are these comprsseion numbers ok for fresh rings?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
driftmyke
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ok so i got my clip from venus auto and i just put in new piston rings and a new headgasket and i hot wires the starter so i can make sure im making compression before i put the motor in the car, so i hook up the compression meter to each cyclinder and every cylinder gets 150 +- 1psi, when i put the rings in i put oil all around the cylinder walls and all around the piston when i installed them. and i did not hone the cylinder walls because they all looked to be good. so are these ok numbers for new rings?

thanks


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Coolwhip
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ah, sounds a tad bit low considering that you have a good bit of oil on top of the piston.

My question is: Why wouldn't you toss a $50 honing stone on the walls before installing new piston rings?

Anyways, what motor is this? Interested on what rings you got and where you got them from.

driftmyke
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this is a rb20det. man dont tell me that. i didnt hone it because i didnt see it as nessicary, i dont want to mess with anything if i didnt have to.

so what do u think im still good to through the motor in and hope that the numbers come up to normal?

haha i search for rings for soooooooo long you have no idea, but im a nice guy so heres the link to the rings

https://www.compulsivehp.com/c...age=1

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Carl H
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gotta hone ANY motor even if its a ball hone...gotta scuff the walls up somehow so the rings can wear and seat.numbers normaly go up once the motor has been run and is warm...mine measures 170 hot.

Adrian gt
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Carl H wrote:gotta hone ANY motor even if its a ball hone...gotta scuff the walls up somehow so the rings can wear and seat.numbers normaly go up once the motor has been run and is warm...mine measures 170 hot.
what he said

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Coolwhip
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Yea i know complusive has RB20 rings, just was interested maybe you came across a RB25 set.


rb25drag
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I have to Disagree with all of you!!!! You only hone an engine if there is surface rust, a groove, or if the cylinder is worped from top of bottom. Mostly just to clean up the cylinders, Not to make grooves in them, And if you hone with a hard grit too much you end up taking material off the cylinder walls and actually boring it.

If the cylinder walls were perfectly smooth absolutely no reason for honing.

I hope you did check for cylinder wear?

150 is a little low, I would think 160-180 should be right. But since its solid 150 it should be ok.

Just work with what you have, They should wear in.


driftmyke
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rb25drag wrote:I have to Disagree with all of you!!!! You only hone an engine if there is surface rust, a groove, or if the cylinder is worped from top of bottom. Mostly just to clean up the cylinders, Not to make grooves in them, And if you hone with a hard grit too much you end up taking material off the cylinder walls and actually boring it.

If the cylinder walls were perfectly smooth absolutely no reason for honing.

I hope you did check for cylinder wear?

150 is a little low, I would think 160-180 should be right. But since its solid 150 it should be ok.

Just work with what you have, They should wear in.
thanks for the info, thats what i though about only honing if there is a problem.

well i figure stock brand new compression is 174 hot, so 150 solid cold should atleast come up to 170 after they are broken in right?

speaking of breaking in how should i break the new rings in?

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Coolwhip
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I personally always drive on them as if they will be driven on later (but not to the full extent).

What that means is if your going to be boosting, then boost on the newly built engine so that the rings can seat correctly to the way the engine is to respond to pressure.

But that doesn't mean burn outs and 2step out the hole or all day racing. When I usually reach 4th gear speed I will take a pull on the engine to get to max boost and then slowly let off. Avoid long highway drives at one constant level aka cruise control type driving.

Your engine should experience moderate driving during the first couple hundred miles.

Hope that helps, don't really know what the other guys do but I have had luck using that method various of times.

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Carl H
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i broke my motor in on 14psi out of the 30r...she's doing fine well cept for the freeking oil leak thru the valvestem seal which BROKE.

rb25drag
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If you wanna break in your motor, Make sure everything is running 100%. Then take it out for a few boost runs, Red line it 2-3 times, Then take it home change the oil due to the metal chips. Then drive it moderately easy for 500 miles, change the oil again and it should be ready for action.

240z4u
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You really can't throw some types of rings into a motor.

Total seal is very specific about crosshatch pattern to seat in the rings.

Evan

Darius
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Yeah best practice is to hone the cylinders for new rings to improve the seating characteristics. The same instructions came with my CP's.

Compulsive Horsepower
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I always hone the cylinders before installing rings. I don't use the three prong hone with the stones I like using a bottle brush hone just because thats what I was taught to use. This with a proper break in will seat the rings best.

But with what Darius said about his CP Pistons installation it is always best to follow the manufactures recommendation of installing their products.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Ser...g.htm

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Ser...e.htm
Modified by Compulsive Horsepower at 9:47 AM 10/25/2007


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