APEXi POWER FC **Frequently Asked Questions**

[ArmadaJspec]

Apexi PowerFC FAQ - Frequently Asked QuestionsUpdated: 11:40 PM 16/04/2008What's changed since the last update?

Unit Information 1. What does the unit do? 2. What cars is the PowerFC supported on? 3. What cars is the PowerFC not supported on? 4. What does the unit look like? 5. What are all the menus and functions on the unit?? 6. Is there a menu roadmap? 7. Does the unit work on my N/A car? 8. Does the unit work on manual and auto cars? 9. How much does the unit cost? 10. When I buy the PowerFC what comes in the box? 11. Why would I want to buy a PowerFC?

Model Information 12. What model do I need? (Version Matrix) 13. What is an "AP Engineering model" and do I need it? 14. What is the "D-Jetro" model and do I need it? 15. What is the "Power FC Pro" model and do I need it? 16. What other optional parts are available for the PowerFC? 17. Is the PowerFC Pro Discontinued? 18. Hybrid Apexi PowerFC models and mix n match models, can it be done? 19. Apexi LJetro Vs Apexi Djetro - Whats the deal?? 20. Apexi PowerFC Djetro PRO - Does it exist??? 21. Why buy a PowerFC? Aren't they discontinued???? 22. What's the Apexi D1 Limited Edition Hand Controller? 23. Is there an English manual? a PDF copy? English translation? 24. I have the older PowerFC that did not come with a hand controller can I buy a new hand controller separate and use that?

Considerations before use 25. Does the PowerFC run the whole car or do I need controllers for... (Aircon, Lights, ABS etc...) 26. Does the PowerFC have limits? 27. What are the basic mods I should have when I get my PowerFC 28. Are there any cool tricks with the PowerFC? Free mods etc? 29. How does the PowerFC compare with the Apexi SAFC, AVCR and other Apexi computers? 30. Apexi SAFC vs Apexi PowerFC, whats the difference? 31. How does the AVC-R compare to the PowerFC boost controller kit?

Installation 32. How do I install the PowerFC? 33. Basic Hand Controller functions and use 34. Help! My car doesn't start once I've installed the PowerFC 35. Once the PowerFC is installed can I expect any better performance or does it HAVE to be tuned? 36. Can I drive around without it being tuned for a few days? Months? ? 37. Help! My car doesn't idle once I've installed the PowerFC

Basic Operation 38. Basic Hand Controller functions and use - Monitoring 39. Basic Hand Controller functions and use - Checking Functions 40. Basic Hand Controller functions and use - Checking Sensors

Advanced Operation 41. Are there any hidden/secret features? Stuff you can't access by the Hand Controller 42. Does the PowerFC have any laptop hook up options or software 43. What does the PowerFC support in terms of modifications? 44. What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter 45. How do I configure larger injectors? 46. How do I setup a larger scale map sensor? 47. PowerFC Pro - Launch Control

Advanced Operation - Optional Kits for the PowerFC 48. How do I hook up the optional Boost Controller kit? 49. How do I configure the optional Boost Controller Kit? 50. How do I hook up the D-Jetro Map Sensor Harness Kit? 51. Replacement or upgradable Map Sensors for the Boost Control Kit / Djetro Kit?

Tuning Information 52. Where can I get my PowerFC tuned and how much will it cost me? 53. Can I tune the car myself? 54. What is Map Tracer? Is it useful? 55. My fuel economy is terrible and I just had a complete tune, Whats wrong? 56. Self Tuning - Ignition Timing 57. What are the percentages for my airflow voltages for? 58. Is there a way or guesstimation to calculate AFR's based on the INJ values? 59. I always have knocking, is it true, is it lies or is something wrong? 60. How do I debug knocking, how can I make it go away?

Technical Issues 61. What do the strange sensor names mean? 62. Why does my engine light flash when I drive with the PowerFC 63. My idle is really crappy and it hunts around a lot when on idle. What can I do 64. I am seeing on my Map Tracer that I am reaching load point 19-20 on full throttle. I am maxing out the PowerFC! What can I do 65. When I turn my car off I loose any changes on the PowerFC! Help!! 66. When I turn my car on I get a clicking relay noise and the hand controller dies 67. My car won't start when I plug in the PowerFC, but the stock ecu works fine 68. My Skyline R32 GTR has a wierd misfire problem, what's wrong? 69. I have fried my PowerFC. Is it fixable? 70. My Hand Controller freezes at the Apexi Logo. Why???

Unsupported Features 71. Airtemp sensor on unsupported car? 72. Boost display without the Boost Control Kit? 74. Can you reflash the PowerFC with new code and/or different versions of the Apexi code? 75. Are there any cool custom hacks, hand controller holders, DIY rewiring you can do? 76. Is there a replacement hand controller screen? 77. Can I use 95ron octane fuel (non premium)? 78. Poor mans antilag?? 79. Boot up diagnostic?? 80. Can I have a lumpy 'cammed' idle? 81. Ford Falcon XF Throttle body with the PowerFC 82. Piggybacking the PowerFC with another ECU 83. I want to go EPROM/Firmware hacking, Tell me how 84. Replacement Air Temp sensor?

Datalogit System 85. What is Datalogit? 86. What does Datalogit do, is there a feature list? 87. What does the box look like and what's inside it? 88. Do you really need to have it or is the Hand Controller OK? 89. Where did you get it from and can I buy one? What is support like? 90. Datalogit Yahoogroups!

External Resources 91. Car Forums - New Celica - Advanced Datalogit Tuning 92. Car Forums - RX7Club.com 93. Car Forums - Evolutionm.net 94. Apexi PowerFC Wikipedia 95. Datalogit Yahoogroups!

Notes 96. Autospeed review of the Apexi PowerFC 97. A Note about the PowerFC FAQ 98. A Note from the author 99. Apexi Officially Bankrupt 100. Change Log

What does the unit do?The unit is a full replacement ECU for your factory computer. It is not a piggyback system and as such allows full control of the engine and computer controlled systems. It comes with a base map of your cars computer with base map tuned for basic mods such as exhaust, boost controller, air filter upgrade. "The Power FC is a complete, stand alone, total engine management system capable of handling virtually anything thrown in its path." - http://www.apexi-usa.com

What cars is the PowerFC supported on?

