What was so hard about doing it from the pan? thats what I was planning on doing!240RB! wrote: the plan was to not pull the motor and replace them in the car but after removing the pan in the car and saw/experienced the hassle of getting it out i ended up pullin the whole motor transmission and replacing them that way.
Just because its a DOHC motor does'nt mean it can't have rod knock. What weight oil do you run? just out of curiosity.jamesblonde82 wrote:Can't be a rod knock can it, they are overhead cams. Oh hello everyone!
ive been really busy with school, and my car has been running so perfectly for the last year im happy with my vert. although i do notice a bit of smoke when it idles for a bit and hit the gas now, no loss of power or anything to be concerned about though and no smoke any other times. just showin its 224k miles i suppose.krash wrote:
James, Where ya been?!
what else could be knocking if its not push rods? the piston arms? krash you did remove the chain guard right?Logan76 wrote:
Just because its a DOHC motor does'nt mean it can't have rod knock. What weight oil do you run? just out of curiosity.
ahhhh, that could be all that is wrong with it. (chain guard) it took me 3 seconds to remove mine haha... well it would have if i didnt feel like i also wanted to replace both tensioners for added caution.krash wrote:well, the chain guard didn't need to be removed yet. Oh, by rod I meant the thing in your avatar hahah
on both my verts is was loud as ish. so loud i used it to work me out a nice deal. it really does sound like there something seriously wrong with it. it only takes 15 mins to take the guard off, its worth a shot. also you can get a mechaninc's stethescope and touch it to the front upper part of the motor where the valve covers meets the part if bolts onto and it its loudest there then i beleive thats your problemkrash wrote:oh how I wish you were right.... you might be actually, I dunno, how loud is the sound from the timing chain?
the hard part about replacing them in the car is that when you lift the motor as much as possible without crushin/kinking various lines you still have to work around the front crossmember and the front swaybar. getting the pan out is a little hard to putting the pan back with a fresh bead of silicon would be very hard to not smear the bead allover casuing a bad seal.as far as the bearings go the first two rods are somewhat simple but when you get towards the 3+4 rods they are hovering over the crossmember so not much room there. It can be done i have a friend who accomplished it as well as other peeps on this forum but i would rather much pull the motor and make sure all is well. or get another motor:) good luck with whichever way you go.krash wrote:
What was so hard about doing it from the pan? thats what I was planning on doing
James, Where ya been?!