Lets see, the gas gauge is broken so I've gotta get a new one of those.bassboost wrote:Agreed..Ebay exhaust of some sort...
Fuel problem..if it starts up and runs, but as soon as you give it throttle it dies..most likely out of fuel. Whats the gas gauge say?
I have a ka20 in it and I wouldn't mind waiting until spring to put it on the road, but I don't have a garage or anything to keep it in, so It's sitting outside under neath a tarp and it's going to be sooo cold working on it during the winter lol.Kaleo55 wrote:What engine is in that car? The MAF is a common culprit especially with 240's. I would go ahead and source a new one. Take your time girly, these car are s**t in the winter and wouldn't suggest driving it in the rain let alone snow. Do as much as you can to it this winter so it really drivable in the spring and summer. I'd also go ahead get a e-bay cat back stainless steel unit.
Sorry for the jumbled mess of text lol. I'm new to this, trying to get everything figured out. The car is a SE and does have a spoiler on the back. So any advice on how to fix the leaking if it's from that?H8tred wrote:Just pointing out, that jumbled mess of text would be much easier to read and understand with proper structure. Anyway, welcome to Nico.
Is it an SE, if it is and has a foam spoiler on the back, that's most likely the cause of your trunk leak, if not, you'll have to get yourself the Factory Service Manual (FSM), and pull the tail lights out and seal them with your choice of gasket material.
As for the cutting off when revving, it could be the fuel pump, or it could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS). We would really need more detail into how it's acting and so forth to make a real attempt at helping you trouble shoot it.
The exhaust, I would suggest that you at least get a budget crush bent one made up at your local muffler shop. Skip all the band aid fixes if you can.
i know for real lol. It looks like all these guys answered your question. So welcome to nico, enjoy your stay.H8tred wrote:Just pointing out, that jumbled mess of text would be much easier to read and understand with proper structure.
Look and lightly lift around the edges, chances are there are large rust holes on the rear top near the third brake light, and on the top on either far side. If that is the case, unless you have body work skills, I would say try to find a base hatch with no spoiler. You're not going to get a deal from a body shop by being a lady, but you might get one on here haha. Look/ask around. Could be anywhere from 50-300 for a whole new hatch.s13girlygirl wrote:
Sorry for the jumbled mess of text lol. I'm new to this, trying to get everything figured out. The car is a SE and does have a spoiler on the back. So any advice on how to fix the leaking if it's from that?
Wanna bet? Mine did the same thing. However it started when I was actually going down the road. So it was like no power after 2.5k. I got to where I was going and let it idle, and it had a very slight surge, nothing terrible. Mafs off my other car fixed her right up.ca18detgabby wrote:lol @ all the people blaming the maf. pull the maf plug off and do the same thing, it will go into limp mode and still stall. the maf is not the issue, if it was it would either be an issue at idle or not run at all.
any idea what limp mode is hunny?H8tred wrote:
Wanna bet? Mine did the same thing. However it started when I was actually going down the road. So it was like no power after 2.5k. I got to where I was going and let it idle, and it had a very slight surge, nothing terrible. Mafs off my other car fixed her right up.
Being that it has sat for a while, a complete tune up is in order, but I'm willing to bet that it's a fuel or sensor issue as to why it's dying.
you can run without a maf........ it throws the ECU into limp mode.neverlookback wrote:I had the same issue with my 95 it ran fine till i hit the gas while driving and at stop lights if i tried to accl. to hard it would die...MAF. contrary to popular belife ive found though exp. that the car will even idle with out the damn thing plugged in lol had my s14 sit for almost a year and it stared right up without fresh gas so i wouldnt bet on the gas issue after such a short time. check the fuel level first dont make things more difficult then they need to be. my money is on the MAF. that MAF cleaner is deffinately your first option 50/50 shot it will fix it...make sure you clean the small sensor attached to the air box too not just the main unit.
Yes ma'm, I am fully aware of limp mode, though it is a term more often used by Honda owners . You have to give me a little more credit than that, if the plug was loose, I would have found it immediately. I even went as far as testing it with my DMM.ca18detgabby wrote:
any idea what limp mode is hunny?
I would bet your plug came loose and infact your Maf was good..... just not getting proper connection.
I would still bet on a loose connection(maybe within the maf). from EVERYTHING I have experiened has been a clean cut either good, Ditry, or bad..... less the person had a harness related issue, which happens with alot of 1/2 assed swapped.H8tred wrote:
Yes ma'm, I am fully aware of limp mode, though it is a term more often used by Honda owners . You have to give me a little more credit than that, if the plug was loose, I would have found it immediately. I even went as far as testing it with my DMM.
The odd thing though is that I could cut the car off, start it again, and it would sometimes run fine for a little under a mile. I've found that Nissan mafs are not a clean cut good and bad diagnostics issue. It can be very intermittent and frustrating to figure out. I have a lot of experience with the headache from the 91 SER we used to own. It's one of those "If in doubt, swap it out" parts.
better get in line.Marenta wrote:Damnit Gabby, why don't you post in my thread, don't you know that I have the hots for you?
i didnt assume anything......... looked at it as logicly as I could based on the small discription I was given. Infact you were the one who was in such a hurry to say....... wel honda people say that. As if it were derogatory. I never called you a ricer did I?H8tred wrote:See, I was trying to be civil about it. You're going to sit here and assume that I'm some ricer fanboy that can't turn a wrench. News, I have never paid a soul to do anything to my car other than tow it. Any of them. I've been turning wrenches since before you kicked the barbies.
While I do appreciate constructive criticism, you have no idea. While you can read and learn how to sound smart, hands on gives to the power to be smart. Like I said, I tested with my 350 dollar Matco digital multimeter (on par with the high end Fluke Dmms). It wasn't a bad connection, it wasn't a bad harness, it was a dead might I repeat DEAD MAFS that continued to somehow act right for short spurts of time. I wasn't stuck in any mode, and the common "If it runs better with it unplugged then it's bad" theology did not shine true.
This girl can do exactly like I did and do an entire ignition tune up and waste her money.