anybody here ever degreed their CA cams?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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themadscientist
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I wanted to map the various cams for info but I can't get my dial gauge down in there. It is tight as hell down around the tappet and the cam lobe smacks into the anvil of my dial gauge from any angle I try. Do they have longer anvils? I might get it in there if I could get the dial up out of the action.


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tyrannix
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themadscientist wrote:I wanted to map the various cams for info but I can't get my dial gauge down in there. It is tight as hell down around the tappet and the cam lobe smacks into the anvil of my dial gauge from any angle I try. Do they have longer anvils? I might get it in there if I could get the dial up out of the action.
silly wabbit

ive only heard about degree-ing cams from oldschool american big V8 guys, they say it sohould be done on any aftermarket cam because they arent definatly going to be at 0

never done it, and with the adjustable cam gears, you get the option to "play with it until youre satisfied" which is what i intend to do

so, in conclusion, i was no help to you

but, i *will* be sending off a money order for you tomorrow if i can find a post office on the way to the airport before i head home (on the plane)

BTW, if anyone ever gets the option of getting a 'disc-o-gram' procedure done. DONT DO IT

i should be able to walk at normal speed in another couple of days

CJ

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float_6969
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I've got an 8" caliper that I know will reach over the lobes, but I'm pulling of my cam covers for just anybody.....

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themadscientist
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Well for the moment I only need it to profile the cams. Basically give the numbers on the valve events. A 256 cam is not the same as a 256 cam, the lobes open and close at different rates depending on the profile. I want to record these figures. Depending on what I discover I may run two exhuast cams. I did this once in my RB20 and picked up some on top with no idle problems. The powerband definately picked up a "step" where the car started to pull stronger, the increased overlap finally hitting the right RPM for good cylinder filling I must assume.Later when I build the new bullet I will need to degree the cams because things like milling the head and different gasket thicknesses can throw the timing out of whack. I intend for "0" to really be 0.

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themadscientist
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float_6969 wrote:I've got an 8" caliper that I know will reach over the lobes, but I'm pulling of my cam covers for just anybody.....
HUH?

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float_6969
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I read your post wrong. I'm a retard.

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themadscientist
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float_6969 wrote:I read your post wrong. I'm a retard.
Oh that again, sorry dude. Like your helmet though.

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davidricardo86
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themadscientist wrote:I wanted to map the various cams for info but I can't get my dial gauge down in there. It is tight as hell down around the tappet and the cam lobe smacks into the anvil of my dial gauge from any angle I try. Do they have longer anvils? I might get it in there if I could get the dial up out of the action.
I was wondering this myself. I will hopefully try and learn how to do this once my block and head are together.

One of my instructors at school recommended using a degree wheel from Comp Cams and placing a dial indicator on a lifter (not sure which one). He gave me a set of instructions for the Comp Cams wheel and it talked about a solid lifter. Would my hydraulic lifter change or affect anything while Im trying to "dial my cams." The recommended spot for the indicator was right above the lifter but obviously the camshaft blocks it. I would assume a longer anvil indicator would work like you said or would it be possible to mearsure it from the valve side? To see how far the valve actually moves and see where it changes directions? But then again it is suppose to be crank and cams together. Im confused.

bentvalves
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I have heard of this as well, but am a bit confused to be honest. Feel like doing a write up when your figure out how to index your cams and crank?

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davidricardo86
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I'll deifinately do a write up on this. Im going back to school on the 16th so ill ask my instructors on how i would do it to this type of head(CA). Once i find out how, or if anyone on here knows how, like Ryan(float6969) or Dee(boostboy), the info would greatly be appreciated!

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themadscientist
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Well you are trying see what the cam is doing so the lifter compressing is irrelevant. if you were reading off the opposite end of the lifter like you would on a pushrod V8 lifter bleeddown would be a problem.You want to ideally get the anvil of the dial gauge on the lifter face and record it's movement but the CA's head casting is tighter that a 15-year-old so that is next to impossible. I can either get a longer gauge or figure out a way to attach a still metal rod to the gauge to transfer the motion. I am going to the tool store tomorrow to look for the longer gauge. I'll keep you posted.

bentvalves
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any updates on this fellas? I will be installing my camshafts, and timing belt this week and would like to know a bit more about this.

To degree an engine, do you need adjustable cam gears? What if I purchased a set of tomie poncams, arent they intended to work with one n other?

Greg

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davidricardo86
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ks13 wrote:any updates on this fellas? I will be installing my camshafts, and timing belt this week and would like to know a bit more about this.

To degree an engine, do you need adjustable cam gears? What if I purchased a set of tomie poncams, arent they intended to work with one n other?

Greg
Sorry no serious updates yet. If your valvetrain is pretty much stock, you could just rebuild it according to the FSM.

Yes you need adjustable cam gears to degree cams.

Poncams are suppose to work on the OE cam gears. They have been "degreed" by Tomei already IIRC.

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themadscientist
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Any time you alter anything they should be degreed. The mere decking of the head or changing gasket thickness will alter timing a degree or two. I was able to get a piece of wire down onto the lifter and attach it to my dial gauge. I am not really pleased though. I checked and there all dial guages with long anvils but them sumbitches are spensive!


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