Anyone with Blow thru maf setup..??

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rn240sx
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I was told that this on the only way the ka motor can run an open bov setup without having any stall problems at all..!!Is this true or false..??

Does anyone have this setup that can attest to that..?? Any pictures..??

If it works, where does the maf and bov get placed..??


daniel240
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yes you can run an open bov by doing a blow through mafs setup. but its not the only way. the safc has an anti stale setting. i used to run a blow through mafs setup with my hacked mafs but i gave up after my third mafs went bad. i did not have good experience running it as a blow through setup. it seemed like it only lasted a few weeks and my mafs would go bad. basically when you run a blow through setup you put the mafs after the turbo anywhere in the ic piping and you put the bov in between the throttle body and the mafs.

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virus77
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actually the blow off valve goes after the turbo but before the mafs on a blow thru setup

nissanfanatic
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You are venting air from the intake charge before it is metered.

crzycav86
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I've read from several NICO members that their car doesn't run as well with blow-through mafs. It seems that the pull-through type works better.

daniel240
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thats right, i got confussed.

Structure240sx
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i run the safc on the stock ecu with an atomospherically vented bov and my car idles and drives just fine. no stalling or bogging between shifts

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rn240sx
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TO daniel240:

Was the maf going bad due to the blow thru setup...??

daniel240
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yes, im 99% sure thats what was causing it to go bad. they seemed to work fine for a while, felt no different then it did with it before the turbo, but then it would just go bad after driving it for a while. one time after having it go bad i put it before the turbo and it ran fine again. i just got tired of messing with it. the only reason i wanted a blow through setup was to run an open bov. but i got a safc, so i can do it without running a blow through mafs. try it if you want to but i wouldnt bet on it lasting too long.

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rn240sx
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I just dont understand how the maf would be going bad..??Its still reading the same amount of air flow whether its b4 or after the turbo. Maybe cause of the change in air temperature because of the turbo (doubt that but..??) who knows...??

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jacob360
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The MAF is designed and calibrated to have air flowing through it at atmoshperic pressure. With a blow through, the air is pressurized. Those hot wires are very thin and delicate. Also, there is a little bit of oil in the air from the turbo, and the MAF can become contaminated.

nissanfanatic
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The air being blown through the intake charge pipes is also a lot hotter than the air being drawn in. That could create a problem as well.

egan
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ive been thinking about running a blow through too. i heard it is supposed to be more responsive, and if a hose pops/something breaks, you can still drive home.

daniel240 - did you put the maf after the intercooler? i was thinking of doing this so it would have cooler temps going through it.

also, you need to make sure there are some bends near the maf, or something to cause turbulence so it can meter the air properly. ive heard this can produce poor results also.

at this stage in my life, i plan to run turbo - bov - intercooler - maf - throttle body. (plans subject to change at any moment without explanation )

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rn240sx
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Has anyone pushed the limits to the maf on the cold pipe..?? Curious to know if the z32 will hold up at 20+ psi....

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emperor_lunchbox
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isnt the stock MAFS blow thru?

KATwo40
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Uhhh...since the stock KA is NOT turbo, I'd say no, the stock MAF is not a blow through.

Like mentioned above, I think a good intercooling setup and the MAF between the IC and the TB should be a great setup. I plan on running my Z32 this way when I upgrade to 550's and a fully tuneable EMS, like BikiRom or the like.

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emperor_lunchbox
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maybe I am confused on what a blow thru is.

Nismo_Freak
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Just turn up your idle to about 1000 RPMs and you shouldn't have a problem with stalling.

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emperor_lunchbox
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so you dont want the MAFS on the turbo inlet?I am confused

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rn240sx
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emperor_lunchbox wrote:maybe I am confused on what a blow thru is.
On the ka and sr20 the stock setup is a PULL thru maf. This setup the maf is mounted on the turbo inlet which means it is SUCKING in air.. Here there is no boost, no pressurized air... Strictly suction only.

On a BLOW thru setup, the maf is mounted AFTER the intercooler and b4 the throttle body, this means the air is being BLOWN thru it at a pressurized level simply cause your now AFTER the turbo...

Still confused..??

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emperor_lunchbox
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nope, I got it now. I guess I was looking at it from a different perspective.

