Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Had some new belts installed and aside from squeeling (which is taking a long time to go away, although lessening the more I drive) the pulleys seem to be out of shape. Anyone do these before and is it a common thing on the 3.5. What are the signs when it is on its way out???? My pathy happens to be a manual transmission......
Re: Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Pulleys or sheaves are multi linear grooved round running surfaces with round bearings used to guide belts and to tension belts.
Looking at a moving pulley will tell you nothing. We as humans think we see things, but at 750 RPM the pulley might be spinning at 1500 RPM or higher and we simply can't distinguish that.
If the pulley is out of shape, which is doubtful, but may be because the person working on it took it apart and dropped it causing a bend to the circumference of the outer edge.
Stop the engine, look and feel the pulley, loosen the tightening device and remove the belt and spin the pulley. Any stiffness or grinding or sloppiness in the bearing? Take a stick and place up to an edge of the pulley without touching and rotate the pulley. See that the pulley edge is constant distance to the stick at a slow revolving speed.
A bad bearing from a dried out lack of grease may be fixed by opening the face shield of the bearing and throwing that face shield away and repacking that bearing about 1/2 full of grease. Then install and in 2 days the grease will work throughout the bearing. Or replace the bearing and pulley as a unit.
A bearing can be tested for smoothness a slow spinning speeds if you can hold it between your thumb and index finger, but a good slow speed bearing means nothing to its rated speed at load. Often the load will bring out the noise, wobbles, squeals of a bearing.
A properly sized bearing will last a long time the RPM of a bearing is not the destroyer of a bearing...it's dirt. When fixing a bearing by removing the dirt cover and re greasing...it's downhill from there as dirt is able to enter that bearing...but it may buy you time.
Looking at a moving pulley will tell you nothing. We as humans think we see things, but at 750 RPM the pulley might be spinning at 1500 RPM or higher and we simply can't distinguish that.
If the pulley is out of shape, which is doubtful, but may be because the person working on it took it apart and dropped it causing a bend to the circumference of the outer edge.
Stop the engine, look and feel the pulley, loosen the tightening device and remove the belt and spin the pulley. Any stiffness or grinding or sloppiness in the bearing? Take a stick and place up to an edge of the pulley without touching and rotate the pulley. See that the pulley edge is constant distance to the stick at a slow revolving speed.
A bad bearing from a dried out lack of grease may be fixed by opening the face shield of the bearing and throwing that face shield away and repacking that bearing about 1/2 full of grease. Then install and in 2 days the grease will work throughout the bearing. Or replace the bearing and pulley as a unit.
A bearing can be tested for smoothness a slow spinning speeds if you can hold it between your thumb and index finger, but a good slow speed bearing means nothing to its rated speed at load. Often the load will bring out the noise, wobbles, squeals of a bearing.
A properly sized bearing will last a long time the RPM of a bearing is not the destroyer of a bearing...it's dirt. When fixing a bearing by removing the dirt cover and re greasing...it's downhill from there as dirt is able to enter that bearing...but it may buy you time.
Re: Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Wow, thanks - that would a mini course but highly thankful for the knowledge. I cannot DIY this however and would have to wait until it goes out and just replace the whole thing. But what I would like to know is what symptoms it would have if its time for replacement!!??
Re: Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Pulley bearings are usual suspect. Pulleys themselves are OK for the life of the engine unless, dropped, warped by human damage. They are in no harms way by normal use. But bearings are another story:
Bearings when sized right, installed right and maintained usually fail because of dirt, or dried out. A bearing doing its thing relies on lubrication no matter how little. When no lubrication, steel wears, particles of steel cause wear and a smooth bearing becomes pitted and a pitted bearing wears faster, becomes noisier and load put upon a noisy bearing will become noisier and finally stop being a bearing surface but a load.
Bearings when good, clean are quiet under no load and full load.
When bearings fail they can do so in tiny steps along the way until catastrophic failure.
These tiny steps are a whine, a rattle, a sticking bearing. While in service a stethoscope can be used to listen for a dry growl, a high pitch whine, stop them and feel for heat.
Bearings often fail with no warning, they can seize, fly apart.
Bearing can be ball, roller, tapered, bushing...each has its uses and when torquing is in play a roller bearing offers line contact compared to point contact in a ball bearing.
Bearings have and are supplied in differing qualities.
The roller bearing on my QX4 used to control the A/C I find to be of a lower quality because of the cage holding the actual ball bearings. But how many of us keep a car 14-15 years?
So when replacing your bearings you can do a direct replacement that might be a lower quality or try to get a better bearing.