Standard Versions

# Honda Civic Type R 97/6-98/8# Honda Integra Type R 95/9-01/6# Mazda RX7 Series 1-3 91/12-95/11# Mazda RX7 Series 4 95/12-98/12# Mazda RX7 Series 5 99/1-00/9# Mitsubishi Evo V 98/1 - 98/12# Mitsubishi Evo VI 99/1-01/1# Mitsubishi Evo VII 01/2 - 02/3# Mitsubishi Evo VIII (EVO VII PFC + 4E73G013 EVO VIII Harness) - VIII MR might not be supported# Nissan RPS13 (Black Head) 94/1 - 96/7# Nissan RPS13 (Black Head) 96/8 - 99/1# Nissan RPS13 (Red Head) 91/1 - 93/12# Nissan S13 Red Top 91/1 - 93/9# Nissan S14 93/10 - 96/5# Nissan S14 96/6 - 98/12# Nissan S15 99/1 - 02/7# Nissan Skyline BNR32/BCNR33# Nissan Skyline BNR34# Subaru WRX Ver1,2 92/11-96/8# Subaru WRX Ver3,4 96/9-98/8# Subaru WRX Ver5,6 98/9-00/7# Totoya Mark II, Chaser & Cresta JZX100 manuel 96/9-01/7 1JZ-GTE# Toyota Altezza SXE10 01/5 3S-GE# Toyota Altezza SXE10 01/5 3S-GE# Toyota Altezza SXE10 98/10-01/4 3S-GE# Toyota Altezza SXE10 98/10-01/4 3S-GE# Toyota Celica ZZT231 99/9 - 2ZZ-GE# Toyota Mark II, Chaser & Cresta JZX100 Automatic 96/9-01/7 1JZ-GTE (Mark II only to 00/9)

Djetro Version

# Mitsubishi EVO V CP9A 4G63 98/1-98/12# Mitsubishi EVO VII CT9A 4G63 01/2- 02/3# Nissan 180SX RPS13 91/1-93/12 SR20DET (Red Head)# Nissan 180SX RPS13 94/1-96/7 SR20DET# Nissan 180SX RPS13 96/8-99/1 SR20DET# Nissan Silvia PS13 91/1-93/9 SR20DET(Red Head)# Nissan S15 SR20DET 99/1-02/7# Nissan Skyline BNR32/33 89/8 - 98/12# Nissan Skyline BNR34 99/1-02/8 RB26DETT

What cars is the PowerFC not supported on?Vehicles such as the Nissan Stagea are not supported however the Stage features a Skyline engine (either rb25de, rb25det, rb26dett) engine and standard computer, so a suitable PowerFC for same engine year/model *should* work fine engine/computer.

The Apexi PowerFC is purely an injector and ignition driver but is it suited around specific car models to suit their sensors and control signals. It is possible to make it work on other unlisted models or cars but it would require extensive re-wiring and/or sensor matching to make it work.

Vehicles such as the Nissan Skyline R33 GTST that feature the Active-LSD or A-LSD and SLIP function (lights on the dash and vspec diff) will suffer A-LSD compatibility problems. The car will operate correctly and the diff should as well however you will experience "A-LSD" error/failure intermittently. To date there is no known solution for this problem. It appears to be only present on the R33 RB25DET. There was a limited run of R33 known as the GTS25TML spec which is the M Spec with Active LSD. The diff is a skyline GTR vspec diff, electronically controlled LSD instead of a normal R33 diff. It features the same finned cover and A-LSD function as the Skyline GTR. The A-LSD and SLIP functions in the Skyline GTR with the Skyline BNR33 PowerFC work fine, only the ECR33 with ECR33 PowerFC is affected. See here for some discussion on the topic.

There is now an unofficial Fix for the A-LSD problem found in the ECR33 Skyline. Please click here to view how to fix it; Link

What does the unit look like?The PowerFC looks and is usually in the same ECU case as the standard ECU for your car. This is because it needs to use the same car loom adapter, same brakets etc so its usually the same physical shell & bolt holes for the ECU braket. The hand controller is a lightweight and ergonomic device with a backlit LCD screen. The screen is larger enough for most tuners and owners to use and operate. It includes enough functionality from the 4 main buttons and PREV and NEXT to control the car, make changes, update the tune etc. I would recommend all owners buy the PowerFC with the hand controller - It is very basic without the hand controller and you can't update/change anything.

This is the ECU and hand controller This is what the settings screens look like This is the unit's plug layout

What are all the menus and functions on the unit??Here is a function list of all available options from the Hand Controller.This is for every PowerFC version so you won't have some of these on your Hand Controller.

Note: Some items are not avaiable on various units (ie: PimVolt only on DJetro and Map Sensor versions)Note: Some factory items do not work - Airtemp on R33 GTST

MONITOR AirTemp - Air Temperature Airflow - Airflow Meter Voltage BatVolt - Battery Voltage Boost - Boost Pressure (Bar) Eng Rev - Engine RPM IgnT Ld - Ignition Leading (Rotary only) IgnTmng - Ignition Timing IngT Tr - Ignition Trailing (Rotary only) InjDuty - Injector Duty Knock - Knock Sensor PimVolt - Map Sensor Voltage (DJetro only) Speed - Speed KM/H WtrTemp - Water TemperatureSETTING Acceler. - Acceleration Enrichment Airflow - Airflow Meter Voltage Table Boost - Boost Pressure Cranking - Cold Start Cranking Table IGL Map - Ignition Leading Map (Rotary only) IGT Map - Ignition Trailing Map (Rotary only) Ign Map - Ignition Map Ign/Inj - Ignition and Injection Temporary Adjust Inj Map - Injection Map Injector - Injector Latency Pim Volt - Map Sensor Voltage Table (Djetrol Only) Rev/Idle - Rev and Idle Settings Wtr Temp - Water Temp Correction TableETC Prog. Version - Display PowerFC and Hand Controller version Sensor/SW check - Sensor check page Function Select - Function Select 02 F/B Control - O2 Sensor Feedback Control - Open/Closed Loop Airflow Warn - Airflow Meter Warning - 5v Peak (Engine check light) Boost Cntl Kit - Apexi Boost Control Kit Idle-IG Cntrl - Map Sensor Idle Logic (Djetro only) Injector Warn - Injector Warning (Engine check light) Knock Warning - Knock Sensor Warning LCD/LED adjust - Backlit display contrast adjust All Data Init. - Reset to Factory Defaults

Apexi went to great lengths to ensure you could control everything that a tuner would need with minimal fuss.The interface is very intuitive and easy to use. It appears as they didn't opt to include un-needed/un-necessary things such as monitoring oil pressure from the hand controller, oil temps, and other sorts of "nice to have features".

As these would add development cost, extra sensors etc. The unit is a very efficient plug and play unit for a very cheap and affordable price. Extra junk just adds development cost, which increases the price. So basically everything you need is via these menu's.

Is there a menu roadmap?For a menu road map check out the following picture, coutesy of Autospeed:



Does the unit work on my N/A car?It has been rumored the work with unconfirmed reports. The model however is still suited for the turbo version of the engine so timing, ignition, maps etc may be unsuitable. There are a few N/A PowerFC versions for the Honda etc so they do exist, its just more common for the turbocharged models.

