Attn. Bwana or anyone that can answer this simple question.

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longhaireddwb
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Car: 1990 and 1992 nissan stanza GXE

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I got a book and I've been reading it and the post by Bwana with the step by step directions on replacing the timing chain. I'm working on a 92 Stanza with the KA24E (which is stuck in there sideways).

My problem is with two parts and a question about the distributer.

1. The book says to remove the oil separator. Where is this and what is its purpose?

2. After removing the oil pan, remove the oil strainer mounting bolt. I imagine I can find this item but why do I need to remove the mounting bolt? It didn't say remove the part, just the mounting bolt. Did they just leave something out?

3. Is there a seal, gasket or o-ring on the distributer? Theres got to be something and shouldn't I replace it also?

Thanks in advance for answering these stupid question! I did just fine on my old Chevy 350 but when they started sticking the engine in sideways and adding all the computer stuff and sensors I got out of the automotive business. I guess thats what happens when you get old.



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elwesso
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what service manual are oyu using? please tell me its not one of those useless chiltons or haynes?

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longhaireddwb
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I've got a Chilton's Import Car Manual 1988 - 1992. Its about three inches thick and has lots of cars and engine types.

I tried to find a book for my car and couldn't find one. The Haynes books don't have the KA24E engine in them for my stanza and I heard that the Chilton book for my car sucks badly.

What book should I have and where can I find one? I really what a good book for my 2 Nissan stanza's, GXE w/KA24E, 1990 and 1992. Help me find one!!!

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elwesso
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Let me try and see if I can find a FSM that has the KA24E... knowing what I know I dont see why youd have to remove the oil pan....

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longhaireddwb
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Thanks for the help. I'll be waiting for an answer.

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longhaireddwb
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I'm still waiting on you elwesso. Please get back to me. Or maybe someone else can answer these questions. Thanks

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elwesso
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if its OK, i can move this to the sentra forum and we can try it there. I dont havea FSM with the single cam.... sorry

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AZhitman
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longhaireddwb
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Now is this all the same as my 92 Stanza?

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elwesso
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the EM (motor) section will be close enough to do the timing chain.

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longhaireddwb
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Sorry guys. This has no information on how to replace the timing chain and gears: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1989-90 Do you have something else that does?

BTW, I got it all apart! Now to put it back together. Its an automatic! How do I hold the engine still enough to tighten the crank and cam bolts to spec?

boriquaS13
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I believe your talking about the little black box next to the valve covertrying to remeber properly. I think its purpose is to keep oil from renteringthe intake manifold because its part of the crankcase system. The bolt thatyou speak of may in fact be attached to the timing chain cover which is whyit says to remove the bolt. I think the oil pump is made into the timing coverso the pick up tube or strainer could be attached to timing cover. A yes there should be an o-ring on the distributer. I think I answered all your questions as best as i could really hope this helps you and yes you should replace it becaus its probably as hard as a rock.

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longhaireddwb
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Thanks boriquaS13! You did answer my questions. Your a lot of help. Thanks again.

boriquaS13
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Your welcome bro!!!!!

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longhaireddwb
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I got it done today. It took me 15 hours to do.

The problems I had:1. My puller wasn't wide enough so I had to hook it onto the area where the belt runs. I put a little tension on the puller and then tapped it with a hammer. Did this over and over and over and I got it off without any damage.

2. When removing the oil pan I didn't disconnect the exhaust from the converter. Just from the head. So when putting the oil pan back on I had a hell of a time getting it back on without screwing up the gasket. I'm not sure if its going to leak or not. I'll check it in a couple days.

3. When installing the timing cover back on I screwed up the head gasket that is on the top of the timing cover. Now I do have a oil leak! I'm thinking of taking the valve cover off again and rubbing some gasket sealer on the seam from the inside and hoping that that might seal it up or at least slow it down.

4. This car is an automatic and I don't have any air tool. So when I was trying to take the crank bolt loose the engine would turn. I didn't want to take the starter off and stick a pry bar in the flywheel so what I did was to stick a large wrench between the cam gear and the timing chain and turn the crank until the wrench was bound in between the two. Than I was able to get the crank bolt out. The only problem with that was trying to put the bolt back in and torque it to specs. I tightened the cam bolt at tight as I could and then had a friend hold it with a wrench while I tried to tighten the crank bolt. It kept loosening the cam bolt. So I tightened both of them the best I could and the first stop after getting the car to run was a garage. They put a impact gun on the crank bolt and tightened it up. Its probably too tight but it on and ain't going to come off.

