arp stud broke in head . . . im ****ed . . . ideas . . . blocks?
arp stud broke in head . . . im ****ed . . . ideas . . . blocks?
yep dunno how.torque wrench kept goingused it on a lug nut to make sure it wasnt broken
**** you torque wrench.**** me too.
this is depressing. im going to try a machine shop, if no luck, anyone got a block?
gotta act fast.
Re: arp stud broke in head . . . im ****ed . . . ideas . . . blocks? (jt15833)
Just get a screw remover.
It'll get it out.
It'll get it out.
Re: (DALAZ_68)
whatd u do with the tap set? im going to tow it to a machine shop let them **** with it.
saddens me so much.
also ordering stock hardware.
and a good torque wrench.
saddens me so much.
also ordering stock hardware.
and a good torque wrench.
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MeanGreenS13
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Re: (r34 gtr)
holy **** resize the picture yo! lol that sucks man, it can be removed tho
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themadscientist
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Re: (MeanGreenS13)
How the hell could you break that? What were you torquing it too?
Re: (themadscientist)
80ft lbs the first 5 clicked great then this one not as fast, so i tested the wrench on a lug and it clicked right away, assumed the wrench was good.
also when i was torquing this #6 nut did not seem to be at 80ft-lbs i do not know why it broke.
this blowsssssssssss
also when i was torquing this #6 nut did not seem to be at 80ft-lbs i do not know why it broke.
this blowsssssssssss
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themadscientist
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Re: (jt15833)
I think ARP needs to explain this. I can see no reason why such a pedestrian amount of torque would snap a stud supposedly capable of withstanding 190000 PSI of force.
Re: (themadscientist)
this is what i thought. even looking at the top part of the stud where the failure occurred looked suspicious...
when i retrieve the other piece i am going to my failure analysis guy @ work to check it out
when i retrieve the other piece i am going to my failure analysis guy @ work to check it out
Re: (r34 gtr)
i feel like just takin pics and send em to them in a email no words. just to express how speechless i am.
thing is i cleaned the threads and used moly engine assembly lube too. i ordered new bolts, new washers, and new valve cover gaskets courtesyparts.com for 98 shipped.
oh ya anyone notice putting washers on the head with the head ontop of block and ARP studs installed is MFing impossible? im guessing the washers need to be put on the head then the head dropped on.
bolts make for an easier install anyhow...
thing is i cleaned the threads and used moly engine assembly lube too. i ordered new bolts, new washers, and new valve cover gaskets courtesyparts.com for 98 shipped.
oh ya anyone notice putting washers on the head with the head ontop of block and ARP studs installed is MFing impossible? im guessing the washers need to be put on the head then the head dropped on.
bolts make for an easier install anyhow...
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r34 gtr
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Magnet on a stick works wonders for installing washers too.
EDIT: Okay, nevermind the magnet on a stick, heres how you do it. Load the washer onto a small-shanked phillips screwdriver. Holding the screwdriver more or less as horizontal as you can, fit the end down into the allan-head recess thing in the head stud. Then lift the screwdriver up to vertical, and with a little coaxing the washer should slide right on. DO NOT put them on and then try and place the head down on the studs, one or more of the washers is guaranteed to fall down into the head, and possibly into the block, which would be a horrible job to get out.
EDIT: Okay, nevermind the magnet on a stick, heres how you do it. Load the washer onto a small-shanked phillips screwdriver. Holding the screwdriver more or less as horizontal as you can, fit the end down into the allan-head recess thing in the head stud. Then lift the screwdriver up to vertical, and with a little coaxing the washer should slide right on. DO NOT put them on and then try and place the head down on the studs, one or more of the washers is guaranteed to fall down into the head, and possibly into the block, which would be a horrible job to get out.
Re: (r34 gtr)
i dont even know if your method would work for all of the washers with ARP studs, they were incredible bishez to get on.
another reason why headbolts +1
another reason why headbolts +1
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Flicktitty
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Re: (themadscientist)
X2 man, call up ARP and see what the deal is.
themadscientist wrote:How the hell could you break that? What were you torquing it too?
Re: (Flicktitty)
take the head back off. the stud will be less then finger tight in the block. you can get it out with your fingers or a simple broken stud extractor.
ARP have extraordinary tensile strength that is when they are pulled in manner that is normal to the stretching they are designed for.this kind of failure is most likely from a turning stress which the stud isnt as strong and probably cant withstand more then 85flbs. I would be willing to bet this was a case of improper installation, not saying you don't know what you are doing, but it happens alot. did you properly sink the stud into the block following their guide? did you use Molly lube from ARP or engine lube or engine oil? they are not as stong as you might thing when they are being twisted on. Was your torque wrench set properly and has it been calibrated? I have seen techs set the wrenchs to 90lb and go at them and break them before. I use a digital snap-on unit that we have calibrated every few months so this stuff wont happen.
This is a easy fix nothing to get worried over should only take a few mins to sort out once you get a new stud from ARP. i would also check that 6th stud to see if its screwed up. Did you follow the proper sequence on the head? including stepping up the torque in a 20-40-60-80 or similar sequence?
ARP have extraordinary tensile strength that is when they are pulled in manner that is normal to the stretching they are designed for.this kind of failure is most likely from a turning stress which the stud isnt as strong and probably cant withstand more then 85flbs. I would be willing to bet this was a case of improper installation, not saying you don't know what you are doing, but it happens alot. did you properly sink the stud into the block following their guide? did you use Molly lube from ARP or engine lube or engine oil? they are not as stong as you might thing when they are being twisted on. Was your torque wrench set properly and has it been calibrated? I have seen techs set the wrenchs to 90lb and go at them and break them before. I use a digital snap-on unit that we have calibrated every few months so this stuff wont happen.
This is a easy fix nothing to get worried over should only take a few mins to sort out once you get a new stud from ARP. i would also check that 6th stud to see if its screwed up. Did you follow the proper sequence on the head? including stepping up the torque in a 20-40-60-80 or similar sequence?