As Promised. . . Here's a few pics of my 720!

[fastboatman29212]

I am glad to be a part of this forum and I'll contribute as much as I can.

First my story. Found this gem on Craigslist 2 weeks ago. Drove it home. Guy who sold it to me had it for 13 years. No history available prior to that.

It's a 1986 Regular Cab Nissan 720 with 197K miles and a 5 speed MT. Original motor still runs good. It's a base model but does have A/C, power disc brakes up front, some body rust but nothing bad. 5th gear has a tooth or 2 missing and it clicks when in 5th gear but runs fine anyway, so I just use 4 gears and I will probably swap in a used 5 speed MT from a parts yard in town (still haven't decided yet)!

I plan to get the A/C fixed 'cause the heat here in SC will cook you alive if you don't have it.

As for the body, I plan to paint it primer gray and make it look like a rat rod, maybe lower it, maybe just leave it alone and save the money for something else. I really don't know what I'll do yet but my budget is small.

So far, I have replaced the plugs, wires and distributor cap. She runs better now. Starts right up.

I hope you enjoy the pics.

[CharlieW]

Did yours have the tubes from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner before....or did they just plug those holes off, and what does the front of the air cleaner look like?

[fastboatman29212]

I took these photos tonight, so the light was not the best. . . sorry! Anyway, I believe the engine is untouched, that is . . . completely factory stock. So all the tubing and lines should be where they belong. I will be happy to photograph anything you like if you are trying to figure out where stuff should go. I'll take more pics when the light is better, but here are some, including closeups. I still have the 2 inch tube that comes up from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner intact, . . . you can see it in one of the pics.

[86 720]

I'd replace the negative and positive power wires with 2ga.. I was amazed how different it was when I did. Also, go get about 5 feet of new vacuum line, and replace it all.

Nice truck!

[PEZi]

Did yours have the tubes from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner before....or did they just plug those holes off, and what does the front of the air cleaner look like?

only certain years had those...

nice truck!

[fastboatman29212]

I'd replace the negative and positive power wires with 2ga.. I was amazed how different it was when I did. Also, go get about 5 feet of new vacuum line, and replace it all.

Since I'm still a newb to all this "720" stuff, let me ask you to be a bit more specific. What exactly do you mean in your quote above?

My plan was to check for vacuum leaks and replace lines only if I found a leak. There are so many lines that I would not know where to start.

What exactly are you referring to when you say "replace negative and positive power wires with 2ga"?

thanks in advance for the helpful advice.

[Visiotech]

I'd replace the negative and positive power wires with 2ga..

The battery cables... Go to your local parts house and ask the person for positive and negative battery cables. They will probably sell you 4aug (gauge) cables. If the person you talk to seems knowledgeable you might ask him/her to see if they can match the length and style with a larger diameter cable. I agree w/ using the 2aug cables... The more juice you can squeeze through the pipes the better everything works. Same with the plug wires. NAPA offers a build-it-yourself wire kit in 8.8mm wires by Accel. Nice wires and there is enough to do your Z motor.

NAPA offers these for stock replacement. They work well but as you will see, the bigger the wire the more juice flows:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Result ... 90+2090013

I would recommend 8.8mm wires vs. the stock 7mm wires. You will spend a bit more but, you will notice a difference.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 0006503409
As for your post

My plan was to check for vacuum leaks and replace lines only if I found a leak. There are so many lines that I would not know where to start.

REPLACE THEM ALL!!!
There are 5/16in and 1/4 in. lines on the motor AND the fuel vapor canister.There may be a 1/8in too, I don't remember for sure. There is a short run from the manifold to the power brake booster, if applicable, this is 3/8th inch. I recommend using fuel line. The vacuum line always seem soft and I feel they would collapse under allot of vacuum. Plus it takes ALLOT longer for heat and elements to deteriorate fuel lines! Get 3-5 feet of each and just do it. One at a time. start at the distributor and work your way under the air filter housing. OR! Cap everything but the manifold to booster (3/8inch) and the carb to distributor(1/4inch) for the vacuum advance dashpot. These 2 are the only required vacuum lines for it to go and whoah.

[noface]

"These 2 are the only required vacuum lines for it to go and whoah"

I beg to differ...

the Hitachi carb requires a few lines for continued operation, choke pull-off as an example, to continue to run well, though I will agree that you can get rid of 80-90% of the vacuum lines and be good to go.

Now if he had a weber... 2 vacuum lines, one for the dizzy, the other for power brake booster.

Replace ONE line at a time, finish that line before you pull off another. It's easier, and you won't get it mucked up. Do as mentioned above, REPLACE them ALL.