Does the unit work on manual and auto cars?The PowerFC only supports manual cars (excluding Toyota). It will work on an automatic car however it will not handle gear changes and simply keep the throttle nailed during a gear change. This will result in jerky gear changes and stress placed on the gearbox. The factory ECU during a gear change will communicate with the auto box and drop timing, ignition to ensure a smooth change. For those wishing to use PowerFC with auto you should consider a mechanical auto gearbox instead of an electronic. The PowerFC should work fine with a mechanical gearbox such as power glide, transbreak etc.

This is because the mainstream ECU's in Nissan etc rely on the main cars' ECU for gear logic change control and functions. Cars such as the Toyota have a seperate ECU for the gearbox change logic and control so it's not affected. Apexi chose not to port the Automatic gearbox logic code (as its very long and complex) into the PowerFC because I suspect they found its simply not worth it & too complicated. You can buy an Automatic PowerFC for a Toyota Chaser for example and it has auto logic control under SETTING, you can set the shiftmap, ramp up speeds etc as it has the code to interact with the Toyota AUTO ECU that is seperate to the main ecu. So in summary - Auto PowerFC's exist & work but only for Toyota. We have seen quiet a few Auto R33 Skylines with manual PowerFCs - some report they work fine etc and there is no difference - do so at your own risk.

How much does the unit cost?The unit currently retails around $900 AU delivered from Japan for a new unit. However as Apexi have altered their production plans this only applies to some select models. Other models must be sourced 2nd hand from forums, ebay, other members etc. For AP Engineering models they are more expensive as they are a custom made model and retail is around $1500 AU or even higher. Recent pricing indicates around the $920 mark is more realistic. There are some workshops or resellers that list they have the "Australian" version of the Apexi PowerFC. This is simply the same PowerFC but sold with an Australian delear or reseller warranty. Normally your PowerFC needs to be sent to Japan for a warranty claim and/or testing. With an "Australian" version it can be done locally supposedely.

There are also unconfirmed rumors of the local distributors being able to supply the latest firmware for the PowerFC. To date the latest firmware I have seen on ECR33 is 5.11 which was from Mid Oct 2006 build. The price of the "Australian" PowerFC is somewhere near $1500 so its not even worth the cost, given the mean time between failure of the PowerFC's. Basically if it fails, you've done something wrong or have a dodgy wiring loom / hacked up loom.

Lately it seems everyone is cashing in on the "discontinued" situation that the PowerFC is in.The main models are still in product, its just slower and takes longer to get one on order new from Apexi.I would be careful in how much you pay for a PowerFC these days. I have seen upwards of $1600 AU for a used unit these days on Ebay.The places I would look for 2nd hand PFC's would be your local car club, Ebay and Yahoo Japan auctions (lots on here usually).

When I buy the PowerFC what comes in the box?The current PowerFC comes with the following items

# Apexi PowerFC ECU# Apexi PowerFC Hand controller# Apexi PowerFC Japanese Manual# Apexi PowerFC Japanese Warranty Card# Velcro Sticky tabs for use with the Hand Controller

This applies to new units purchased. Previously the older style new units were the main ECU only.Some time around 2004 ish Apexi decided to bundle the hand controller and ECU as one main price.

Is there an English manual? a PDF copy? English translation?An outdated english manual (for the RX7) is available at English Commander Manual.The current Japanese manual can be found at Japanse Command Manual (updated)

For a complete Japanese Manual matrix on the Apexi site go here: http://www.apexi.co.jp/manual2....html

Japanese Manuals (high quality PDFs)Name LinkPowerFC Manual 3SGE Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual RX7 Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual Nissan (180sx, 200sx, GTST, GTR) Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual Evo Lancer Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual Evo Lancer DJetro Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual MR2 Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual 180SX Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual SR20 Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual Honda Integra Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual Skyline GTR Djetro Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual Chaser JZX100 Right click, Save asPowerFC Manual Subaru WRX Right click, Save as

I have the older PowerFC that did not come with a hand controller can I buy a new hand controller separate and use that?You may be able to depending on the version of the ECU and hand controller. If the version between the ECU and Hand Controller is different the Hand Controller will boot up the Apexi logo and freeze. Take this as a precaution as a few people have experienced this. If you experience the hand controller freeze problem click here to get some help on it.

My Hand Controller freezes at the Apexi Logo. Why???

Pay attention to the version matching and you can't go wrong. Your local supplier can order the correct hand controller for you. If you can't find a supplier http://www.nengun.com/ can source the older styler and newer style hand controller (N001 and X001) for you new at a new price. If you are after a 2nd hand unit you can try Yahoo Auctions, Ebay or even Jap Parts at http://www.jappartsspecialist.com/

What model do I need? (Version Matrix)Version MatrixVersion Alternate names? Input Type ExtrasStandard LJetro or just normal PowerFC Airflow meter normal unitDjetro Map Sensor PowerFC Map Sensor normal unit with map sensor input instead of AFMPro FC Pro - PowerFC Pro AFM Launch control (0km/h limiter) & Spark cut (instead of fuel cut) at limiterAP Engineering AP Eng AFM usually These are remapped PFC's to suit extra cars (ie R33 RB25 GTST PFC remapped to suit R32 RB20 PFC)

You cannot mix and match models - Some cars only have access to some models etc. ie: There is no Djetro version for R33 GTST - There is no Pro version of Evo 8 etc. Apexi release some models in all 3 flavours to suit the market (Skyline GTR gets all 3 options). Some models can be back ported to other cars ie: R33 GTR can work on R33 GTST so you can have R33 GTST Djetro (and Pro etc). Some AP engineering releases can be Pro versions too. There are some counterfeit FC Pro versions out there (buyer beware).

Click here to read up on the PowerFC Djetro VersionClick here to read up on the PowerFC Pro VerionClick here to read up on the PowerFC AP Engineering Version

You should note that all models are now discontinued other than standard Ljetro versions. Apexi no longer make Djetro, Pro or AP Engineering versions. You need to source these models 2nd hand from Ebay / forums etc.

What is an "AP Engineering model" and do I need it?"A.P. Engineering Original Power FC units carry the same functions as the regular Power FC units but have been specially adopted for use on car models that the regular Power FCs do not cater for. As they are an item outsourced from Apexi, their pricing is higher than the regular models." - http://www.greenline.jp. An example of an "AP Engineering" model is the PowerFC for the r32 gts-t.

AP Engineering versions are no longer available brand new. You need to purchase one second hand if you want to buy one.

What is the "D-Jetro" model and do I need it?The D-Jetro Power FC units carry the same functions as the regular Power FC units but do not require the use of the factory standard air flow meter and use a mass air pressure sensor. Apart from the unit itself, use of the D-Jetro units requires additional parts that vary depending on the model." - http://www.greenline.jp The airflow meter (at least in the skyline range) does not pose a big restriction in terms of horsepower and one would doubt the use of the D-Jetro. If you really need massive airflow you can always change to 2 x Q45 Airflow meters and use those with the PowerFC. The skyline series are optimized for closed loop operation with an airflow meter.

