codes on the auto.

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matalics14
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Re: (driftneil)

Postby matalics14 » Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:53 pm

ok thats what I thought...thanks man

fakieSI
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (nightkid86)

Postby fakieSI » Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:27 am

Ok I just got my 1997 240sx and I am really new at the whole nissan thing. I didnt think that it would be to different from hondas but I am begining to find out I was mistaken. The car was originally a auto but was converted. I am throwing several CELs keeping me from passing emissions. I pulled the codes today. Keep in mind I know the guy did one of those stupid egr deletes so I know thats what half of these are for. I am currently hunting down everything I need to fix that. But I have no idea what the other codes are for. Please any help would b greatly appreciated.

p0400 egr flowp0440 evap emission control malf.p1615 manufactor specificp0141 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2p0446 evap emissions control circuit malf.p0705 trans range malf.

JDMskrilla
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Re: (zdonner)

Postby JDMskrilla » Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:00 am

I found this writeup on how to convert the s13 tranny for the s14 by drilling for the sensor.

zer...te-up

I am about to try this. I just got an s13 tranny and am about to start on it. It says in here though that not using the sensor just throws a code and doesn't effect anything...

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driftneil
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Re: Auto to Manual Writeup (fakieSI)

Postby driftneil » Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:31 am

fakieSI wrote:Ok I just got my 1997 240sx and I am really new at the whole nissan thing. I didnt think that it would be to different from hondas but I am begining to find out I was mistaken. The car was originally a auto but was converted. I am throwing several CELs keeping me from passing emissions. I pulled the codes today. Keep in mind I know the guy did one of those stupid egr deletes so I know thats what half of these are for. I am currently hunting down everything I need to fix that. But I have no idea what the other codes are for. Please any help would b greatly appreciated.

p0400 egr flowp0440 evap emission control malf.p1615 manufactor specificp0141 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2p0446 evap emissions control circuit malf.p0705 trans range malf.
The egr is self explanatory, the o2 is your rear 02 sensor, the evap is most likely the charcoal canister(its under the car, behind the pass wheel). And I don't mess with auto trans's, sorry bro. But you can call a nissan dealer, and they should tell you.Dont get overwhelmed man, they are all super easy to fix. Stick with it, you will thank yourself in the end. And acquiring the knowledge along the way is half the fun. Good luck. Any questions you can email me, as well as anyone else that needs help swapping auto to 5 speed. Ive done it many times. [email protected]

thienthan
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Postby thienthan » Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:54 pm

I have done a 5 speed swap on a convertable and wanted to know why it's so much more wiring on the s14? I'm trying to get ready to do a swap on the s14 and all this wiring is confusing me.

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driftneil
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Re: (thienthan)

Postby driftneil » Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:17 pm

Alot more sensors broham, its an obd2 setup on the s14's.

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Romeo_rus
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Postby Romeo_rus » Thu Feb 25, 2010 12:10 pm

I have another stupid question...well the bottom harness consists of two parts:1. some connectors, negative battery terminal, starter, alternator,CAS, 02 sensor and VSS...2nd one is just connectors to AT transmission (which were cut from it)...OK, according to writeup if I connect/loop the top connector near fusebox my car should start.Of that 2nd harness I should use only 2 wires green and black??? which are 3rd connector...

1.Why do I need to connect neutral switch? 2. and 5th gear switch?3. Can I cut and not connect the rest of connectors from 2nd harness?

obg3506
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Postby obg3506 » Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:12 am

Anybody figure out the Cruise Control!!!! I need it bad, lead foot!

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1990 240SX Hatch auto
1990 Jetta Turbodiesel 5sp FEILD BAGGED
1997 Jimmy 4WD
1985 Chev Wrangler
1994 F150 4X4

Re: (verSat1l3)

Postby rsagen » Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:46 pm

i dont understand the whole cruise thing. The only wire plugged into my tranny after my swap was the speed sensor... and the cruise works just fine. . what do you mean you couldnt get it to work.

ps yes i know i dont have backup lights hooked up (yet)

and another thing i just pluged the speed sensor wire to the wiring clip that has a 'cap' on the end. first of all when i was doing my motor swap i thought it was just a dead plug. is it possible you guys are pluging the wire into the wrong place?


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