anyone know an alternative to welding an oil return line? Also Q/s on turbodrem

[silpena]

anyone know if theres anyway i can get a return bung to my oil pan without welding it. I could get it taken off but i tried once and was pissed so much i gave up i jacked it and losen the mounts my hands are to damn big! my jdm friend could do it he has small hands but hes too busy. anyways thinking of going with a cheap turbo build this year with hella used parts and junk yards finds goal is under 1,500 and little labor work(well mostly almost no labor work) I was thinking maybe use the oil drain plus and use that for the oil return for my turbo? i mean think of it can't i get a fitting to go in there and also use to lube my turbo. I would just take it off when i need to change my oil and boom! done. No welding, no removing oil pan, no nothing! i think i might look into it and try to make something for it to reduce ka-t build's. any thoughts?spec's on my build for the year is so far something like this:$50 used turbo from junkyard(might buy 2 just in case)choices are mostly old vovlos, mercades, a plymoth laser, 300 zx(1987)used turbo manifold(80-120)anything will do ebay intercooler and hot pipe/ cold pipe(140-190) maybe used if i can find one all gauges(250-300) a/f, boost, oil pressuresr20 injectors(70-100) easy to findgreddy emanage(200-300 or less idk)wide band(190-240) a good oneall lines and fittingcolder plugs ngk heat range 2? new wires and rotor n stuff(around 300) all could be less idk i can find some good deals here on nice or craigslist or ebayanything missing i know something is missingmy goal is around 225whp and around 240 rwtq i don't need alot of power i'm not into the big power and wear my motor out it only has 101,000 orginal miles i just replaced the head gasket since it blew from overheating( my bad on not replacing the water pump fast enough and thermostat my dad told not too and i listened to him he bought the car so idc his fualt)car runs great i'm gonna get a compression check and leak down test soon. Compression should be higher then normal since i shaved the head by like 0.0014. My car has a slush box so that ain;t cool at all but thats why i'm keeping the power low so i don't blow it. I'm looking to for something fun i don;t race, drift or anything just like to have some fun wih my car some times Oh if anyone wants to know my 240 is a 93 se model with super hicas(bummer but idc doesn't bother me i go to tracks) autoi bought the car 2 yrs ago with only 76,000! for 2,700 lucky find around my small area guy wanted 3,400 but i got him down(bastard tried to hide body defect) its a good thing i know how to do body work i can maintaine or change my paint whenever i want or fix any dents if i want.

[480sx]

Sure you could braze it on..

Seriously though, the best and really only way this should be done to prevent leaks and maintain reliability is to weld a bung on the oilpan.

However, there is a guy in a recent post who said he used a center punch to start a hole and then did some sort of vodoo to get it wide enough. Then he just threaded the oil return bung in by hand..

[silpena]

idk about that sounds too complcated i'm thinking of something to replace the drain plug on the oil pan and also be used as oil return line. I'm gonna look around and maybe try it.Untill need to save funds and go buy the parts slowly. Waiting for my financial aid to come in.

[neverlift]

that would need a pump to get it back into the pan, turbos use gravity to get the oil out.... Mine is a 180 straight out of the pan, should/will use a 90* or a 45* so the oil has less restriction.....

It was me I geuss. and no voodoo here my man. just beat a big as I could get whole, a couple different size punch's ftw, then muscle the threads in. I'll post a pic of it in my thread in the 240 forum later...

[pr240sx]

If you plan to use the crank drain for oil return you will choke the turbo in oil, smoke as hell and probably burn it.

Weld or drill is your only choice to PROPERLY install your turbo

[scheffler]

LAZYIt is to bad. I dont understand why people don't want to do things right any more. Plus it is not even that hard. I should go to the junk yard and get all the oil pans I can find and just weld bungs in them, and sell them to lazy people.

Sorry just venting.

I agree with everyone the only way to do it properly is to put in a bung.

The oil would not flow into the pan properly if you came in from the drain plug. It would stay in you line untill it was all the way up to your turbo. You dont want that.

[chicos240]

Wow, my eyes hurt from reading all of that. If it is worth doing, do it right. Its simple. You can rig it, but you will cut the life short on something.

[S13FX]

You can go online, buy a oil scavenging pump, and use it to spray the oil back in through the oil cap on top of your valve cover.

Thats a very popular method people use with remote mount setups.

[neverlift]

I like my riggin 160ish hard *** miles already...

[ppctx]

LAZYIt is to bad. I dont understand why people don't want to do things right any more. Plus it is not even that hard. I should go to the junk yard and get all the oil pans I can find and just weld bungs in them, and sell them to lazy people.

That sounds like a "Back when I was a boy... Uphill both ways... in the snow" line Seriously thought, welding the silly bung is the easy part, Its getting the damm pan off that concerns me.

[silpena]

ok ok ok i'll just weld a bung. I'm thinking of getting a hookup by asking one of the welding guys at my college to make a custom tubler manifold and down pipe i'll see and mayb dyno my car. My school has their own dyno for students i'll pay if i have to but i probley should get it done first by a shop so i don't blow up my engine. any comments on my build? did i miss anything, too much for my goals.