No, you actually do turn the rear cylinder to retract it. You can push the fronts in with a C clamp, but you *should* not push the rears in like that. The rear piston has funny little notches on it that can be grabbed with a needle nose pliers or the above mentioned rubik's cube-like device (got mine at Sears for less than $5).96240SX41 wrote:But yeah, when we did my back brakes, we were so confused, and the guys up at advanced (why am i listening to them??!) said that you twist it in. . .wtf, that would kill that cylinder deal haha. Talked to the guy at the local Nissan plant and he said all you do is use a c clamp and push it in there. Then bleed brakes of course lol.
does the b13 have 4 wheel disc brakes too?eliterit wrote:i hate my s13s brakes. i even put metal master pads and new calipers all round. , my b13 brakes wayyyyy better
b13 se-r models donismofly wrote:does the b13 have 4 wheel disc brakes too?
Well wait, if you have to turn it in, how is it supposed to push out? Is the pressure supposed to spin it through the notches? Thats kind of stupid if you think about it (only if i am thinking what your thinking)BadMojo wrote:
No, you actually do turn the rear cylinder to retract it. You can push the fronts in with a C clamp, but you *should* not push the rears in like that. The rear piston has funny little notches on it that can be grabbed with a needle nose pliers or the above mentioned rubik's cube-like device (got mine at Sears for less than $5).
When in doubt, check the FSM.
AH! The Rubik's Cube device RULES. Trying to turn the caliper back in with a pair of needle-nosers SUCKS, (if you slip, you could rip the rubber seal) somehow i end up stabbing myself anyway. The rear brakes on the s13 are a pain, but now i have new remanufactured calipers on the rear so hopefully no problem. As long as you keep the pins well lubricated and everything else gunk free, it works fine.BadMojo wrote:
No, you actually do turn the rear cylinder to retract it. You can push the fronts in with a C clamp, but you *should* not push the rears in like that. The rear piston has funny little notches on it that can be grabbed with a needle nose pliers or the above mentioned rubik's cube-like device (got mine at Sears for less than $5).
When in doubt, check the FSM.
that "lifetime warranty pad" is misleading... only warrants against manufacturer's defects, not when u wear them out, u can return it w/ receipt for a brand new set. I saw another customer trying to return his "worn pads" for exchange of new ones, only to be told the "fineprint" of the warranty. bleh96240SX41 wrote: O, and Advanced Auto sells a dustless lifetime warranty pad that has been very good for me.