They didn't make this car with enough room in the engine to work on! What the hell is wrong with these people!

I also replaced the CTS because the car wont idle when cold and will idle too high when warm but it didn't help! I've checked for vacuum leaks and haven't found any. Does anyone know what else I should be looking at to fix this idle problem?

Thanks to all the folks that helped me with this by giving me info. Most of it was good and helped. This engine is not the same as a 240zx even though they both are KA24E's. There are a few differences. Thanks again to all who helped and the maker of this forum!!!

PS. Please let me know about what will fix my idling problem!

boriquaS13
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hey longhaireddwb pndered your problem for a couple of days i think youneed to check your ignition timing maybe its off, if it is your timing chain is off. So double check that timing and get back to me and see if we can fixthis problem......

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longhaireddwb
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Thanks for replying boriquaS13.

After I replaced the timing chain I put a timing light on it and it was off by about three degrees. I set the timing with a timing light. The only thing that bothered me when I did it was the book said to unplug the idle senser (I think). I unpluged the sensor that is connected to the throttle cables and butterfly on the plentum. I hope that was the right one. Anyway, when I unplugged it nothing changed. I would have thought the idle would have changed when it was unplugged. I guess I'm just used to the 350 Chevy and unplugging the vacuum advance to set the timing. These new fangled cars with all the sensors drive me crazy.

Any other ideas. Maybe another sensor to test or replace?

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Bwana
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I'm sorry I missed this thread man! I've been super busy lately and somehow didn't make it to this forum... I'll do some research and see what I can find for ya.

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longhaireddwb
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Today I was messing around and unplugged the IAC sensor and ran the car for 30 minutes and it didn't run any different with it plugged in. Of course the car was warm but shouldn't it have ran badly or idled funny? I'm going to try it with the car cold and see what happens. How would I go about testing this sensor?

And thanks Bwana. I'll be waiting for your input.

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Bwana
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I'm thinking either vacuum leak (like you mentioned) or AAC/IACV. Do you have a FSM for the car? It should help you locate 'em. Make sure they're hooked up properly. They may need cleaning as well.
longhaireddwb wrote: I unpluged the sensor that is connected to the throttle cables and butterfly on the plentum. I hope that was the right one. Anyway, when I unplugged it nothing changed. I would have thought the idle would have changed when it was unplugged.
That's probably your TPS. Not sure where the "idle sensor" is, FSM should help you locate that as well.

I'll try to keep up with this in case you have any more questions.

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longhaireddwb
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I meant thew AAC. Thats what I unplugged. It says AAC right on it. And no I don't have a FSM. Where might I find one for this car?By the way, How would I clean this sensor? I'm getting the feeling that its my problem. If I'm able to clean it I rather do that then to try to replace it!

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Bwana
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In this thread they're hashing it out pretty well, have a look at it. I think (just glanced at it) that they're dealing with a de (may even be an sr) but the sensors/valves are pretty much the same.

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Bwana
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I'm having a bit of a tough time coming across a download for a Stanza FSM, but I think Wes might have one. I'll ask him when I catch him online.

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longhaireddwb
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Thanks man. the thread you showed me will help. I'll check into it and go to the car and test and clean. Thanks again!

And if you can come across the FSM somewhere please let me know. I'd love to have access to one. I find things on the other Nissan's but nothing on the 90-92 stanza with the ka24e.

Your the man!

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longhaireddwb
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I did all the test I could find. I also took apart the ACC sensor/valve and cleaned it. Still the idle is not right. I believe its the AAC causing my problems. I checked the local auto parts stores and found one for 159.00. Too much for this old car. I'm going to drive it the way it is and say the hell with the idle problem.

Thanks for all your help.

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Bwana
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You may keep an eye on ebay or check the yards for a used one if it's bad enough. You might also check and see if it crosses over with one off of another vehicle (240?) which may be easier to find. I checked around for a FSM but didn't find a thing...

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longhaireddwb
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I found one on E-bay for cheep. I just hope it works. You know how people are on E-bay! It used and came off of a car with 130,000 miles on it that hit a pole. Wish me luck.


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