Nope. I sold all of the RB25 stuff because the project had become a money pit.yellow_jacket wrote:You sold all of your RB25 stuff to do a RB20?
As far as the mount kits. I would be very careful about using any of them because if the driveline angle is off it will wear out that wonderful 2 piece stock driveshaft. Just double check your angles to make sure that it isn't pushing anything out of place.
thank god some one decided to listen to me...........everyone told me i was a fool for saying that but its all just a matter of time before the loaded transmission takes a **** because of the driveline angle.yellow_jacket wrote:R32 crossmember and mounts. I will probably end up modifying them though.
The nice thing is that I will have a one piece driveshaft so I don't have to worry about tweaking the driveline angle.
Yep, I definitely want to have a sucessful project. At least I took a few good steps this time by A. buying the motor from a reputable shop (JHOT) and B. Swapping it STOCK and not going big at first.yellow_jacket wrote:yep, driveline stuff can be crazy.
I just want to see daniel have good luck with this project after all the crap he endured in the last one.
well not really with a rb25 as you have to have a new driveshaft made anyways.it really pertains more to the rb20 swaps that use the stock drive shaft which if you lower and move the engine and transmission back will change the intended driveline angle.using a r32 xmember and transmission mount ensures proper bolt up with the stock driveshaft, and no worries; with any mount kit i would go to a 1 piece custom bit.Slo_240sx wrote:No they are saying get a mount kit because the stock R33 crossmember and mounts throw the driveshaft operational angle off.
Exactly. The mounting kits are an incredible tool to use but with the 2 piece driveshafts you just need to watch your driveline angles. Personally I would still go with a 1 piece shaft even with the mount kits.s13burger wrote:The mount kits try to put the motor in a position that is closest to where the factory would have put the rb if it was ment to be there. No matter what setup you go with the driveline is going to sit at some sort of angle. Remember that you are putting in a motor that doesn't belong.
Modified by s13burger at 6:50 PM 9/1/2005
i still beg to differ, if we examine how the rb20 mounts into the s13 and s14 chassis it mounts identicaly how as how it did in the skyline.the only reason that the hood hits is beause the skyline uses taller hood hinges and the nose of the car is a good 6" longer.having done a few rb20 swaps into s13's and now my s14 it fits perfectly using the r32 xmembers........driveline is straight on both chassis and on the s14 the stock driveshaft can take some play becauase it has uni joints on either ends (transmission input and diff output.i would possibly worry about the s13 tho because it is a bit shorter than the s14's which engages the output shaft fully (i even took the dust collar off my ka transmission and put it on my rb because it fit THAT well).however when you get onto the subject of a rb25 in a s chassis then yeah its a diffrent story, you need a mount kit but then again you should also be making up a one piece driveshaft anyways.i am confident enough in the r32 xmember mounting in my s14 that im willing to put money on the line that says that the engine and transmission are perfectly level and there is not strange drive line angles in it.s13burger wrote:The mount kits try to put the motor in a position that is closest to where the factory would have put the rb if it was ment to be there. No matter what setup you go with the driveline is going to sit at some sort of angle. Remember that you are putting in a motor that doesn't belong.
Modified by s13burger at 6:50 PM 9/1/2005
well drive on em, and tell me your opinionaccel junky wrote:I just installed the TOP HAT mounts if you are interested in a review. I have not driven on them though.