are these symptoms of a bad CAS (i have searced a TON)

[ceniack]

k, car starts, idles fine, however i have these problems/quirks:

car won't rev past 3k rpms and it is slow to get there at that (already checked MAF)throwing code 11 (cas)when i go to start my car, the tach jumps around like a jack russell terrier and then levels out once it gets running (read in the FSM that it gets the tach signal from the CAS)when i try to adjust the CAS to set the timing, i can't even loosten the 3 bolts without it just killing the car

and then my second question

which CAS's interchnge with the JDM ca18det

i have heard z32 and then pulsar NX

and then my third, question, anyone have an extra CAS

thanks

-terry

[dattodude]

The guts of a Z32 might work, as MIGHT an RB25DET or RB26DETT one, but you'd need to swap trigger discs, which is like micro surgery. I had to do it when I installed the autronic trigger disc in my CA18 CAS unit.

Try and find a CA18DE/DET one. Either on Ebay or at the wreckers.

Good Luck.

Also, I have this CAS testing diagram, which might help you figure if it's buggered. I reproduced the schematic diagram and parts list out of Zoom Magazine (australian). I haven't built this myself, haven't needed to yet :-)

[r34 gtr]

and if you cant find one in about 2 weeks time you are welcome to mine. it wont be free but itll be close.

[float_6969]

Yes, as others have stated, a CA18DE from a pulsar will work, or pick one up on eBay.

[ceniack]

checked ebay, couldn't find one, went ahead and ordered one from autozone 250 shipped, but it has a lifetime warranty :-D

i hope to god it fixes it, i'll know wendsday.

[ceniack]

muther;ljasd;lkjdaklf;uo8ieur

new CAS didn't fix the problem

anyone have any idea what would cause this??!?!?!?

i pulled the upper timing cover, and checked to make sure the timing wasn't off. i lined it up the cam marks, and then lined up the crank pully with the TDC notch.

another thing i was reading about was a CAS key or something on the exhaust cam, and is that replaceable, and how do i check it?
Modified by ceniack at 9:01 PM 11/14/2006

[float_6969]

Do you have the FSM DL'd? If not, please do so. If so, then go to pages EF & EC 82-83. That is the trouble diagnosis section for the CAS. That should be able to help you get started. Also see EF & EC 124.

[ceniack]

thanks, i had been looking for the diagnostics procedure forever, must have missed it for some reason, also, anyone kow if a multimeter can act as a logic probe? and if not, know where i can get one? (radio shack maybe?)

[float_6969]

Yea, if I understand correctly, a logic probe is just a continuity tester w/a light basically. As far as that part of it is concerned though you know you're OK, because you've got a brand new CAS on there. I highly suspect a bad ground/bad ECU relay. What has changed from before that it used to work and now it doesn't? Oh, and have you tried sticking a timing light on it to see what kind of timing you're running?

[ceniack]

well, i just put the CA in the car, so the motor, ecu, and harness have changed, i havn't changed anything else however.

i tried to time it with the old CAS and i couldn't get it to time, all i had to do was touch the CAS with the bolts loose and it would kill the car and it seemed to jump around a bit. but for the most part was retaredd about 5 degrees (so 10 degrees btdc)

tomorrow after class i am going to follow the FSM diagnostic procedures.

say a little prayer to the CA gods that i get it figured out lol

another thing, that new CAS i got was crazy hard to actually get to fit in (had to sand down on the CAS and the upper timing cover a little bit to get it to slide in, and it still seemed way tight (like nearly impossible to adjust)

i checked the part number on the CAS i had, and the new CAS and it was the same.

[dattodude]

Is the timing cover and it's respective backing plate installed properly?This is known to snap cas shafts, and the locating pin inside the exhaust cam.

Sounds like you are having a world of pain and trouble with something that generally just works, have you look at the CAS loom and traced it back to the ECU pinouts?

This car is possessed..I'm sure of it.

EDIT: ps. The diagram above is a schematic for a CAS test logic probe. Just requires some soldering and some heatshrink. CAS devices are trigger high and trigger low type devices, not measureable with most multimeters. You need a logic probe or a CRO. I used a CRO to debug my own CAS problems.