The Djetro version has a few caveats you should know about before you consider using it

# Careful placement of the map sensors in multiple throttle body systemsWith multiple throttle bodies, such as the Skyline GTR RB26 or the Pulsar's GTI-R SR20 multiple throttle bodies can have bad side affects when using a map sensor system. Consideration needs to be taken into account when placing the map sensor (or map sensors) for the Djetro system to avoid idle problems on multiple throttle bodied engines.

# Tuning will take considerably longerIt will take considerably longer to tune a Djetro PFC over a normal LJetro PFC. This is because all of the work has to be done from scratch instead of just doing the main bits in the AFM/LJetro version. You should discuss this with your tuner and find out the total cost for a Djetro tune.

What is the "Power FC Pro" and do I need it?The Power FC Pro Spec.CPU has been designed for drag racing use. These units have two additional functions over the regular units: 1. Ignition cut used for rpm limiter - Regular Power FCs cut fuel feed when the preset revolution limit is reached. At high rpm, there is the possibility of knocking when the fuel is cut in high-powered cars. The Power FC Pro CPUs cut ignition at the rpm limit to prevent the knocking that could potentially destroy the engine. 2. 0km/h rpm limiter setting - Allows for the setting for an initial rpm limiter that is active whilst the car is not in motion. This allows for mainting a rpm level for consistent launches.

PowerFC Pro versions are no longer available brand new. You need to purchase one second hand if you want to buy one. There have been reports or rumors surfacing of fake PowerFC Pro units that are just the normal standard versions. The true PowerFC Pro versions have some unique features which give them away.

Have a look at What does the PowerFC look like inside? to identify what a PowerFC Pro version looks like. The dead gives are the older style main board with the top mounted expansion chip (same as AP Engineering). The other dead give away is the "FC Pro XZXZX" sticker on the side of the main ECU case.

There should also be a sticker on the main ecu which would read something like "RB25PRO1" or "RB26PRO1". Under ETC, VERSION on the hand controller you should see a similar version string "RB25PRO1" or "RB26DETTPRO1" etc. It should definetly have PRO in the version string - There have been reports of people reflashing the Pro hand controller to normal FC code (don't see why u would?) Be sure to double check before you buy it to make sure its a legit PowerFC Pro version.

For some more discussion on the this topic check out gtr.co.uk;Power FC Pro identification help<img src="http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk28 ... _small.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

Does the PowerFC run the whole car or do I need controllers for... (Aircon, Lights, ABS etc...)The PowerFC emulates all the functions that your standard computer did. This includes things like Aircon, Lights, ABS etc.What ever your car did with the standard ECU, it will do the same with the PowerFC.

What other optional parts are available for the PowerFC?Here is an almost complete of optional parts for the PowerFC.Note they do not work or plug into all models, some parts are Djetro only, some are Ap Engineering only etc.

Hand ControllersName Part NoHand Controller (Old Style (To suit ENGINE MODEL STYLE PFC - IE: PFC RB25 or PFC RB26) & AP Engineering old style) 415-N001Hand Controller (new Style (To suit CAR MODEL STYLE PFC - IE: PFC ECR33 or PFC GTR33L) & Multiversion hand controller) 415-X001Hand Controller Toyota 415-T001Hand Controller Toyota (JZZ30 only) 415-T003

Hand Controller Extension Cord (Make your own)Name Part NoHand Controller extension cord 60cm 415-XA01Hand Controller extension cord 3m 415-XA02

Boost Solenoid Kit (To read and display Boost on the hand controller)Name Part NoApexi Boost Sensor (Boost Control Kit) 415-X001Apexi Boost Sensor Harness (3 pin PFC) 49C-A002Apexi Boost Sensor Harness (5 pin PFC) 49C-A003

Apexi Official Software (not recommended)Name Part NoApexi FC Commander Pro software 415-X010

There are other optional parts avaiable you just need to find the part numbers.In actual fact I recently brought the Boost Control Kit in parts and found it cheaper in parts, I guess this is becuase of the way its shipped in a medium box.

Why would I want to buy a PowerFC?There are many reasons for changing to a PowerFC the most common being to extract more power from the current engine setup. Your cars factory computer has many limits and conservative settings to ensure engine reliability and to ensure factory components do not have excess load placed on them. As you upgrade these components the factory computer will not retune itself and therefore you will not obtain your maximum benefit. You can reset your cars ecu (works in most Skylines) and it will relearn your engine setup and adjust accordingly but that is only basic tune settings. There are much more advanced tune settings available with the PowerFC.

Does the PowerFC have limits?The PowerFC does not have limits such as speed limiter or boost cut the factory ECU has to prevent engine stress / excess load. It has adjustable idle, rev limit and on-load idle. You can set your cars rev limit to whatever you like. 10,000rpm if you like.

There are no hardset limits in terms of power, killowatts, horsepower or turbo size etc its purely as good as your tuner. So if you have a good tuner then there is no logical/physical boundary etc. The Apexi 1200HP drag car uses a PowerFC for its main ECU (no surprise).

Are there any cool tricks with the PowerFC? Free mods etc?A handy trick PowerFC owners use when they take car in for a service/work to be done they set the rev limit to 3000rpm and remove the hand controller. .This prevents the workshop from taking your car out for a fang on the roads and driving it like they've stolen it as the PowerFC will cut the power at the 3000rpm rev limit interrupting the joy experienced by the joy rider of your precious car. This would be useful at panel beaters, car cleaners, stereo installers etc. This would not suitable for a performance workshop cos if they are tuning your car or fixing a problem they may need to actually rev it out so use this wisely. Another unofficial mod is instead of buying the official PowerFC hand controller extension cord is to use a normal Ps2 extension cord used for a normal PC computer. Its the same cable you just need to break off one of the pins.

How does the PowerFC compare with the Apexi SAFC, AVCR and other Apexi computers?The Apexi AVC-R and SAFC are piggyback systems. The SAFC controls airflow voltage and fakes airflow voltage to the ecu. This makes the ecu believe more airflow is present and cranks up the fuel/timing thus resulting in more power. The AVC-R is a boost controller and not really a piggyback as such.

Apexi SAFC - Piggyback Fuel ComputerApexi AVCR - Boost ControllerApexi VAFC - Vtech and Piggyback Fuel ComputerApexi Imoni - Diagnostics display from consult portApexi Multichecker - Diagnostics display from consult portApexi PowerFC - Standalone Engine Management

How does the AVC-R compare to the PowerFC boost controller kit?You can obtain the similar functionality from the AVC-R as you can from the PowerFC with the boost controller kit installed. The AVC-R and the PowerFC boost kit use the same solenoid and map sensor parts. It is confirmed that you can switch the AVCR solenoid and map sensor to the PowerFC boost kit but it should work. You can make the PowerFC display boost pressure without buying the Boost controller kit by buying the map sensor and using the Boost Kit Harness.

