It's cheap ($14us), but i'm wondering if there are any major differences between front strut bars? I'm pretty sure there isn't a HUGE different, but let me know. Thanks!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...22035
Anyone bought this strut bar?
-
1dollar240
- Posts: 646
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 1:46 pm
- Contact:
Strut bars are all basically the same, you wont notice much difference between a 200 dollar one and a 16 dollar one, other than weight. The thing you have to watch out for is fit. Those ebay cheapies arent machined to the same specs as a nismo or (insert quality brand name here) so sometimes they have hood clearance issues. But i'd say for 16 bucks, go for it.
-
GodDrivesA240sx
- Posts: 536
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
- Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX
- Contact:
blink0r wrote:Thanks guys, i think i'm gonna buy it.
Well if it doesn't work you could always paint it yellow, write v-tech on it and draw a red R and sell it as a 'superhightech sending unit and voltage jumper from left to right side of car and over engine block to produce a super powerful spark in all plug's and make 50 bucks off of it.
-
UncleBen
- Posts: 7178
- Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2002 7:06 am
- Car: '05 Infiniti G35 Sedan Sport
'98 Nissan 240SX LE A/T
'95 Nissan 240SX SE A/T - Contact:
GodDrivesA240sx wrote:Well if it doesn't work you could always paint it yellow, write v-tech on it and draw a red R and sell it as a 'superhightech sending unit and voltage jumper from left to right side of car and over engine block to produce a super powerful spark in all plug's and make 50 bucks off of it.
-
MaineExport
- Posts: 3784
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 3:27 pm
- Car: 95 Nissan 240SX FAL fans AEM intake Hot Shot header Apexi N1 dual Exhaust VLSD ABS NX 50 shot
There are huge differences in STB's. For instance.... any one that is hinged almost defeats the purpose. The best ones are solid units that bolt directly on, and have no hinge to allow for easy access. No matter how tight you reef on that bolt, it will still allow for the bar to rotate up and down within the hinge. It will keep the two sides linked and keep equal spacing... but won't hold lateral rigidity. There is one on Ebay that is selling for $150.. looks like a real high quality STB.. not tubular... solid construction.. I'd swtich out my OBX if I had any cash left from my exhaust.
-
240Degrees
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 12:41 pm
Bringing up an old thread again... but I wanted to know who is trustworthy on ebay to buy strut bars from. I've emailed plenty of these guys, but I never get an email back 
I also sent 3 emails to http://www.rollhard.com each to different people. They have 2 strut bars for about $85, but I never got an email back. I'm quite pissed that nobody will sell me a set of strut bars at those prices.
I also sent 3 emails to http://www.rollhard.com each to different people. They have 2 strut bars for about $85, but I never got an email back. I'm quite pissed that nobody will sell me a set of strut bars at those prices.
dude, even the cusco carbon fiber rear bar I ahve has two little bolts on the end to so you can set the bar in place....and cusco makes great ****, I love mine...I think the real difference there is HOW that tollerance is made..is i just a hole with a nut? or is it an entire assembly, etc...
I use an Apex-I front and the cusco C/F rear and love them, everyone at ballanced performance here in GA said they were very ood, but probably cost me more than most people wnat to spend on a strut brace (yep, 160 front and 250 rear), but hey, you get what you pay for, and I dont mind paying for better metterials, workmanship, etc...
-chet(without those bolts, it'd be real ****ing hard to put it in the rear, too man..lceaning those speaker towers and putting into that little acess panel was a *****)
I use an Apex-I front and the cusco C/F rear and love them, everyone at ballanced performance here in GA said they were very ood, but probably cost me more than most people wnat to spend on a strut brace (yep, 160 front and 250 rear), but hey, you get what you pay for, and I dont mind paying for better metterials, workmanship, etc...
-chet(without those bolts, it'd be real ****ing hard to put it in the rear, too man..lceaning those speaker towers and putting into that little acess panel was a *****)
-
sil80drifter
- Posts: 1313
- Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2002 5:53 am
- Car: 1990 240SX Hatch
Heh, I just got myself an OBX red (to macth car color) front strut bar for $48 (including shipping) and it is so f***ing great, I could feel the difference immediatly, but now I understeer like a bastard which is why I cannot wait for my rear strut bar to come in. The thing about strut bars is that they work in two planes/ways; how the react to frame compression (how rigid they are) and how they react to frame twisting. If you think about it, there is not much frame twisting going in (compared to frame compression), But when there IS some, then the hinged strutbars will not do much, since they will just twist in their bolts. YET they do limit SOME twisting since they are not only being twisted along their own axis but also along another axis which is a little to the front or to the back of them, so they do provide some twist-resistance. The rear strut towers of the car are subjected to much less twist, hence it almost doesn't matter if the bar there is hinged or not, as long as it is rigid and light. And yes it DOES suck to put it in without dismantling the trunk grey cover stuff (and taking that off sucks even more). But when ur done, u can drift again, and you understeer fear will disapear with your first accidental powerslide, replaced by a newly awakened fear of oversteer. Have fun.
sil80drifter
sil80drifter
-
240Degrees
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 12:41 pm