[ceniack]

yeah, i am sure it is installed properly, it is the outer diameter of the CAS that keeps it from going in (only on the new one, not the one i had with my motorset)

i confirmed it when i took off the upper timing cover

-terry

[ceniack]

k, checked the continuity, good accross the board, checked timing, spot on at 15* BTDC, checked the timing marks, they are good, i don't think i would have gotten a bad CAS...

it idles perfectly at 850 rpms.

still throwing a code 11. the only thing i can think of is my ECU, or maybe my tune i burned was botched or something (problem when actually burning the chip)

*shrug* anyone have any more suggestions?

*edit*where is the ECU relay?

*edit*also, just to make sure i am doing this right, to check the codes, i turn the key to the on position, wait for the both the red and the green lights on the ECU to flash 3 times quickly, and then turn the screw all the way clockwise to read the code, then after i read the code, turn it back.

i also noticed when i do this, that both lights will flash twice real slow, and then do the 3 fast flashes

*edit*

also, the only mods i can think of that would cause this is the ROM tune, the z32 maf (i have double checked my wiring), and the 450cc injectors.

Modified by ceniack at 1:29 AM 11/16/2006
Modified by ceniack at 1:30 AM 11/16/2006

[float_6969]

Whoa, this is the first mention of a burned ECU that I've heard of. That would have been the first thing that I went back to. Do you have the stock chip still? It is quite possible that you have a bad burn. That can cause all sorts of problems. Are you sure that when you soldered in the socket that you don't have any touching traces or anything?

[ceniack]

yeah,i have the stock chip still, i have put it in and it was worse, i don't have the stock injectors to put in it as the motorset came with the 450cc injectors. i am about 99% sure that the leads arn't touching anything they arnt' supposed to.

would the fact that it is an automatic ECU cause any of these problems?

sorry for not mentioning the ECU earlier, i could have sworn i had mentioned it before

also, i am using the 28c256 eeproms for my ecu, and just burning the rom to the upper and lower half of the chip.

[float_6969]

You don't have a SAFC or anything like that do you? Also, IDK, if it's possible, but if you've got anyone local than you can swap ECU's with you might try that.

[ceniack]

no safc, and unfortuatly i am the only one in the area i know of with a CA18

i am going to try and burn a different chip and see if that helps

-terry

[r34 gtr]

if you are still out of luck in a week ill have a whole setup up for grabs (if i dont screw something up). tuned ecu, converted harness, safcII, z32 maf, coilpacks, ignitor, cas... its all on the car and the car runs fine right now. it wont be cheap, but it may be worth it.

edit: and yeah, it would have been alot easier if i had known you had a chipped ecu. thats the thing i would suspect first! go re-burn the chip or use someone else's ecu...

[ceniack]

when i am burning the chip, all i do is set the jumper and dip settings to how it says on the willems program, put the chip in, make sure it is empty, load the bin, and then write the bin to the chip, and then in the case of burning to a 28c256 chip change the offset to the first empty address that is left on the chip, and burn again correct?

[ceniack]

SHE LIVES!!!!!

and i feel like a moron

[float_6969]

No, no, no, no. You can't do something stupid and not tell us about it. Come on, it's for the greater good of the community!

[ceniack]

lol, it is sooo freaking embarasing.

i had stuffed a couple of shop towels in te turbo inlet when i was working on a few things on the car to make sure nothing dropped in there by accadent, well when i went to put the intercooler piping on, i pulled one of them out, forgetting about the other one. it was keeping air from comming into engine, and i think it was running so rich, that the car kept trying to advance the timing and had advanced it as far as it could go and probably caused the CAS code

so now i just have to button it up and drive it to the exhaust shop to get the rest of my exhaust hooked up to the downpipe, and an o2 bung put in for my wideband, and then get an alignment from when i put my hicas rack in

[c-rad]

lol, it is sooo freaking embarasing.

i had stuffed a couple of shop towels in te turbo inlet when i was working on a few things on the car to make sure nothing dropped in there by accadent, well when i went to put the intercooler piping on, i pulled one of them out, forgetting about the other one. it was keeping air from comming into engine, and i think it was running so rich, that the car kept trying to advance the timing and had advanced it as far as it could go and probably caused the CAS code

hahahaha.... $hit happens...

[float_6969]

LOL, that's prob the best one I've heard yet. Good times....

[ceniack]

yeah, when i saw that i was like

"i-i-i'm dumb."

such a newb mistake

[jjwettig]

do you still have your old cas? it sounds like the shaft inside snapped. if you still have it how much do you want for it? i may be able to repair mine with parts from yours.

thanks jeremy