Parts list: What other optional parts are available for the PowerFC?

You will need:

# Map Sensor# Map Sensor Harness# Solenoid

The main difference between the AVC-R and the PowerFC Boost Kit is the AVC-R can do gear judge or predictive gear based boost control and it has the pretty blue screen. The code logic, solenoid parts, wiring etc is the same.

How do I install the PowerFC?Disconnect your cars battery and discharge all power from the car. You can do this by unplugging the battery and pressing the brake pedal a few times. Locate your cars computer and unplug the factory car wiring harness. The harness is usually screwed into the ECU so you need a Phillips head to undo the bolt in the middle. Once you have removed the factory-wiring loom you need to remove the ECU from its brackets. You can simply unscrew it and pull the ECU out. Once it has been removed put it in a safe place in case you need to go back to your factory computer. Put the PowerFC in its place and plug in the factory wiring loom the same way it came out of the stock computer. Be sure to note which way the ECU came out and match the pins/wiring notation correctly. Once it has been secured with the holding down brackets/screws you are now almost ready to start your. Before you start the car for the first time you should give the ACC key turn power so the hand controller turns on. If you are not using the PowerFC boost controller kit make sure you disable this feature. Go to the "Etc" menu and choose "Function Select" and then choose "Boost Control Kit" and set the option to a Japanese character that looks like a plus sign. This will disable the PowerFC boost controller kit. The PowerFC manual states to start the car, ensure no errors are present and let the car idle for at least 30 minutes. During this idle period wait about 10 minutes, turn on the air con, wait another 10, turn on the demister, wait another 10 minutes or so and then your car is ready to drive. If you short cut the self learn idle procedure once the car is turned off and back on again it will simply stall each time. If this occurs you must factory reset it again and do the procedure from the st.art

# Disconnect Power# Unplug stock ECU# Plug in PowerFC ECU# Reconnect Power# Start Car, let it idle for approx 10 minutes before doing anything# Turn on aircon, let it readjust its idle and wait about 10 minutes# Turn on demister, let it readjust its idle and wait about 10 minutes

All done and you are ready to drive with your new ECU now. At this point you should familiarise yourself with using the hand controller and just checking the initial sensors and make sure the basic options are turned on and you know how to read the basic information.

Below is a list of things you should check before heading off to your tuner. These are just precautions and will make sure its ready to be tuned and avoid any silly problems at the start.

Installation Checklist:

Sensor CheckMAIN MENU, ETC, SENSOR SW / CHECK Look for any sensor names highlighted in BLACK background or any flashing sensors. Any highlighted in black indicates a problem. The engine check light will also stay on if any of the sensors aren't working (highlighted in black). This is not to be confused with the black DOT switch on / off sensors.

Stable Idle

The car should have a stable idle and shouldn't hunt. If it is hunting (revs bounce up and down a lot) and you can hear the engine "hunting" then you should consider a re-initialize and self idle learn again. If you don't have stable idle the car will be sucky and frustrating to drive.

Engine vitals OK

MAIN MENU, MONITOR, 8 CHANNEL,

Select the following

# WtrTemp# Knock# BatVolt# Airflow# EngRev# InjDuty# Boost# IgnTmng

WtrTemp when the engine is warm and stable should be around 70 to 80deg.Knock at idle should be 0 or like 1 or 2 at the most. Give the engine a few revs, ensure it returns to zero.BatVolt should be around 14 at idle. Too low is bad and Too high is bad. over 15 is bad and under 14 can also be bad.Airflow should be stable at idle, around 1100mv (millivolts). Should increase when you give the engine a rev and should return to around 1100 ater it returns to idleEngRev should be similar to what the stock tacho says, it may be out a little bit. Ensure it follows stock gauge when you give the engine a rev.InjDuty should be around 1 to 2% at idle and should increase considreably when you give the engine a rev.Boost (if not using the boost kit it will be ---) should be around -500mmhg at idle and should goto near 100mmhg with a free rev.IngTmng at idle should be around 15 or 20deg. Should increase considerably with free rev.No engine check list or exhaust temp light

The cars factory engine check light or exhaust temp light should NOT be on. If this is on or flashing it indicates a sensor problem. See the "Sensor Check" section on what to look for to identify the faulty or wrong sensor.Restart the car a few times to ensure its stable

Restart the car a few times to ensure engine check light doesn't come on and idle is stable

Help! My car doesn't start once I've installed the PowerFCCheck that you've disabled the PowerFC boost controller kit in the step above. Check that you've chosen the right model PowerFC. Check that you've securely fastened the wiring loom and its not loose. Some cars only (for some strange reason) have half gauge wiring running from the battery to the ECU. This works fine for the factory computer but the PowerFC needs the full 12volts. You can simply run new 12volt wire from the battery to the ECU and this should correct this. This problem has been experienced by at least two members previously (both in R33 GTST) If the hand controller displays the Apexi logo and freezes then you have the wrong hand controller version or its damaged. If you find your car cranks, starts and stalls immediately you should check you have entered the correct injector and airflow meter settings (if they aren't standard items). If you still do not have a stable idle follow this procedure <

# Turn car off# Turn car to ACC# On Hand Controller, ETC, DATA INIT, YES# Turn car off# Turn car to ACC# Change AIRFLOW and INJECTOR as needed (if different from stock)# Turn off Boost Control Kit (if not being used)# Start car and follow idle procedure

Failing that take the car to a mechanic/tuner who has worked on the PowerFC and see what they can sort out for you. It's pretty rare for a PowerFC to not start first shot - so double check the list, ensure you have done a DATA INIT on it and restarted the car etc before going further.

Does the PowerFC have any laptop hook up options or software?The PowerFC has an official laptop software hookup but it is only for Power Excel workshops. These are workshops endorsed by Apexi and they will not give out the software. You can now purchase the official PowerFC Cable and Software for around $550 AU. This includes the official cable and PowerFC software. The Software is in japanese and so is the manual. There is an unofficial product called the FC-Datalogit. This is a 3rd party product that includes a dongle/serial cable and software. It's retail is around $520 AU and supports full control of the system just like with the hand controller and supports logging to your laptop for replaying and viewing later. You can also make your own cable/dongle providing you know how (and have the PIC processor code). The diagram on my site needs PIC processor code to work and this code is NOT avaiable, is it not released for public use, please do not ask for it. Should cost around $50 in parts, then you can use the PowerFC Pro (if th cable works) software from my site. There is a new product on the way due for release in August which is the FC Tune. This appears to have the same functionality as the datalogit however it supports all of the cable types including a custom made one. Retail is rumored to be around $299 USD for the cable. The software is free.

