auto to manual swap
auto to manual swap
I just got a 97 240SX and i love it, but its an automatic... i was wondering how much i should expect to spend to make it a manual... thanks in advance
-
IveBeenBad
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:53 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX Fastback STOCK BIOTCH
That is about the right price, but it also depends on if you can get them used or new. I am presently doing the swap on s13.
I dont know if anyone knows of hand, but are the bolts and plate between engine and transmission same from auto to manual. I would think they would be the same, but all place that tell you all parts needed for swap, they say you need manual plate and the new bolts.
I dont know if anyone knows of hand, but are the bolts and plate between engine and transmission same from auto to manual. I would think they would be the same, but all place that tell you all parts needed for swap, they say you need manual plate and the new bolts.
-
IveBeenBad
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:53 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX Fastback STOCK BIOTCH
-
whoflungpoo
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 8:30 am
- Car: 2006 Infinity G35 Sedan
2003 Evolution VIII
-
emperor_lunchbox
- Posts: 1305
- Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2004 6:31 am
- Car: 91 240sx, 96 eclipse spyder, and 96 camaro z28 (For Sale)
I believe xatracing.com does the auto - manual swap for 400$ during the install of an SR and 1600$ without the install of the SR.it seems expensive but at least you wont have to go through all of the work, like installing the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder and other things of that nature!
-
whoflungpoo
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 8:30 am
- Car: 2006 Infinity G35 Sedan
2003 Evolution VIII
The pedal and the master cylinder honestly weren't THAT bad.... It's plainly marked where the master cyl/clutch bolts up to. I mean clear as day. just take a drill to it (Preferably one of those progressive step bits... not sure of the proper name for em), and voila, you're through.
Here's some more tips that i came up with, I've posted it elsewhere a couple of times before:
My friend and i did a KA to KA swap (other motor blew a head gasket) and an auto -manual swap at the same time.
It's taken about 8-10 hrs of work so far for everthing that i'm doing. I'd say if you can set aside a weekend, you could knock it out... especially if you have a friend to help you.
but here are a few things to help you along though:
Bolts you need: Flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, transmission bellhousing mounting bolts. You will also need a pilot bushing for the manual transmission.
- you can get by with just purchasing the long clutch line that run's across the engine bay and the rubber line that connects to the slave cylinder. you have to bend the long line a bit, but it takes out that stupid dampning line.
- MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT DRIVESHAFT. I got mine from a friend, supposedly out of an S14, and the carrier bearing was on the front half, where it was supposed to be on the rear.
-the wiring is pretty straight foward. ;jumper the top connector behind the relay box in the engine compartment(behind the battery) that's the "park" relay that lets you turn your car on. beware, you don't have to have your clutch in to turn the car on after that, so make sure it's either in neutral or just make it a habit to push the clutch. :run a line from the reverse position sensor for your backup lights to the third connector down behind the fuse box. :drill a hole in front of the shifter assembly and run 3 wires. 1 from the neutral position sensor, 1 from the 5th gear sensor, and a ground from them both. These run to your ECU, I'm not sure which wires, but it's been documented before. If you can't find it on the net, let me know and i'll try and dig it up. ONLY attach the 5th speed sensor if you have a 5speed ECU.
-Watch out for the sensor on the top of the transmission bellhousing. if you leave it on while removing/replacing the transmission, chances are it's broken
- don't screw with replacing the break pedal, just cut the auto one and put some pedal covers over them.
- The holes for the master cylinder are Very clearly marked, and relatively easy to drill through.
-you must use the top bolt to mount the clutch pedal assembly. Mine didn't mount flush against the inner firewall, as there are supposed to be some spacers on the back of it. I found this out when i couldn't get my clutch pedal to go all the way down.
- you MUST use a manual transmission crossmember, else you will tear up your transmission mount and get nasty vibrations.
-Do yourself a favor and get an upgraded clutch from the get-go. I've got an OE in mine and it slips like hell.
I hope this helps, and good luck.
Here's some more tips that i came up with, I've posted it elsewhere a couple of times before:
My friend and i did a KA to KA swap (other motor blew a head gasket) and an auto -manual swap at the same time.
It's taken about 8-10 hrs of work so far for everthing that i'm doing. I'd say if you can set aside a weekend, you could knock it out... especially if you have a friend to help you.
but here are a few things to help you along though:
Bolts you need: Flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, transmission bellhousing mounting bolts. You will also need a pilot bushing for the manual transmission.