Which is best?I cant recall any blow thru set ups

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Edub1
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How about the MAF right before the throttle body?

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skillet
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i have my MAFS about 8" away from my throttle body on the cold side, and our highest boost test run has been 1.5bar. seems to be working fine but the car has some low end stuttering, while running awesome on boost. ive read that turbulence caused by the throttle body being partially open or snapping closed can make the mafs a little jumpy, but im also really rich, so im not sure whats causing the bogging. ill do a writeup when we get everything figured out because i had a hard time finding good info about blowthrough setups. our main problem was blowing the pipes apart, even with quality silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. ended up having to weld a piece of aluminum across the MAFS until we have time for a more adjustable solution. ill try to snap a pic and get it up when i get home.

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rn240sx
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Ok, I just got done converting my setup to a blow thru maf....

Old setup was maf on intake side of turbo, bov on the cold pipe. When this way was recirculated i still had a few times where the idle would drop below 700 rpm and sorta wana stall but not always, but enough times to notice when it did... This was comming to a stop and / or while i would do a high rpm run in that gear and just drop it into N... Other times it would stop at 1000 like its supposed to. This setup ran pretty descent and the best part was keeping the pressure in the system while shifting..!!

This same setup but running open bov i would constantly have idle problems upon shifting into N. It would always drop below 700 rpm and 1/2 the time it would stall out unless i tapped the gas pedal to keep it alive. And when i would do a high rev it N or high rev in any gear and drop it into N it would stall out every time unless i tapped the gas pedal when the needle dropped to about 1000 rpm.. This was expected. When i used the afc dec-air feature it helped out 90 % of the time but was not perfect. The bad part other than the stalling was when i shifted i lost all the pressurized air and i had to rebuild it back up, but considering that i have a .48 a/r... it didnt take long to rebuild..

Now i moved the maf to the cold pipe and it sits right next to the a/c canister thingy by the radiator and the bov was moved to the hot pipe. Let me tell u from the 15 miles i test drove it... I aint felt nothing better than this setup..!! I did about 7-8 high rev runs in all gears and immediately dropped it into N and the needle came down and stopped at 1000 rpm each and every time..!!! Sat at idle and reved it to 6k about 10 times and same thing, needle stopped at 1000 rpm each and every time..!! When the bov vented, it built the boost faster then when i had the bov on the cold pipe even when it was venting to atmosphere.. It was that much of a notice.. I was surprised on how much faster it built up the boost even while venting it out..!!

This was just a 15 mile test drive at 8 psi max (for now) and im IMPRESSED. I give this blow thru maf setup a +++

I guess as the weeks go by ill keep u guys posted on how it turns out.

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Craving4Boost
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ah yes those are the results i was expecting. keep us updated if you notice any unusual behavior that can be related to a damaged MAF. i get very tempted to run blow thru

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GhostDrifter
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I tempted to run a blow thru setup too because I have a turbosmart dual port BOV, but I dunno if im gonna have to get a new MAFS every other week. Has anyone been running a blow thru setup for a while w/o burning out their maf

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rn240sx
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GhostDrifter wrote:I tempted to run a blow thru setup too because I have a turbosmart dual port BOV, but I dunno if im gonna have to get a new MAFS every other week. Has anyone been running a blow thru setup for a while w/o burning out their maf
I had a guy reply to me stating that he has been on the same maf for over 2 yrs.. While another guy told me that he kept buying a new one every month or so... I just switched over, lets see how long it lasts...

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skillet
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got to drive my car today. like rn240 said, it kicks ***. my MAF is on cold side and BOV on hot side. you can see in the pic where the MAF is. we actually used a greddy cold pipe and cut it in the center to keep as much straight pipe before and after the MAF as possible. car ran super smooth at 1 bar, and throttle response is great. no stalling problems at all from the open BOV.

rn240...if you have trouble keeping the pipes together when you turn the boost up....try hairspray. someone told me it would act like a glue.(motorcyle grip trick?)

edit, i know this is the KA-T forum, but i figure it shouldnt matter


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Craving4Boost
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does the BOV have to be on the hot side with blow thru maf set up?

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AeonTorpor
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It doesn't look that way. That's the discussion here, they're trying the MAF out on the cold pipe and the BOV on the hot side. This looks interesting, i wanna see how this holds up.


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