Auto to Manual Swap

[new_to_drift]

hey.Im really interested in switching from 240 to 300zx.Im interested in just finding a N/A 300z.But i cant find a manual z32 for less than 5k.I see that some auto 300z are about 3500-4000.How hard is a auto to manual transmission swap?Would it even be worth it money wise?I have searched but cant find anything.Thanks

[nsrZ32]

hey.Im really interested in switching from 240 to 300zx.Im interested in just finding a N/A 300z.But i cant find a manual z32 for less than 5k.I see that some auto 300z are about 3500-4000.How hard is a auto to manual transmission swap?Would it even be worth it money wise?I have searched but cant find anything.Thanks

Its going to cost you atleast 1500 to do the full swap over to a 5spd. Honestly you're better off to just get a 5spd car to start. But if you'd rather do the conversion here is a write up by a shop that I saved on my computer awhile back....

Below are the parts necessary along with some additional info about each part. You can use your auto ECU in a 5 sp but not vice versa, the auto ECU has some additional hardware/programming regarding shift points, etc that are not included in the 5 sp. ECU. You can also use the auto EFI, interior, and front engine room harnesses, which are the largest ones, expensive, and not easy to change. These harnesses have additional plugs for the auto trans and auto trans control unit but they just become inactive when converting to 5 sp. If you were trying to go from 5sp to auto you would need to change those harnesses, which makes that an impractical venture. There are a few wiring tricks that are not explained below to get the back-up lights to work and to disable the starter without your foot on the clutch, not that difficult to fix.Other than that plug and play.

- 5 sp transmission (NA and TT 5sp can be used interchangeably but the NA 5 sp casing is machined down farther at the point where the starter mounts corresponding to smaller diameter flywheel. The NA 5sp can be used in a TT with TT flywheel/clutch kit by shimming out starter with a couple of washers. The TT 5 sp can be used in an NA with the corresponding TT flywheel/clutch kit or either machining down starter mounting area and using NA flywheel/clutch kit. TT 5sp does have some heavier duty internal components, but input/output shafts, mounting, and gear ratios are all the same. The speed sensors in the NA and TT transmissions are different because of the different gear ratios in the rear differentials. We offer used, rebuilt, and new 5 sp transmissions)

-Flywheel (Larger diameter for TT, some may choose to go with a lightweight aftermarket replacement. We offer good used resurfaced flywheels as well as new stock and aftermarket lightweight replacements (JUN, JWT, Fidanza)

-Flywheel bolts, 8 required (Same NA and TT, longer than the ones that hold the flex plate for the auto. We supply new and used ones)

-New Clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bushing, alignment tool) TT disc has more contact area and pressure plate is stronger. A TT clutch kit must be used with a TT flywheel and vice versa because of the bolt pattern on the flywheel where the pressure plate bolts up. The pilot bushing mounts in the back of the crankshaft and is different for Auto and 5 sp. When converting auto to 5 sp you must remove the one for the auto, which can be difficult to remove without something to heat the crank up with and a pilot bushing removal tool. We do not recommend used clutch components. Some choose to go with aftermarket performance clutch kits. We stock new Nissan and several aftermarket performance clutches)

-Pressure plate bolts, 9 required (Same NA and TT. Not supplied with OEM clutch kits. We stock used ones and recommend new longer ones for applications involving lightweight flywheels which the bolt holes tend to strip out on)

-Plates between motor and transmission (1 piece on a 5 sp, two pieces on an auto so the torque converter bolts can be accessed)

-Front half of the driveshaft (Rear section is the same for corresponding auto and 5 sp. models. The front sections are the same length for 5 sp TT and NA applications but the U joints are larger on the turbo, but they can be used interchangeably. Some may choose to go with one piece replacement driveshaft, which we offer for any application for $250, no core. We also offer good used and rebuilt sections.)

-Clutch booster, lines, and vacuum canisters (TT only, added to ease the pressure needed to push in the clutch pedal because of the stronger pressure plate on the TT. Works off of vacuum from intake like brake booster, but includes a maze of piping including to vacuum reserve canisters, one under the master cylinder and one under the drivers fender.We do not recommend adding this when doing an Auto to 5sp conversion on a TT. We just use the NA clutch master cylinder and pedal setup which is cheaper, easier to install, cleaner, and the stiff pedal isn't something that our average customer has a problem with anyway. We can supply the booster and accessories used or new it if desired)

-Clutch master cylinder (The TT one is different corresponding to the TT clutch booster. Used, rebuilt, and new available)

-Clutch slave cylinder (Same NA and TT. Used, rebuilt, and new available)

-Metal clutch hydraulic lines (Including section going up to bleeder valve on pass side apron, same NA and TT. These are almost impossible to install correctly with the engine in the car, because they run out of the master cylinder behind the motor. We just pull the motor when we do a conversion, partly because of this. Used lines in stock)

-Rubber hydraulic line (Attaches to slave cylinder and goes up to metal lines, different length for NA and TT, because of the position of a bracket on the frame where the metal lines end which doesn't exist on an auto so when doing a conversion it really doesn't matter which one you use. But we stock new TT one's because they are longer and the used ones can develop leaks.)