- you can get by with just purchasing the long clutch line that run's across the engine bay and the rubber line that connects to the slave cylinder. you have to bend the long line a bit, but it takes out that stupid dampning line.
- MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT DRIVESHAFT. I got mine from a friend, supposedly out of an S14, and the carrier bearing was on the front half, where it was supposed to be on the rear.
-the wiring is pretty straight foward. ;jumper the top connector behind the relay box in the engine compartment(behind the battery) that's the "park" relay that lets you turn your car on. beware, you don't have to have your clutch in to turn the car on after that, so make sure it's either in neutral or just make it a habit to push the clutch. :run a line from the reverse position sensor for your backup lights to the third connector down behind the fuse box. :drill a hole in front of the shifter assembly and run 3 wires. 1 from the neutral position sensor, 1 from the 5th gear sensor, and a ground from them both. These run to your ECU, I'm not sure which wires, but it's been documented before. If you can't find it on the net, let me know and i'll try and dig it up. ONLY attach the 5th speed sensor if you have a 5speed ECU.
-Watch out for the sensor on the top of the transmission bellhousing. if you leave it on while removing/replacing the transmission, chances are it's broken
- don't screw with replacing the break pedal, just cut the auto one and put some pedal covers over them.
- The holes for the master cylinder are Very clearly marked, and relatively easy to drill through.
-you must use the top bolt to mount the clutch pedal assembly. Mine didn't mount flush against the inner firewall, as there are supposed to be some spacers on the back of it. I found this out when i couldn't get my clutch pedal to go all the way down.
- you MUST use a manual transmission crossmember, else you will tear up your transmission mount and get nasty vibrations.
-Do yourself a favor and get an upgraded clutch from the get-go. I've got an OE in mine and it slips like hell.
I hope this helps, and good luck.
Interior pieces are just extra weight, you dont need them:D
Other then the inner boot, you can pick up all the interior stuff after the actual swap is taking place or while it is. You wil have enought trouble with some of the little stuff, like the bolt behind the engine(not taking engine out for swap). That is a ****ing ***ch. Then i love when your muffler bolts get all rusty too.
Other then the inner boot, you can pick up all the interior stuff after the actual swap is taking place or while it is. You wil have enought trouble with some of the little stuff, like the bolt behind the engine(not taking engine out for swap). That is a ****ing ***ch. Then i love when your muffler bolts get all rusty too.
-
whoflungpoo
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 8:30 am
- Car: 2006 Infinity G35 Sedan
2003 Evolution VIII
sycle, yeah, that's pretty much how long it took me including the motor swap, but i didn't have a full parts list... so when i started the swap, i had to go back a few times and order more parts. all i could find was "you prolly need some of these... " etc...
right now, i'm working on a definitive list of necessary parts, and a list of not so necessary, but useful stuff (IE: manual brake pedal assembly, misc clutch lines) I may even go so far as to get the actual part #'s from my local nissan dealer, just so other people don't have to go through the PITA that i did as far as researching and sifting through some of the misinformation that's out there.
right now, i'm working on a definitive list of necessary parts, and a list of not so necessary, but useful stuff (IE: manual brake pedal assembly, misc clutch lines) I may even go so far as to get the actual part #'s from my local nissan dealer, just so other people don't have to go through the PITA that i did as far as researching and sifting through some of the misinformation that's out there.
Yea, i am having fun because i live up in northern idaho where there are like no 240sx. One of the largest junk yards around doesnt even have one. I got my car shipped up from San diego. All my parts are shipped from different areas, so i have none of the bolts, i was going to look at auto bolts and just buy longer ones in some of the instances. Then i ordered the backing plate from nissan and it came a week later then it was supposed to. I am supposed to be getting my front of driveshaft pretty soon and guy i bough clutch kit from **cked me by not giving me my alignment tool, so i had to buy one. Then cannot find wrecked car for clutch line, so i have to bend my own.
I am just having a wonderful time:D
But at least i can just sit in the car and dream right now:ylsuper
I am just having a wonderful time:D
But at least i can just sit in the car and dream right now:ylsuper
I live in Moscow (U of I), and we have like 3 hatchbacks and 6 coupes, but none of them are going to the juck yard. They will probably just part them out. Their is a s**t load over in pullman too, but i have not been able to find anything in the juck yards. I got part of my driveshaft and my flywheel from down in Lewston, but that is about it.