Hm. Couldn't find anything myself on a search.
I can give you a quick rundown on what needs to be done to replace the window. It's not fun.
Items you'll need:-Pneumatic Staple Gun (the heavy duty hand guns don't have enough power to punch into the tack strip)-Suitable staples-A grease pen to make markings-Contact cement and brush-The new window (duh! )
Start with getting access to the tack strip-Remove the rear seat and interior panels-use grease pen to mark location of the topwell vinyl piece on the frame where your interior panels screw to and to the back of the seat brace-detach the 17 speed nuts and remove the topwell
Get your trusty penetrating oil out and blast the nuts holding the tack strip in place. When doing my friend's top, we snapped one of those studs off cause of rust, so save yourself some heartache by cutting through it now.
Remove said nuts.
I can't remember if you have easy access to this or not, but there's a set screw on the #4 bow on the bottomside that holds the rear window drape frmo shifting left <-> right. If you need to, remove the #4 bow headliner retainer strip to get to the screw.
Next, make marks to locate the big sections of the top to the tack strip. You'll want to mark the center line of the rear drape and make marks for where the rear sails of the top line up to the tack strip AND the rear drape as well as the long backlight straps. Also make a line for where the top of the tack strip should be.
Remove the staples for the pertinent stuff off of the tack strip.
You may have to release the #4 bow retainer for the top to get enough room to remove the drape. To do so, shift one of the tack strips on the #4 bow down and with a drift and hammer, knock the spacer out that is wedging the top to the bow. You'll probably need to grab it with pliers once you have enough room.
You should be able to slide the drape out at this point.
Transfer your lines from the old drape to the new one and just reinstall.
Now, you may have to remove the 1/4 window seals to get the top to peel back enough for room. If you do, there are three nuts in the seal to remove, and then all you have to do is break the cement bond for the top to the top frame.
When you reapply the contact cement, put some on the cloth to be adhered, and some on the spot it'll be sticking to. Then hold it in place for a few minutes to let it get tacky and stick.
I know pics would be very helpful, and I may have missed something. I'm just going off of memory on what needs to be done. I can try to scan in some parts of my FSM this evening to give you a clearer idea of what needs to be done.
Post # 5555 for no apparent reason