-Clutch pedal (Different NA and TT because of the booster setup on the TT. Used ones in stock)

-Brake pedal (Same for NA and TT. Used ones in stock)

-Shifter/linkage with bushings (Same NA and TT. We stock used shifters along with the brace that attaches it to the transmission. We always use new bushings

-Shifter support (Holds shifter in place, rubber insulator made into plate holds shifter up. We supply them new, the rubber support on the used ones is usually cracked or broken into, which we usually repair by just sandwiching a metal strip in between the plate and body, and drilling a hole in it to support the shifter. Doesn't produce any terrible vibration or anything and is great for those who feel the need to jerk the shifter around and don?t want to keep breaking that rubber brace.)

-2 rubber shift boots (New and used ones available. They sit under the leather shift boot and attach to the shifter brace plate. They drastically reduce noise and some heat from the transmission below)

-Shift boot and lower metal retainer (New ones in stock. The console piece around the shifter is the same for the auto and 5 sp, but you have to screw in the metal piece on the underside to retain the shift boot.)

-Shift knob (We stock new ones because the old ones are usually in poor shape)

-Alternator/transmission wiring harness (This is the only harness that has to be replaced and is very different between Auto and 5sp. It plugs in at several plugs behind the passenger headlight and runs back down the passenger side of the engine towards the transmission, it is the same NA and TT. It plugs in almost exactly right, except for a little splicing has to be done on one plug. We have good used ones in stock.)

[WidebodyZ]

The swap is fairly easy too..very straight forward. The most difficult thing you'll have to do is cut the hole and drill the two bolt holes for the clutch master. Everything else is cake.

[new_to_drift]

ok thanks.thats exactly what i wanted to know.

[mamaro]

The swap is fairly easy too..very straight forward. The most difficult thing you'll have to do is cut the hole and drill the two bolt holes for the clutch master. Everything else is cake.

I know this is a two year old thread. I hear alot of people say that the swap is easy. after reading nsrZ32 post. They say to take out the engine to do Metal clutch hydraulic lines.. Is there a work around anyone has found?

[dozug]

Im thinking about this too,, If i get all the parts, then labor fee will be much less right? how long will this be take??

I was expecting about $1000 to do whole swap..

[mamaro]

:BUMP

[R-Yahne_240]

a 5 speed swap will be about 1000 in parts and about 1000 in labor thats when you need a few good car buddies and a weekend

[Xiper-V]

Hi there,

Annoyingly I have just seen this thread after making a few purchases.


I have bought a N/A manual gearbox (bare gearbox) and was hoping to make the adaptions to fit a TT engine (which I have yet to purchase).

Unfortunately after reading this

I have purchased a

TT Clutch and Brake Pedal
TT Clutch Master Cylinder
TT Clutch Slave Cylinder
TT Alternator to Transmission harness
TT Shifter Bar (with shifter and linkage attached)

(Since I have seen this I thought id pause on the spending and get some advice)

Will all of these parts this fit using the N/A gearbox? (with the intensions to do the mods for it to fit the TT Clutch and Flywheel)


Many Thanks
Lawrence

[nissanfreak12]

Hi there,

Annoyingly I have just seen this thread after making a few purchases.


I have bought a N/A manual gearbox (bare gearbox) and was hoping to make the adaptions to fit a TT engine (which I have yet to purchase).

Unfortunately after reading this

I have purchased a

TT Clutch and Brake Pedal
TT Clutch Master Cylinder
TT Clutch Slave Cylinder
TT Alternator to Transmission harness
TT Shifter Bar (with shifter and linkage attached)

(Since I have seen this I thought id pause on the spending and get some advice)

Will all of these parts this fit using the N/A gearbox? (with the intensions to do the mods for it to fit the TT Clutch and Flywheel)


Many Thanks
Lawrence

Thank you for searching. Yes all those will work with a NA trans, just need to shave the inside and shim the starter. I would suggest getting a NA Master Cylinder, the TT one has a booster and I am unsure if it will work without the booster. If you have the booster, then it will work just fine. Everything else is basically the same thing TT to NA.

[zswap0429]

Currently doing this swap. Almost finished. One thing i highly suggest is the one piece braided clutch hose. Saves a lot of time. And you can still use the tt master cylinder if you buy the plenum attachment and hose to go with it

[dillon gopal]

Hey guys Im currently doing a auto to manual swap. Im having trouble with taking a washer looking piece that is ceased onto the crank! I need it out in order to put the pilot bearing on and continue with the process..any suggestions regarding how to take that part out without damaging the crank?!