apexi safc ii tuning help rb20det

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
teamloco
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Anyone know what the hotwire setting ect is for this thing?

I have an N62 maf and a stock RB20 ecu.

We were messing with the settings and now it runs like poo.

I'm new to the safcII and the manual is ****. Is there a way to recall a previous setting as the car was running fine before my old man started messing with it.

We set the hot wire to 2in and 3out. Now it sputters at higher rpm (timing may be off too btw but not that off). Any one have any experience with rb20det's with an safcii and an 300zx maf?

I tried the search function and read through a ton of install threads but none on actually tuning it.


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Carl H
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maf sensors are listed in the install manual with all the ecu plugs.

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BoostFab
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teamloco wrote:Anyone know what the hotwire setting ect is for this thing?

I have an N62 maf and a stock RB20 ecu.

We were messing with the settings and now it runs like poo.

I'm new to the safcII and the manual is ****. Is there a way to recall a previous setting as the car was running fine before my old man started messing with it.

We set the hot wire to 2in and 3out. Now it sputters at higher rpm (timing may be off too btw but not that off). Any one have any experience with rb20det's with an safcii and an 300zx maf?

I tried the search function and read through a ton of install threads but none on actually tuning it.
HOTWIRE set to: 2-IN 4-OUT.

2 = z32 maf4 = r32 rb20det ecu

application reference: http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/16.pdf

rb25drag
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What is the Hotwire setting for rb25 out?

I don't have a manual either.

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BoostFab
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rb25drag wrote:What is the Hotwire setting for rb25 out?

I don't have a manual either.
r32, r33, r34 skyline with rb20det and rb25det uses the same hotwire value.

source : http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/46.pdf

rb25drag
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Thanks sir

teamloco
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It doesn't have rb20det listed in the applications. Ill try 2 in 4 out and see if that works better.

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BoostFab
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teamloco wrote:It doesn't have rb20det listed in the applications. Ill try 2 in 4 out and see if that works better.
look on my second link. what else do you need to know! i already gave you the hot wire #'s.

teamloco
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It seems to be running much better. After you set the hot wire to 2 in 4 out, It has another setting you have to set up. Is like sensor cal i think and from what i gather i set it to 1 and 1.

Sorry if these are total noob questions but like I said I have no experience with this thing.

Thanks for your help so far.

My major issue is i'm idleing at like 1500-1700 which is way freaking high (i think it should idle at 650 +/- 50. We set the idle set screw on the AAC all the way in and it still idles like this. My timing gun broke so i wasn't able to set the timing.

When I failed emission for the NOx portion everyone on AZ240sx said to check my timing. I'm trying to figure out if the safcII has something to do with my running super lean and failing NOx and I'm also trying to figure out why my idle is so high.
Modified by teamloco at 1:11 AM 6/25/2008

silviasgp06
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Car: 95 Nissan Zenki RB25 Powered

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if you didnt buy the safc new, you need to initialize it, just in case you or the previous owner messed with it. after you initialize it set the in out as stated above.

on the emissions testing...

did you have a cat on?i dont know about the emissions test but i know you should always fail the visual part of the test cause the rb does not have an egr.

texas emissions stuff is pretty strict, its almost impossible to pass a motor, with out tuning it to do so, problem is most inspection stations will not allow you to do diagnostic or test emission runs to mess with fuel and timing to get it to pass.

if they only allowed us to do so it would be awesome, cause i had a friend with an sr that had messed up timing and a cat and it passed the test legally with no money under the table.


teamloco
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I passed the visual, failed Nox by alot : 3.29/2.50 passed everything else way easy.

P.s. im running a brand new catco 3"
Modified by teamloco at 2:42 PM 6/25/2008

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Carl H
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problem is the high idle...not the cat or timing.

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BoostFab
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teamloco wrote: We set the idle set screw on the AAC all the way in and it still idles like this. My timing gun broke so i wasn't able to set the timing.
did you adjust the iac selenoid correctly ?

first start up to warm the motor; turn it off; unplug the tps, start the car, then adjust the iac screw.

teamloco
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Do i unplug the brown connector to the aac or just the tps. Because we did this last night and weren't able to get it to idle below 1200. The adjust screw is all the way in as i posted previously. When I back it out the thing idles at over 2k

silviasgp06
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oh i assumed the high idle was just him not setting the rpm needle right, i just forgot to ask if he did or not. and we dont test NOX at idle in Texas so it didnt click in my head.


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Carl H
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where are you getting your rpm signal, safc or stock tach?

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BoostFab
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teamloco wrote:Do i unplug the brown connector to the aac or just the tps. Because we did this last night and weren't able to get it to idle below 1200. The adjust screw is all the way in as i posted previously. When I back it out the thing idles at over 2k
yes, unplug the brown plug. also check the tension on the throttle cable.

teamloco
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Carl H wrote:where are you getting your rpm signal, safc or stock tach?
Stock Skyline 8k tach and safcII read the same.

teamloco
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BoostFab wrote:yes, unplug the brown plug. also check the tension on the throttle cable.
Throttle cable is taut, no slack in it. I was thinking maybe some one had messed with the adjustment on the cable too. Ill have to check it out tonight.

I just got an AUS version of the FSM for the R32. Ill have to see if there is a diagnosis you can run to see if the AAC is working ect.

Thanks for the help guys.

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BoostFab
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teamloco wrote:
Throttle cable is taut, no slack in it. I was thinking maybe some one had messed with the adjustment on the cable too. Ill have to check it out tonight.

I just got an AUS version of the FSM for the R32. Ill have to see if there is a diagnosis you can run to see if the AAC is working ect.

Thanks for the help guys.
the point is if the throttle cable has too much tensions, it will cause throttle to be higher. try loosen it all the way and see if it let you adjust idling better. make sure the motor is warm.

TwinCityTech
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I have the same high idling problem on my rb20- hooked up consult 2 and found that my closed throttle position sensor signal isnt being sent to the ECU. Havent had time to fix it but it might b a place u need to start. BTW do those hotwire numbers work for the SAFC 1????

teamloco
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BoostFab wrote:the point is if the throttle cable has too much tensions, it will cause throttle to be higher. try loosen it all the way and see if it let you adjust idling better. make sure the motor is warm.
Cool thanks, ill try that tonight.

craz4240
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Setting the idle switch is easy.Also if you can adjust the iac screw all the way in with no change there is likely a vacum leak.

teamloco
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The IAC screw is all the way in to get it to 1200 rpm... i back it out and it goes up so the adjustment works but just wont drop the idle below 1200rpm. There are no vac leaks. We check and rechecked them.

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Carl H
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sounds like the idle switch isnt closed then...

craz4240
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Carl H wrote:sounds like the idle switch isnt closed then...

teamloco
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It passed!

I put 2 bottles of Isopropyl Alcohol 91% and my nox when down to 0.54

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drifter92sx
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Car: 92' S13 fastback seriesII Rb20det

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BoostFab wrote:
HOTWIRE set to: 2-IN 4-OUT.

2 = z32 maf4 = r32 rb20det ecu

application reference: http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/16.pdf
hey so if you runnin the stoc maf the hotwire settings should be 4 in 4 out on a safc 1?


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