# Apex'i FC Pro Software and Cable (retail product)# FC Tune and Cable# Datalogit FC Edit and Datalogit Connector Box (retail product)# Kashima's custom cable (needs PIC processor code)

You should read here if you are intersted in Datalogit

Are there any hidden/secret features? Stuff you can't access by the Hand Controller?If you have the PowerFC cable and software or the datalogit kit you can get to a few features that arent supported on the hand controller.

# You can download maps to your PC and save them.# You can set the fan temperature turn-on value to below lower then 60deg.# You can set the millisecond values for the engine flash light for AFM, INJ, KNK levels.# You can access and control the air temp correction table.# You can adjust load map points by extended the airflow measure levels.

The follow tables/settings are also changeable

# Inlet air temp fuel map# Water temp fuel map# RPM acceleration fuel map# Cranking Injector dwell map# Water temp versus boost fuel correction# Inlet air temp versus boost fuel correction# RPM Load Point table# AFM load point table# AFM voltage table# Ignition versus water temp correction# Ignition versus inlet air temp correction# Ignition dwell versus RPM correction# Ignition versus battery voltage correction# Ignition versus boost correction# Individual injector trim# Injector lag versus battery voltage correction

The following functions can be supported by additional hardware with Datalogit

# Antilag via injection# Antilag via ignition# Intercooler spray# A/C and non A/C overheat fan temp switch.# Every standard sensor is logged# Optional logging for (lambda, brake temperature, suspension travel etc)

The PowerFC has a map for inlet air temperature which is not accessible by the Hand Controller but the table is still used by the PowerFC if it picks up Air Temp from the factory sensor. The Skyline RB26 has this sensor and the stock GTST loom can be adapted to support this sensor and allow the GTST PowerFC to read the value.

Once the PowerFC is installed can I expect any better performance or does it HAVE to be tuned?It is always recommended that you get your PowerFC tuned for your cars mods. This will take into factor things like a lazy fuel pump etc that will be missed with just the factory tune. A full tune will ensure your A/Fs are safe and the engine is not excessively knocking and you are getting maximum benefit from the new ECU. A standard map will have benefit over the stock computer as it wont have built in limits the factory computer has and it also controls things like Variable Valve Timing better (on r33 RB25det at least) and provides more torque in the rev range without a tune.

Can I drive around without it being tuned for a few days? Months?You can drive the car around as you would normally but you should take care not to put stress on the engine. Basically don't fang around in it, as you could be running unsafe A/Fs etc and just causing more damaged. Best to get it tuned. Make sure you watch the knock levels if you do this to make sure there isn't excess detonation.

What does the PowerFC support in terms of modifications?The PowerFC can support bigger injectors, larger turbos, aftermarket plenums, superchargers, nos kits, etc. The PowerFC is able to do this by allowing the tuner to adjust all the parameters of the engine on a load vs. rpm map for each of the core components. You can tune the computer to run xyz amount of fuel at 2300rpm on load xyz and to have xyz timing at the same load etc so the combinations are virtually endless. It will also support bigger airflow meters, different and custom meters, larger fuel pumps etc.

Where can I get my PowerFC tuned and how much will it cost me?There are dozens of workshops that can tune the PowerFC you best reference would be a search in your local chapter (or car club).For a PowerFC tune you are looking at a price of around $300-$500 varying on mods you have and car etc.

A list of known workshops who can tune PowerFC's;

Workshop Address Contact NotesRacepace 9/6 Holloway Drive, Bayswater, VIC, (03) 9762 9421 Ben Track car specialists (incl. datalogit)RE Customs 16 Yiannis Court, Springvale, VIC, (03) 9548 3414 Ray Premium tuner with DatalogitDr Drift Unit 4/9 Alick Rd, Brooklyn, VIC, 0425 818 755 Sam Premium tuning and remapper of std ECU'sCREATD Motorsports 11a Merola Way, Campbellfield, VIC Rob These guys have done GTR PFC on RB20Croydon Racing Developments 9 Blaxland st, Silverwater, NSW 2128, (02) 96484264 Jim Premium tuner (incl datalogit). Built GTR700Unique Autosports Unit 1/20 Tucks Rd, Seven Hills, 2147 John Premium tuning (custom RB26 PFC on VG30DETT)

If you would like your workshop listed here please email me and provide some information about your workshop so I can list you.

If you can install the PowerFC yourself you will save yourself some easy $ in the initial setup. Djetro PowerFC tunes will typically cost more so keep this in mind.

Can I tune the car myself?You sure can if you know. You can also look up some DIY threads using a lambda sensor and the trial and error procedure. Be warned you are playing with an electronic controlling mechanism of your engine and any incorrect setting could cause bad things. See the below parts on the Map Tracer for some info on Self Tuning. You can self tune the ignition timing yourself with trial and test method but you should not do this for fuel injection as you can lean it out too far and burn the exhaust valves which is permenant engine damage. Self ignition timing tuning can be done quite easily and will certainly aid in more fuel economy. It's not recommend for more power as this should done on a dyno so you can ramp up the load and max out to 200km/h without breaking any road laws / putting yourself at risk.

What is Map Tracer? Is it useful?Map Tracer can used to work out what map the powerfc is currently using. Each map contains settings that powerfc should apply to the engine. A map is a 20x20 grid each position has a value. There are maps for fuel injection and ignition timing.The map has 20 load points and 20 rpm points. Each rpm point is 400 rpm. This grid looks like:

A map for the ignition timing values looks like this (rb25det map)

A completed map trace in 2nd gear going from idle to redline looks like this. Please note this is done with full throttle, aka the pedal is to the floor:

Load is based on how much airflow the airflow meter is measuring. Going up a hill in 3rd gear at 50km/h may be represented as load value 13 if the airflow meter is seeing 4.1volts of "air" and an rpm point of 11 if you were at say 4400rpm. The load value (vertical left side) 13 out of 20 represents the amount of engine load being placed on it, which is taken from the airflow meter measurements. The ECU also knows how hard you've pushed the pedal based on the "THRO" sensor. So the powerfc uses these "values" that it's given in real time to work out what cell values to use for ignition timing and fuel injection. This forms the basis for tuning the engine as you can adjust any load point you like how you see fit. It's a little clear when you see the below diagram: If you were noticing an issue when under a certain load or rpm you could run a map tracer see what map cell is being read and then adjust the corresponding map value under ignition or fuel. To have the map tracer save the map its accessed on the map tracer screen press next when in map tracer and as it goes through the maps it will leave them on the screen. Just like if turned on mouse trails in windows, you see the previous trail it has left. This makes it easier to debug what the ECU is doing and what values need to be adjusted to alter how the car runs based on the map values being read in at real time.