[fastboatman29212]

OK, thanks for the advice. Currently, my 720 starts and runs well. HOWEVER!!! The first thing I noticed is that the motor idles a bit fast. Lets just say, fast enough to slowly let the clutch out and she would start moving on level ground without stalling. It accelerates well. Motor tends to cut out easily during the first few minutes of operation, then she runs fine once warm.

First thing I plan to do is check the idle setting. Someone may have tinkered with it.

Here's a question: Could it have anything to do with fuel pressure? Maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator?

On another subject, I have already purchased new plugs, 8mm wires and a new distributor cap. I will bet my battery cables are 2 gauge. Anyway, they look brand new and I;m recording 14 volts at the terminals while the engine is running.

I went by the local parts yard and picked up another carb identical to mine from an '86 720. The reason I did that is because I noticed that my current carb has a choke flap that stays open all the time. I noticed that the one at the parts yard still had spring tension and would close, so I thought I could possibly get parts from it or maybe swap carbs if I needed to.

I'd appreciate coments about the carb problem.

I will go ahead and plan a day for the vacuum line exchange. Right now I'm planning on putting on a replacement valve cover as well. Got that from the parts yard too. Current one has holes where the air cleaner is mounted onto it.

I will try to post photos of the work I do.

[noface]

the fast idle probably has to do with a vacuum leak. Or the carbs been adjusted to compensate for a leak.

If the choke flap isn't working, first check the mechanicals on your carb and make sure nothing is binding it up, or parts missing, defeated, or what not. Replace or repair if necessary.

Replace ALL vacuum lines, one at a time and INSURE there are no leaks. Spray carb cleaner, or propane from a hand held propane torch around all fittings and connections to identify any vacuum leaks. IF so, replace, repair where necessary. Pay particular attention around the base of the carb where it meets the intake manifold, you may have a leak there to.

Make sure the timing is set correctly. If it's idling too fast, the timing will be advanced and you can't set it that way... get it to idle at 850 or so, disconnect and plug vacuum advance, and set timing about 10deg BTDC (can't recall spec, so others jump in here...).

Once you konw these are good, then you can start adjusting the idle mix and speed (two different things). IIRC, the Hitachi has a plug you need to remove to get at the idle mix screw...

Of course, if you find something along the way, it may fix the high idle, and you won't have to fiddle with the carb.

There is no fuel pressure regulator on these things... just a line from the pump to the carb. If it runs, and doesn't spew fuel everywhere, you're good to go.

[fastboatman29212]

I started replacing my ball joints this weekend. I'm struggling just trying to get the castle nut off the stem, however everything else on the ball joint replacement is moving along smoothly. Seller on eBay has them for $39.43 FOR ALL FOUR including shipping!!!!!!! That's a crazy good deal!

Anyway, I jumped on that price but am still gonna do the vacuum line change this weekend while I wait for the ball joints to arrive.

I need feedback from you guys: Would it be worthwhile doing a step by step photo thread showing how to replace the ball joints? Maybe it's already been done by someone else. Like I said in my first post, I will contribute to the forum as much as I can.

[Visiotech]

I bet that's where I got mine! I work @ NAPA...They came in a brown box w/ a stickered part # and the bag said NISSAN!!! I get a good deal on quality parts... But this is a ridiculously low price. I've had them installed, by me, for about 5 months and they are performing very well. Now I'm going to see how well they hold up to a small block.
I want your roll pan.
I see you have a/c... Need any parts for that? I'm only going to use the fan air box and the top side ducting. I took it apart the right way. Had it tested and evacuated. AND I didn't break anything so its all good.

[fastboatman29212]

Visiotech,
There is an '86 720 reg cab 4X2 at the local parts yard. Do you need anything specific? Something that won't be a headache to ship?

[noface]

I'd like a referral to the seller of said balljoints... evidently I suck at the search feature on ebay, since nothing comes up for Nissan 720's, and I need balljoints in the worst way, and for 40 bucks... I can't pass that up either!

[fastboatman29212]

link for ball joints on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 5919wt_982

[Aven]

Try searching for Datsun 720 or Datsun truck.

[86 720]

That is a crazy a** price for both sets of front ball joints. If mine hadn't been done by the previous owner, i'd be buying those and doing them myself.

I would recommend taking pictures and creating a thread of the process. I try to make threads on replacement parts so other members can benefit as well. You can check out my build thread in my signature.

Keep the pictures coming!

[fastboatman29212]

Thanks for the feedback about posting a "How to replace Ball Joints" thread. I will do it. Today I finished most of the passenger side installation. I have a few photos but will take better ones when I do the driver's side install. Then I will post a thread. I will need feedback because I don't want to give inaccurate info to people. You see, I'm JUST NOW learning to be a DIY mechanic, so I have a lot to learn. Anyway, here are just a few shots of the bad Ball Joints so you can see just how BAD they were! LOL!!!







NEW BALL JOINTS