ARP head bolt giving me F@*%ken problems

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
DALAZ_68
Posts: 1574
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:01 pm
Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

Post

so finishing up the engine rebuild i ran into probably the last thing i wanted to see happen
one of the ARP head bolts was not screwing all the way in...the front right bolt was just not screwing all the way in...which is ridiculous


as you can see on the closest right bolt...its higher by about almost a 1/4
Image

the final bolt isnt lining up with the rest...

i shot some brake cleaner and pb blaster in there to clean it out, still no go...even shoved a tap kit in there and still nothing...the bolt wont go further, the threads on the original wernt rusted or crossed threaded...so anyone got any advice here...should i just try and keep screwing it down, or what...this is pissing me off... :tisk:

we test fitted the head and theres just enough thread to allow the head to be properly torqued down... but i dunno thoughts :confused:


User avatar
sjbsuperman1425
Posts: 2889
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2007 2:24 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx
CA18DET
Location: Bay City, MI
Contact:

Post

mine was like that too, its supposed to be like that. assemble like it is and have fun :)

User avatar
r34 gtr
Posts: 8909
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 9:33 am
Car: 98 Nissan Frontier XE 4x4
95.5 Audi URS6 Avant 5spd
03 BMW 330i ZHP 6spd
89 Nissan 240SX base CA18DET
Location: Creepin' in your crawl space
Contact:

Post

Yeah buddy, that stud never sits all the way in. Not on any CA18. You will need to measure the clearance, but I had to put two washers on there to get the nut to properly tighten down on that stud.

DALAZ_68
Posts: 1574
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:01 pm
Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

Post

are you serious...well then...good things i did that...lol
Image

lol

User avatar
themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

Post

Did you use a bottoming tap? They are the same size and have cutters all the way to the end. If you use a standard tap, they are tapered at the end because they are designed to start with a hole not existing threads and need to ease their way in at first. As such, it would not chase the last threads at the bottom of the hole like a bottoming tap would.

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

That hole is above the water pump area, and as such, it can't be as deep as all the other holes. This isn't an issue in the stock bolts as they are short enough that you don't notice, but when you go to ARP head studs and the bolt bottoms out, it's quite noticable. The most common solution is to add some extra washers under that particular nut and call it good. It seems to vary greatly from engine to engine, as on mine, it's barely noticeable.

User avatar
s13drifter88
Posts: 1111
Joined: Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:40 am
Car: 93 S13 Coupe CA18DET (Money pit)
1996 D21 Hardbody (Work truck/daily)
!993 Del Sol (Daily)
1987 Pontiac GTA (Drag project, other money pit)
1989 SOHC S13 Buzz Car
Location: Huntsville, AL

Post

add 1 of the stock head stud washers on top of the ARP washer for that stud only. continue assembly, install and enjoy :dblthumb:
float we need a sticky for this exact thing. i know this isnt the first time many of us has seen this asked

DALAZ_68
Posts: 1574
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:01 pm
Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

Post

Sweet great to know...ill deff add a washer on there and push fowards...

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

I thought about it, but realized nobody reads them. LOL!

User avatar
float_6969
Moderator
Posts: 17366
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily)
Location: Topeka, Kansas
Contact:

Post

OK, I added a note about it in with the Part Number list.

DALAZ_68
Posts: 1574
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:01 pm
Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

Post

i hope its my thread...lol

i still havent gotten my title for my how too thread...lol

i think i still have one of the original washers...s*** going in... :)

blownhemi
Posts: 296
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 3:39 am
Car: S13 200SX CA18DET HX35
Location: Hungary, Eu.

Post

Euro head (w/ the Euro ARP part#) didnt have this problem. Is it so much different in that area?
Last edited by blownhemi on Tue Apr 26, 2011 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

DALAZ_68
Posts: 1574
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:01 pm
Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

Post

blownhemi wrote:Euro head (w/ the Euro ARP part#) didnt have this problem. Is it so much different in that area?
pfft who knows...a comparrison or measurement of both JDM and EDM bolts would be nice to see... :gapteeth:

Spawn_CA18
Posts: 142
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:36 am
Car: 1993 EDM Nissan 200SX S13 CA18DET & 1995 EDM Honda Civic Crx Del Sol EG2 B16A2
Location: Turkey/Istanbul

Post

i had the same "problem" as you .
just use extra washer thats all .

Image

User avatar
themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

Post

I would grind the stud shorter rather than stacking washers, but that's me.

Spawn_CA18
Posts: 142
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:36 am
Car: 1993 EDM Nissan 200SX S13 CA18DET & 1995 EDM Honda Civic Crx Del Sol EG2 B16A2
Location: Turkey/Istanbul

Post

themadscientist wrote:I would grind the stud shorter rather than stacking washers, but that's me.
from block side ? this make stud less capable to hold compression i think.

also studs are really solid parts. i think will be very hard to make it shorter.

all peoples are using long bolts like this . even 500bhp CA18det that we made is same like this. and no problem at all . :dblthumb:

User avatar
themadscientist
Posts: 26254
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:30 pm
Car: R32 GTR, DR30 RS Turbo, BRZ, Lunchbox, NSR50 Sportster 883 Iron
Location: Staring down at you with disdain from the spooky mountaintop castle.

Post

How? The stud is not screwed in all the way so any threads unused are no help. Might as well make it shorter and not stack two washers which is arguably going to increase the possibility of the stud and nut shifting around. Take two washers stacked and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as tight as you can and impart a bit of load like you are snapping your fingers. They slide right off each other don't they? A shortened stud alleviates the need for this setup.

I think my way is better, but the other way is not bad either, just not the way I would go.


Return to “CA18DE / CA18DET Forum”