I've been trying to follow along the forums and figure out what a good starting place would be for turbo'ing my kae. I'm currently going through and rebuilding a spare kae that I picked up. I have a good idea (I believe) on what I need to do in the rebuilding process. Granted, this will take a while to rebuild the way I want it, but when I get done I know I'm going to be broke. My question is, what can I do to turbo the car that would be a good intro, would be cheap, and safe for the engine.
I thought I read that you can put certain turbo's from a junkyard on and get 3-5psi without a retune or fmu, but I figured I'd just ask. Anything I do in this line of thinking is purely for education on my part and will be replaced with better equipment asap.
Thanks in advance.
Aspiring KAE-T
i'm currently running 6.5psi with stock rebuild. small rebuilt t3(.48/.42), 2.5in. piping, big intercooler, msd sci coil, walbro, 38mm evo wg. thats pretty much it. no tuning or injectors yet. she ripped 196whp and 202wtq just like that. this week i'm getting the ecu tuned and putting in 550's. then 10psi daily and maybe like 14psi for racing. hope this gives u an idea. oh if u wanna buy a brand new emanage let me know. i have one that i was going to use, but since i got a good deal on an ecu tune i don't need it anymore. good luck.
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Iamjohnhayes
- Posts: 411
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 9:42 am
- Car: 89 Single Cam Hatch
Re: (hek1620)
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5597
veilsidde180sx posted what i would say to be the best turbo ka fr dummies list so far. aslo you might want to check out their SOHC KAE-T forum.
Here is a section of his post (before he starts adding pics)
These are the Prerequisites to building a SOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband gauge(typical A/F gauge from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.
Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp
Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve Turbo (T25) Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body
Fuel Control: FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal. DSM 450cc Injectors or Comparable (These injectors are low impedence, while the ECU requires high impedence. Making it necessary to wire in resistors to alter that so the ECU can control them. These can be found at places found at the bottom) Apexi SAFC2 Greddy Emanage
Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.
Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount) Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated. Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.
Fuel Control DSM 450cc Injectors Apexi SAFC2 Greddy Emanage Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.
Turbo Manifold T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended. Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that. Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.
Fuel Control 550cc Injectors SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu. MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard. Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Eprom Tuning or a JWT. This is the largest JWT is capable of flashing for those that want it. Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp. Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block Internals This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp
Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open. FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core. Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though. Exhaust 3"
Block Internals At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so. Forged Rods Forged Pistons Stock Crank Plus your typical rebuild items.
Fuel Control Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel. 720cc Injectors. Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.
Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.
Turbo Manifold Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered. Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel. FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range. Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels Exhaust 3" or larger
Fuel Control 720cc-1600cc Injectors Standalone Fuel Management Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow. Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring. Dyno tuning is very valuable.
Block Internals Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list Cam (per your discretion) Build your head as well Solid Lifter Conversion (not required, but not a bad idea) Valve Springs Valve Retainers ARP Head/Main Studs Cometic Headgasket or similar
And Again Thanks to Veilside180sx o the KA-t.org forums
veilsidde180sx posted what i would say to be the best turbo ka fr dummies list so far. aslo you might want to check out their SOHC KAE-T forum.
Here is a section of his post (before he starts adding pics)
These are the Prerequisites to building a SOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband gauge(typical A/F gauge from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.
Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp
Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve Turbo (T25) Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body
Fuel Control: FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal. DSM 450cc Injectors or Comparable (These injectors are low impedence, while the ECU requires high impedence. Making it necessary to wire in resistors to alter that so the ECU can control them. These can be found at places found at the bottom) Apexi SAFC2 Greddy Emanage
Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.
Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount) Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated. Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.
Fuel Control DSM 450cc Injectors Apexi SAFC2 Greddy Emanage Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.
Turbo Manifold T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended. Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that. Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.
Fuel Control 550cc Injectors SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu. MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard. Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Eprom Tuning or a JWT. This is the largest JWT is capable of flashing for those that want it. Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp. Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block Internals This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp
Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open. FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core. Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though. Exhaust 3"
Block Internals At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so. Forged Rods Forged Pistons Stock Crank Plus your typical rebuild items.
Fuel Control Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel. 720cc Injectors. Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.
Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.
Turbo Manifold Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered. Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel. FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range. Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels Exhaust 3" or larger
Fuel Control 720cc-1600cc Injectors Standalone Fuel Management Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow. Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring. Dyno tuning is very valuable.
Block Internals Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list Cam (per your discretion) Build your head as well Solid Lifter Conversion (not required, but not a bad idea) Valve Springs Valve Retainers ARP Head/Main Studs Cometic Headgasket or similar
And Again Thanks to Veilside180sx o the KA-t.org forums