Post by
Looneybomber »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/looneybomber-u14304.html
Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:30 pm
This is the wrong forum BTW. We do have a car audio forum.
So is this correct?Headunit = stockSpeakers = Infinityspeaker amp = ???Sub drivers = 2, 10" JBL'sSub enclosure = ???Sub amp = ???
Here's the thing about amps. You're wanting quality sound right? That's 99% up to your sub driver and enclosure. The other 1% encompasses the character of the amp. Assuming you pick a quality amp, the only thing that really matters is actual output, not rated. Pick one that's within your size constraints, power requirements and obviously budget. Why?
Assuming amp A and amp B both have input inpedances of 10k ohms or higher, and can both put out the same amount of power with .01% THD or lower, you will not be able to tell the difference between them when hooked up to a sub.
Some amps, when hooked up to full range speakers will sound "bright, warm, dry, ect." whatever adjective people like to describe them with. That's comprised of the architecture of the amp and also input impedance interacting with the output from the source unit. By maintaning the constants of output power, distortion and input impedance, that only keeps amp layout/architecture in play which is the only "character" I am talking about.
Sure ther will be a big difference between crap amps, which is why some poeple say this amp sounds better than that amp, but comparing high quality amps and deliving the same amount of undistorted power to your sub, you will not audibly tell the difference. Now if you compare two different high-quality amps, but have the gains set so that one delivers 100W while the other 110W, there will be a difference between A and B comparisons.
That is why I say 99% comes from the sub/enclosure and the other 1% comes from the amp assuming you use quality amps. Picking the wrong enclosure for your sub drivers spells certain disaster to your potential sound quality and.