In my experience bearings come in not so good, good, better and best. It depends how much work must be done to get to the bearing to replace it and what amount of work that bearing is doing, and how long you will keep that article that needs the bearing.
Bearings when sized right, installed right and maintained usually fail because of dirt, or dried out. A bearing doing its thing relies on lubrication no matter how little. When no lubrication, steel wears, particles of steel cause wear and a smooth bearing becomes pitted and a pitted bearing wears faster, becomes noisier and load put upon a noisy bearing will become noisier and finally stop being a bearing surface but a load.
Bearings when good, clean are quiet under no load and full load.
When bearings fail they can do so in tiny steps along the way until catastrophic failure.
These tiny steps are a whine, a rattle, a sticking bearing. While in service a stethoscope can be used to listen for a dry growl, a high pitch whine, stop them and feel for heat.
Bearings often fail with no warning, they can seize, fly apart.
Bearing can be ball, roller, tapered, bushing...each has its uses and when torquing is in play a roller bearing offers line contact compared to point contact in a ball bearing.
Bearings have and are supplied in differing qualities.
The roller bearing on my QX4 used to control the A/C I find to be of a lower quality because of the cage holding the actual ball bearings. But how many of us keep a car 14-15 years?
So when replacing your bearings you can do a direct replacement that might be a lower quality or try to get a better bearing.
In my experience bearings come in not so good, good, better and best. It depends how much work must be done to get to the bearing to replace it and what amount of work that bearing is doing, and how long you will keep that article that needs the bearing.
Re: Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Ok so these are two seperate parts - I was thinking that when I get a new pulley it would have the bearings included ???? Ok so now what are the best pulley/bearing combo available/where/cost - I want to also get whatever kind of performance out of it that is potentially available - and is there anyone you would recommend in Toronto...??? Thank you again
Re: Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Start off by asking your Pathfinder or Infiniti Dealer for the # and costs for that particular pulley with bearing. These pulleys are integral with bearing and when you see it you will understand. Although the bearing is not the best, that is how it comes, the price for the A/c drive is$79 plus HST.
Aftermarket and there are many, open up the yellow pages or google Ontario for the pulley bearing and seek out a Toronto or at least an Ontario dealer.
Make sure to ask for a discount, no demand it.
At 79 retail, you should find an equal or better set for around $50 but you will need to search, seek out, then demand a discount.
Now to save $$$, remove your bad pulley, wipe clean then with a sharp pointed knife remove the bearing cover plate. It will pop off complete, then throw it away. The bearing is now exposed, pack with new grease, then push that grease into the bearing. Wipe up the excess, you only want grease in the bearing, re-mount the bearing and pulley, set the belt tension a little less than it was. Give it a few days to work in the grease.
If your lucky that re-greasing will last a couple of years, if not get a new one.
Aftermarket and there are many, open up the yellow pages or google Ontario for the pulley bearing and seek out a Toronto or at least an Ontario dealer.
Make sure to ask for a discount, no demand it.
At 79 retail, you should find an equal or better set for around $50 but you will need to search, seek out, then demand a discount.
Now to save $$$, remove your bad pulley, wipe clean then with a sharp pointed knife remove the bearing cover plate. It will pop off complete, then throw it away. The bearing is now exposed, pack with new grease, then push that grease into the bearing. Wipe up the excess, you only want grease in the bearing, re-mount the bearing and pulley, set the belt tension a little less than it was. Give it a few days to work in the grease.
If your lucky that re-greasing will last a couple of years, if not get a new one.
Re: Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
Holy s*** - now i am determined to DIY this - has anyone done this on here with pictures???? - demand is right but I would be gentle at first - now if I did this re greasing (there goes the weekend and the ensuing hubby bashing) it would only be to drive me to the location that would have the best set......now any suggestions for name/brand??? I will actually call around in the morning and see whats up. Much appreciated again an good stuff.
Re: Anyone do pulleys....seems to wobble when running
English is my only language, but I'm stumped at what you've said, but in reading between the lines....
To buy non Nissan bearing and/or sheave or pulley is probably a bit of work. Nissan sells the part as a 1 piece affair with the bearing installed. Looking at the pulley as an assembly with the bearing installed shows the part as a cheaply made part but it works. At about $80 for what I see as a $15 part, I examined it and decided to pull the bearing dust cover off.
I know about bearings. The dust cover protects the bearing from big dirty particles and no bearing is greased forever. With at least 1 of the 2 covers off you can access the balls or rollers with in a bearing. With the covers off I noticed dry grease from age.