Below is a map trace of light and medium throttle. This was done from my car based on a 15 minute drive around my local streets on what I would consider normal throttle. The majority of the time you aren't on full wide open throttle. Most tunes are done based on the car being on a dyno with the throttle wide open to check for safe A/F and tune for max power. This is fine however you will lack fuel economy as the a/f's for low and medium throttle are no where near the full open throttle a'f/s.

As you can see from this most of my time or "operation" is spent on the top left of the Map. Now remembering that load is up and down and rpm is left and right. So based off this trace we can see I'm not hitting much load, the most is about point 10 and rpm the most I'm hitting is point 8. So the max for that trace is load point 10 which is about 2/3 of the airflow meter max on the r33 gtst (The stock powerfc and afm can only show upto 15 points for 'load' reference). The rpm is 8 * 400 = 3200rpm. So I didn't go over 3200rpm and didn't give it lots of throttle but enough to access the lower end region. So going from this my fuel economy is fairly good but I am sure I can get better so we need to drill down to the fuel cell values for those highlighted maps as I am sure they weren't tuned on the dyno as this wasn't a priority for the initial tune. More to come on this topic as I further look into my tune and try and get some better fuel economy. Consider how much time you spend on full throttle vs low or half throttle and you'll realise where your fuel economy has gone. Out the window as the majority of the fuel cells you are reading are highlighted above and they are default apexi map values so they need to be tweaked.

What do the strange sensor names mean?If you goto ETC and then choose SENSOR CHECK/SW you will see a list of sensors and corresponding values. These report values that the current sensors are returning. This can be useful for checking faulty sensors and to check if a certain sensor is working expectedly. Below is a translated list of the ECR33 PowerFC

What are the basic mods I should have when I get my PowerFC?You can fit the PowerFC whenever you like however a basic list of mods is a great start as you’ll get the most gain out of it from the standard computer

# Full Exhaust 3" from turbo back# Boost Controller (Bleed Valve or Electronic Boost Controller - Or you can use the PowerFC boost controller kit)# Air filter upgrade / Pod filter or CAI setup kit# Upgraded Intercooler

Why does my engine light flash when I drive with the PowerFC?The PowerFC uses the factory engine warning light to alert the user of "upper limit" or ceiling values in the engine systems. Things such as airflow meter max value, injector max duty, excessive knock will cause the engine warning to flash. Usually the engine flash is in a sequence of 3 flashes each 0.5 seconds apart. Should you experience this you should review the hand controller max values (press down when in monitor mode and displaying values to see the max values for each) and consult your tuner immediately. Excessively high knock can cause engine damage. Running on max injector duty can also be fatal so speak to your tuner. Aggressive tunes that are tuned around winter temps/airflow and being run hard in summer may cause these symptoms if the tune is very aggressive and on border line of maxing out the stock components. This is only hearsay but I have seen this from at least one or two members.

See Basic Hand Controller functions and use for information on how to isolate which warning is triggering the engine flash light

My idle is really crappy and it hunts around a lot when on idle. What can I do?The first step when installing the PowerFC is to let it idle for upto 30 minutes on your car so it adjusts to your engine setup. This includes turning on the Aircon, Demister and Heater throughout the idle stages so the ECU has time to learn the engine setup and idle levels. This can be done by doing an "initialize" on the PowerFC. This will reset all settings back to default (including your tune) and set the PowerFC back to learn mode (for idle only). You should not do this if you have a tune as there is no way to save the tune before it is erased. If you have datalogit or the FC Pro cable/software you can copy the maps. Preform the initialize and then reupload the maps. A few people have seen really screwey idle from the Hand Controller itself being plugged in. The workaround is to unplug the Hand Controller and it idle's normally. This is a very strange problem and certinaly not common. Initial suggestions would lead to an electrical problem somewhere? If you still stuck with a unstable idle, try the factory ECU and does the idle bug go away? If it is still present it could indicate a mechanical issue with the factory idle control (usually the AAC valve). You can reset the PowerFC to factory defaults to "re-learn" the idle control from scratch and this seems to fix most idle related issues, such as hunting at idle and also high RPM surge when coming off a gearchange or throttle acceleration.

Last but not least if you still have screwy idle speak to an auto elec or mechanic. There could be something else wrong that requires further attention.

I am seeing on my Map Tracer that I am reaching load point 19-20 on full throttle. I am maxing out the PowerFC! What can I do?Load or what is considered "load axis" on the powerfc maps is based on values fed from the airflow meter. If the airflow measure "lots" or air the powerfc moves down the axis on the left and reads the corresponding values. What happens when your AFM is showing the ceiling or "highest" values the powerfc has calibration for then you are stuck with a "flatline" load map which would look something like:

From here you can see it drops the max load points fairly quickly. This would most likely result in being unable to accurately tune from 4000rpm onwards as it just keeps reading the same load values each time (aka end of the map). This issue has only been found to occur with the AP Engineering RB20 PowerFC and using a "high load" setup such as an RB30 bottom end conversion. The issue is correctable by "extending" or "stretching" out the airflow meter reference points. This corrects it by when the airflow meter measures 3.2volts the powerfc matches that to load point 11 as an example. By default the AP Engineer PowerFC looks to reference the max load points a little early with an ugprade intake system and maxes out a little to early. This is not to be confused with the actual airflow meter maxing out at 5 volts. The correction in this case is to obtain the RB25 airflow map refence points and use them instead of the RB20 ones. This then "extends" the airflow meter range and allows it to run around the load point 15 mark on full throttle instead of the bottom of the map. This should allow for more accurate tuning as there is room for "increased" load because there are 5 or 6 "points" to advance in load before its at max again. This cannot be done with the Hand Controller as it requires the FC Pro software, Datalogit or Fc Tune to access the airflow ramp tables.

What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter?When you choose another airflow meter to allow a large opening diameter or a higher resolution meter you need to select the unit from the [SETTING], [Airflow] menu and select it from the list. You should do this before you start your engine to prevent really unsafe mixtures and also to prevent stalling/bad idle. Once you have highlighted the correct model you have fitted to the car you can simply press [PREV] on the hand controller and return to normal [MONITOR] and start the car. It should idle OK (well hopefully) however this does not mean it is safe and ready to go. Selecting the correct airflow model simply loads the voltage ramp table into the PowerFC. This tells the PowerFC at what airflow levels the meter is reporing in its voltage range. You should have your AFR's checked with your tuner and a wideband after an airflow meter change to ensure its not too lean or too rich. If you need to drive a fair distance to your tuner or would like to run around for a few days on the new airflow meter without it being retuned/checked then theres a simple procedure you can follow

1. Let engine warm up and idle2. Give the engine a bit of a rev in neutral and check to see if smoke comes out the exhaust.

