Augh. Wheel bearing stuck to axle housing.

[BenKenobi]

So I finally got up the courage to replace the rear wheel bearings on the driver's side. Things went (relatively) smoothly up until I got those last four bolts off and the damn wheel bearing refused to budge. It's like the rust welded everything together!

I've tried everything I can think of... Pushing, pulling, hammering. I even bought a chisel to try to get between the axle housing and the wheel bearing. NOTHING!

I'm seriously at a loss here... and now I'm down a vehicle until I can finish this.

Anyone got some advice to save my butt here?

[BenKenobi]

Oh, forgot to add, I'd rather not have to take the axle housing off ... The cotter pin and nut on the lower control arm (is that right?) look very well rusted on and hard to get to.

I was thinking maybe a propane torch and a hammer?

[Logan76]

a little propane blow torch wont be hot enough, might aswell try heating it with a zippo, lol. Your going to want oxy/acetelyne or oxy/propane.

[BenKenobi]

Just so I'm sure, you're saying that:

(image removed, other website didn't appreciate the hotlink)

.. would not be good enough, right?

How much would one of the other ones run me? I'm also on a budget here. (otherwise i'd have a mechanic do this stuff for me :-\)
Modified by BenKenobi at 10:41 AM 5/18/2009

[Logan76]

oh s*** man, propane/oxy and oxy/acetelyne are expensive, you would need torch, hoses, regulators, and the tanks themselves which would cost you the most.

[BenKenobi]

Well hell I wasn't planning on cutting it off, just heating it up enough to break the rust-weld.

[Logan76]

I get that lol, thats why you dont use a cutting torch, use the heating torch end. Those blow torches are worthless. Heat the axle housing and it should expand and let a little clearance in the bearing. Dont heat your outter race of your bearing though, thats defeating the purpose.

[BenKenobi]

Hm... What about a slide hammer/flange or some sort of puller?

[Logan76]

puller may work if you can get it in there.

[BenKenobi]

The only plan I can seem to formulate is putting the axle nut back on, putting the claws onto the hub, and pushing against the end of the axle.

The only thing I can see going wrong is that it (somehow) pulls the hub out of the bearing...

*edit* wait that's not gonna work... the nut pushes up against the hub ...

I guess if the slide hammer doesn't work, I'll just take the axle housing out and deal with it on the press.
Modified by BenKenobi at 11:43 AM 5/18/2009

[BenKenobi]

well, the slide hammer worked.. after about 15-20 good whacks the hub came off along with one of the inner races... Wheel bearing stayed in there though ... At that point, in a very controlled rage, I took my hammer and started hitting the wheel bearing, which made it rotate a little. So I'd hit it enough to rotate, spray some PB blaster, hit it to rotate the other way, PB blaster, repeat a few times... After a while, I got enough of a gap to work my chisel in and popped it right out!

Now I just have to get the race off the hub. Bugger is *ON THERE*.

[Logan76]

try taking a larger center punch, and hitting one side of the race, then go to the other side 180 degrees away and give it a whap, just make sure your hitting only on the race.

[BenKenobi]

Where am I "aiming" it? The race is in the "seated" position, so there's not much along the lines of space where i can stick it and get a good downward blow.

Oddly enough, I did actually do a good bit of searching here on the subject... Someone else suggested this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...30305

... unfortunately, I don't have $40 to spend on "another tool I'm only gonna use once"
Modified by BenKenobi at 1:06 AM 5/20/2009

[Logan76]

I use those at work alot, they're handy. If you can get a blow on the inside of the race, on the wall it may be enough to jar it loose, it may not grab and just slide as you hit, but it's worth a shot. You may end up cutting it out.

[BenKenobi]

I decided to let a mechanic remove it for me... No sense in me buying more tools or risk breaking the hub or something crazy-assed. Cost me $20 and now I have an intact inner race to use as a drift to put on the new bearing.

I hope the rest of this job goes smoothly.

[BenKenobi]

Everything went smoothly after getting that race taken off. Brought it back home, pressed the new bearing on, put everything back together and test drove it all within an hour.

It's so quiet in my car you can hear a mouse fart now.

Thanks for your help and encouragement, Logan76!

[Logan76]

your welcome, glad you were able to get it replaced and in running order again.