Post by
Nismo_Freak »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/nismo-freak-u248.html
Fri Apr 16, 2004 4:38 pm
Tuning professionally requires some equipment alot of shops don't have.
I'd suggest you have the car fully cornerweighted with you in it.
Have the car aligned with you in it... I can supply you with some alignment specs that worked pretty well for me to work off of. In no way will my car's setup be considered ideal for your car.
As far as setting the compression dampening level... thats all based on driving style and preference. Obviously if the car is understeering you need to either make the rear dampers harder or make the fronts softer, and visa versa.
I have my HA's set for grip and they have 8 / 16 front and a 10 / 16 rear (16 being softest). The amount of dampening rests solely on the amount of weight being transfered and the cars level of grip. The alignment also helps to determine both.
Make sure you align the car AFTER having it cornerweighted... because cornerweighting the car requires you to raise or lower the car.
Set a base alignment, gather data like understeer/oversteer, conditions in which it happened, tire temperatures after runs on 3 points of the tire (inner, center, and outer). Keep a manifest of the temps, you should see a correlation in the change of tire temps and alignment changes.
Data is key to setting up a suspension, trial and error is the only method. The pro's have to do it, we have to do it.
Tire pressures should also be monitored closely. Set them at 34 psi front and 36 psi rear cold if you can stomache the bumpier ride. Changes in tire pressures should also be evident in your tire temps at the end of a run, and thus should be noted after every run.
Check temps first, then pressure.