Anyone using anti-seize compound on their wheel studs?

[Skibane]

Broke a wheel stud off this afternoon, while replacing the tires. Everyone says that Nissan products are prone to galled/stripped stud threads - and apparently, it's true!

The installer put Permatex aluminum-based anti-seize on all the other studs, with my blessing. I've heard stories that anti-seize compound drastically changes the torque specs of a fastener, but it's still preferable to replacing studs all the time.

Anyone else lubing their wheel studs? Other suggestions?

[maxnix]

Never used aluminum compound, just high temperature anti-seize for an even torque.

[Skibane]

Never used aluminum compound, just high temperature anti-seize for an even torque.

The copper-based compound?

[DrewQ45]

Everyone says that Nissan products are prone to galled/stripped stud threads - and apparently, it's true!

Anyone else lubing their wheel studs? Other suggestions?

It is true. I've had to replace 3 studs on the Q. I have few I keep as spares. I put heavy duty bearing grease on em... just a touch.

[bullittandy]

What exactly is happening? I'm assuming that the studs are not cross threaded. How could a stud break other than rust, cross thread or overtorque?

[goody90q45]

Anyone else lubing their wheel studs? Other suggestions?

I've had trouble with my Honda Accord and started using a small shot of PB Blaster on the stud threads before putting the nuts back on. Works great!

[Jeff Williams]

Usually, a broken stud is caused by trash getting in the threads when the lug nuts are re-installed. A little care goes a long way. I have used anti-sieze on my lug nuts in the past. Just make sure you torque them correctly and re-check them in a couple days.

PB Blaster works great to eliminate any trash, as well as just about any silicone lubricant.

Also, if you use real cheap lug nuts, they can gall up the studs.

[DrewQ45]

What exactly is happening? I'm assuming that the studs are not cross threaded. How could a stud break other than rust, cross thread or overtorque?

Metal composition weaker than most. I've cross threaded/ torqued the hell out of my dodge and never broke a stud.

[Q451990]

I've never broken one on two Qs, a Maxima, and a truck. Saw a guy break one on my mom's '88 Maxima, but he had cross threaded it and tried to tighten it up with an impact gun anyway... oops.

Heath

[Q45tech]

How can the threads get screwed up if you are rotating your tires every 90 days and using correct torque sticks?

[maxnix]

How can the threads get screwed up if you are rotating your tires every 90 days and using correct torque sticks?

Ah, the large white elephant in the room suddenly appears!

Previous damage from untrained or careless technicians can appear at any time. Must always watch them.

[Skibane]

What exactly is happening? I'm assuming that the studs are not cross threaded. How could a stud break other than rust, cross thread or overtorque?

The "tire guy" told me that Nissans use a stud with a fine thread pitch - Small, closely-spaced threads are easier to damage than large, widely-spaced ones(?).

I had the same problem on my Mitsubishi pickup - broke 3 studs in one day! Anti-seize compound fixed it for good.

Apparently, ANY lubricant on the threads will change the torqe measurements considerably - makes it easier to over-tighten the nut, so some caution is in order.

[StarPD]

The "tire guy" told me that Nissans use a stud with a fine thread pitch - Small, closely-spaced threads are easier to damage than large, widely-spaced ones(?).

I had the same problem on my Mitsubishi pickup - broke 3 studs in one day! Anti-seize compound fixed it for good.

Apparently, ANY lubricant on the threads will change the torqe measurements considerably - makes it easier to over-tighten the nut, so some caution is in order.

Never use anti-seize or other lubricant on wheel studs. While it eases torquing, the friction between threads of stud and lug nuts is drastically reduced. That can cause normal vibrations and temp chasnges to eventually cause the lug nuts to loosen and come off with catastrophic results.

Yeah, I know, you've done it for years and never had any problems. I've seen too many guys disregard good standard practices in motorcycles, guns, and cars. When the inevitable failure occurs, the owner almost always has a look of shock on his face, and always claims that it never happened before. I know guys who overload smokeless propellant in reloading firearm cartridges, and never check headspace and/or case length or crimp pressure. I know guys who lube their firearms and motorcycle drive chains with WD 40. I know truck drivers who claim they can tell tire pressures on their vehicles by thumping them with a "tire billy". I know guys who regularly run their tire pressure below minimum factory settings "because it makes the car ride better, and they've never had a problem". I have a friend who refuses to torque brake caliper mounting bolts because it's "too much trouble, and he's never had his brakes fail". I know guys who buy only used tires, who use regular gas in cars designed for premium, have cheap windshield installed, and do other things that are fraught with peril. They usually become the most fervent converts when the odds beat them.

Don't let someone else convince you to do something unsafe just because they haven't had a problem. They won't have to pay for a failure caused by bad advice, or worse, suffer injuries or death from the accident it may have contributed to.

Clean stud threads with a good CLEAN wire brush, and the inside of lug nuts too. They should be CLEAN and dry. Factory torque setting are predicated on threads being just that, CLEAN and dry. And don't forget to clean the hub and wheel faces where they mate. Of course, don't forget to inspect the studs and nuts for cracks, distortion, or deformed threads.