3a. If you see *some* black smoke-> Then its running rich (preferred) and it should be OK to drive around on light/low load, although your fuel economy will probably be terrible.

3b. If you see *lots* of black smoke-> Then its running very very rich and you'll need to lean it out a bit. You can do this by going into [SETTING], [IGN/INJ] and then on the right hand side you will see INJ correction. You can then slowly change the ADJ value to a negative value in small increments. After a few adjustments give the engine a rev and there should not be as much black smoke. Repeat until there is a little bit but its not *lots* of black smoke.

3c. If you don't see any black smoke-> Then its running lean or possibly too lean. Do the same procedure (as above) but add more fuel by adding or upping the ADJ value and after a few increments try a free rev. If you get some black smoke then you are starting to richen it up.

4. You should remember this value or write down the correction number used because if you turn the car's power off you must come back to here each time to put the value back in. This is because its only a temporary test mode and it should not be used all the time. You could also give this value to your tuner to give him an idea of how rich its running.

Source: Apexi Documentation

80m RB25 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 300ps (221kW)80mm VG30 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 500ps (368kW)90mm VH41 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 400ps (294kW)

*Output is calculated off of measurable air volume

Airflow Meter Adjustment RangeUsing 100% as a base, the airflow can be adjusted from +50% (-50%) - 200%

My fuel economy is terrible and I just had a complete tune, Whats wrong?A "complete tune" is not always a complete tune. It is most likely just a high power run, that is run the car on the dyno and suck out the most power you can and make sure it doesn't knock. Usually advance the timing, lean it out and make sure its a safe tune. This is done on full throttle usually in fourth gear (as stock diff ratio is 4:11) which is the closest to 1:1. Now think to your driving habits, how often are you on full throttle for the entire duration of your tank of petrol? 5% of the time seems reasonable but your entire tune is based on full throttle and max load, certainly not your ideal tune as far as economy. You should read up on how to use the Map Tracer here before continuing any further as you need to use this as part of the tuning process.

Speak to the tuner if you still have terrible economy. Ask to have the light cruise AFR's check on the dyno with a wideband sensor or even better as them to come for a drive with you wide a wideband sensor up the exhaust. Show the tuner your typical driving habits and make sure the AFR's are nice and lean on light cruise. My car is setup to be around 16 AFR's on light cruise which is safe & reasonable providing it is done correctly. Below is a simple checklist for poor fuel economy;

# Check the tune (light cruise AFRs etc)# Make sure closed loop 02 feedback is on (ETC, FUNCTION SELECT, 02 FEEDBACK)# Make sure you have a working 02 sensor (ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK, 02-1 (for gtst) should howver between 0 and 1v)# Don't constantly load the car up to get it on boost over and over# Keep a steady throttle (02 feedback doesn't work if you keep moving the accel pedal, keep it constant in light cruise)

Self Tuning - Ignition TimingThings you will need:

1 x Friend1 x PowerFC Hand Controller1 x Road

This should be done on quiet road with someone else driving your car. This should not be done by yourself, in peak hour, in lots of traffic or anywhere that seems obviously dangerous. Your own private road is probably the most suitable, and we all have these of course. Ok drive around normal load, cruise around 2200rpm ish. Watch the knock value under Monitor (1 Channel). It shouldn't knock excessivly, be sure to press UP so you get a "digital" value as well as the barchart on the hand controller. Knock is a signal picked up by a microphone inside the engine itself. It is not 100% accurate and it can pick up other things that are not "engine knock" but merely things that sound the same. Knock over 60 is bad and will flash the engine warning light, by default. Whilst on low load, light cruise goto Map Tracer and see what values are being read. It should be somewhere around say rpm point 7 (2200rpm) and load point 3 or 4. Just watch it vary around as your driver varies the load (varying accelerator pedal pressure). This is because as soon as the driver varies the throttle the engine loads up and takes in more air. The airflow meter see's this and increases its measured "voltage", which in turn adjusts what cell the PowerFC is using. Ok now goto Setting, IGN/IJN and on the left side you will see IGN Corr. By default it will be 0. Increase this value to +2 and then go back to Monitor, 1 Channel KNOCK and see if the knock goes up a little bit. A little increase in KNOCK is OK and acceptable, values jumping all over the place or constantly hitting 40/50 odd all the time is bad. You can clear the max "digital" knock value by pressing right when it is displayed along with the barchart. If the knock appears to be minimal then get your drive to vary the throttle a little. Try slowing applying more pressure to the accelerator pedeal in 5th gear at say 50km/h. This should throw the map trace down the left axis as the load increases. See if the knock goes up and down much as it's. Don't worry about full load, flooring it as we aren't interested in that. In fact this is not recommended as running advanced timing under heavy load can make stuff go bang. Try going into lower gears such as second and doing very slow takesoffs and very small amounts of load. Keep checking the knock values and make sure it is OK.

At this point you shifted the entire ingition timiing map up 2 degress everywhere. The car should be a little snappier and sharper under accerelation (This is good). As long as there is very little knock or hardly you should proceed to save this adjustment and monitor your fuel economy. It is recommended to do minor adjusments one step at a time to see the effects and also to prevent a big change instantly. +2deg timing increase should give a good increase in fuel economy. See if you can set IGN CORR to +4 and watch how much knock you get, if its minimal then its time to permenantly set the new tune. Again make sure its safe and not knocking before you do this. If you do this incorrectly you may have to either revert every value back or reset to defaults and loose your tune (You've been warned). Set the IGN CORR back to 0 deg and then let your driver have a rest or turn the car off but keep ACC on so you can keep using the hand controller. Have a rest and a drink as your eyes and head will hurt if you suffer motion sickness as watching map trace and knock while someone drives around really sucks. Ok now we wish to move the "light/medium" cells up 4degress. We don't want to move the whole map up as we've already had a max power tune which is fine we just want more economy. See below picture of what I feel are the light load / medium load cells which are used the mad

A note about the PowerFC FAQThis FAQ has been writ

[onosqv]

nice that you posted that... but looks like you just straight up jacked the information w/o referencing: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/do ... fc-faq.htm

[Vegascorbin]

And your question is????????????

[ArmadaJspec]

well tech. i did but the thread was too long it cut the reference off.

This document was written by Paul Rivoli (paulr33) for the Skylines Australia car club (http://www.syklinesaustralia.com).

I figured this info needed to be on NICO.

cheers

Modified by ArmadaJspec at 8:50 AM 1/21/2009[/i
Modified by ArmadaJspec at 8:51 AM 1/21/2009

[silvia808]

my power fc d-jetro fried so i got a #62 ecu for my s13 black top do i need to take all sensors of the d0jetro sensors off? my car isnt running right wen i switched back with maf and ecu it works better without maf plugged in...