Audio tech help + fuel door problem

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
JohnCera
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:52 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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Sup guys, I've recently been having a problem with my driver's side door speaker failing to produce any sound. At first it would stutter and now it has stopped completely. All three other speakers work fine!

I haven't owned this car for THAT long and unbeknownst to me, I found an amp and some cool stuff in rear hatch. However, I have no idea how any of this stuff works. Here is a picture of the setup next to the left rear speaker:

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See that round, silver cylindrical object? It freewheels when spun on its black outer housing, which is bolted to the metal. Anyone know what that thing is?

It also has an aftermarket Gravity headunit. An extra detail to note would be that this car was originally fit with the upgraded Bose sound system.

I also have another problem, except much simpler:

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I have researched a little bit and found out that the lever next to the driver seat is connected to a single wire which actuates both the fuel door and the hatch, and the hatch still works fine via the lever.

Anyone got any ideas about either of these issues?


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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
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Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Probably a broken or disconnected cable for the fuel door.

As for the cylinder thing, I would lean towards saying capacitor, but doesn't look like anything I've ever seen. And audio is a huge problem on these cars, especially the Bose (Blows) edition, which something like 97% of US spec cars came with. Do you have the original head unit or an aftermarket one? Seeing the amp, I'd assume aftermarket. Confirmation?

JohnCera
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:52 pm
Car: 1990 300ZX 2+2 N/A

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Ace2cool wrote:Probably a broken or disconnected cable for the fuel door.

As for the cylinder thing, I would lean towards saying capacitor, but doesn't look like anything I've ever seen. And audio is a huge problem on these cars, especially the Bose (Blows) edition, which something like 97% of US spec cars came with. Do you have the original head unit or an aftermarket one? Seeing the amp, I'd assume aftermarket. Confirmation?
Yeah, It currently has a Gravity head unit.

Do you know if you can get access to that fuel door cable if I remove the rear left speaker housing?

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Ace2cool
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
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I believe you can, actually. It may require removal of another panel as well, but that'd be the quickest way in.

And I'd bet the speakers are still running through the factory housings with the Blose amps in there trying to drive an already boosted signal that doesn't "play nice" with what they are looking for from the factory head unit. Two ways you can handle it: run new speaker wires from the head unit to the speakers OR use the wires already run and tap into them to bypass and unplug the amp. I went route #2, and I couldn't tell you which wires are which to save my life at this point. Lemme look around and see if I can find a definitive how-to.

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Also, what's the amp hooked up to?

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Also, I forgot we added this article. The wire colors for the speaker base are in the 2nd picture. Just tap into those, run wires directly to the speakers (Or amp, depending on how it's all set up in your car), and you should be golden.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/wiring ... m-z32.html

MotoCARR
Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2015 8:15 am
Car: 1991 300zxTT
1996 Maxima
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Definitely aftermarket, that's a Kicker 4 channel amp
I'm going to go with that cylinder being a fan. Reason being is that it's installed under the rear hatch carpet and the previous owner was making an attempt to keep the amp cool. Plus I can see a relay that is wired to come on with the stereo and draw power from the big red power wire coming from the battery :). Have you tried turning the stereo on and seeing if it moves?

You not having sound could be a few things, I would tackle in this order:
-Dead channel on the Kicker amp.(Not likely, but it could happen)
Easy way to test is at the amp identify which speaker channel goes to which speaker. With with the stereo on, pick a speaker channel(one channel constitutes a +/- pair next to each other, usually labeled CH 1 or A) and remove the (-) wire. Listen for which speaker stops playing, reconnect the (-) then label the channel. My experience, people usually use channel 1+2(or A+B) are the front speakers with 1 being the driver and 2 being the passenger. After you know which channel on the Kicker amp goes to which speaker, disconnect the front driver sepaker that is not working. Then disconnect the leads from any of the three known working speakers and move them to the front driver channel that you just disconnected. If that channel on the amp is good, you should hear sound coming out of the "good speaker" you just disconnected.

-If the car still has the factory amps installed and the audio is passing through them, chances are that the amp simply just went dead. To remedy this what you will have to do is remove the door panel and take the speaker out and look to see if the amp is still connected(Pics below). If it is you will just have to run a short wire from the where the amp plugs into the door, directly to the speaker. Like Ace2cool said, most likely this is going to be the issue! Post pics if you can as you go along!

Bose amps
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