This particular pulley is on my 97 QX4 and was noticed by the racket made by the pullet when under load when the air compressor was engaged.
Others on this site recommended greasing the shaft, outsie the pulley and slap it together.
I balked at that idea but was informed it would work, and it did for a few days. So I removed the pulley and I could not remove the bearing because of the money saving way in which Nissan assembled the bearing and sheave.
The parts assembled were pressed together with a press that formed the container for the bearing and removing the bearing would destroy the form fitted sheet metal that was the inner part of the sheave. But the bearing a know manufacturer, used a standard bearing cover as a shield. A knife is a great tool to remove these covers but you cannot replace.
A great quality molly grease was used because that is what I have, reassembled and let work for a couple of days to see if it will shut thatt bearing up...and it did.
So eventually I will have to bite the bullet and replace it or sell the Q.
At some point a 14-15 year old vehicle will cost too much, but until that point is reached I'll just keep fixing it.
As I see it with good PM and done on a regular basis, this vehicle should last at least until it is 20 years old. The reason is simple at least for the 1997 QX4...it was an introduction into the market...as the first it was over built....the engine although tough is a bit under powered as it sits, but if used as it is I think 300-500 K miles is its life...the transmission and 4 WD system is robust and adequate....suspension is OK... but for the rear...the working diffs are well built....the downfall is the body with regards to rust, but if you keep the body under coated and/or rust proofed ever year to 2 years you have a chance to prolong its work life.
In reality the Q of the late 90's is OK, not great but OK, experience shows it needs care, PM and break downs can be kept at a minimum, but this is true of most vehicles today. At 20 years of use it will match Ford's Bronco of 1978 and that was a rust bucket by design and a pig on gas at 400 cu in with a C6 transmission, a snow plow and a 8000 lb winch, and it did 20 years so I think with the advances the Q has, 20 years is the minimum. But its a struggle with the rust more so with the engineering.
And yes you should be able to DIY whether it upsets you hubby or not...did I understand correctly?
Good luck with your repairs!
To buy non Nissan bearing and/or sheave or pulley is probably a bit of work. Nissan sells the part as a 1 piece affair with the bearing installed. Looking at the pulley as an assembly with the bearing installed shows the part as a cheaply made part but it works. At about $80 for what I see as a $15 part, I examined it and decided to pull the bearing dust cover off.
I know about bearings. The dust cover protects the bearing from big dirty particles and no bearing is greased forever. With at least 1 of the 2 covers off you can access the balls or rollers with in a bearing. With the covers off I noticed dry grease from age.
This particular pulley is on my 97 QX4 and was noticed by the racket made by the pullet when under load when the air compressor was engaged.
Others on this site recommended greasing the shaft, outsie the pulley and slap it together.
I balked at that idea but was informed it would work, and it did for a few days. So I removed the pulley and I could not remove the bearing because of the money saving way in which Nissan assembled the bearing and sheave.
The parts assembled were pressed together with a press that formed the container for the bearing and removing the bearing would destroy the form fitted sheet metal that was the inner part of the sheave. But the bearing a know manufacturer, used a standard bearing cover as a shield. A knife is a great tool to remove these covers but you cannot replace.
A great quality molly grease was used because that is what I have, reassembled and let work for a couple of days to see if it will shut thatt bearing up...and it did.
So eventually I will have to bite the bullet and replace it or sell the Q.
At some point a 14-15 year old vehicle will cost too much, but until that point is reached I'll just keep fixing it.
As I see it with good PM and done on a regular basis, this vehicle should last at least until it is 20 years old. The reason is simple at least for the 1997 QX4...it was an introduction into the market...as the first it was over built....the engine although tough is a bit under powered as it sits, but if used as it is I think 300-500 K miles is its life...the transmission and 4 WD system is robust and adequate....suspension is OK... but for the rear...the working diffs are well built....the downfall is the body with regards to rust, but if you keep the body under coated and/or rust proofed ever year to 2 years you have a chance to prolong its work life.
In reality the Q of the late 90's is OK, not great but OK, experience shows it needs care, PM and break downs can be kept at a minimum, but this is true of most vehicles today. At 20 years of use it will match Ford's Bronco of 1978 and that was a rust bucket by design and a pig on gas at 400 cu in with a C6 transmission, a snow plow and a 8000 lb winch, and it did 20 years so I think with the advances the Q has, 20 years is the minimum. But its a struggle with the rust more so with the engineering.
And yes you should be able to DIY whether it upsets you hubby or not...did I understand correctly?
Good luck with your repairs!