Anybody ever "Roll" their fender.....

[Meaux]

With a baseball bat? How is that done?

I might have heard a "Rub" on the right side, and I'm sure it is very slight. Can't see any marks...

This is the 94' in question w/ 30mm offset.

[chinaonnitrous]

05 maxima wheels?....oh wait 350z whels?

[Meaux]

18x8 350Z wheels...30mm offset

I don't have to roll very much...just a hair on the right rear.

[squeefoo]

With a baseball bat? How is that done?

I might have heard a "Rub" on the right side, and I'm sure it is very slight. Can't see any marks...

Then figure it out first! Yikes!

This is a procedure best left to repairs between races at the local race track, ...or in the alleyways of urban decay.

Look under there and you'll see that this is more akin to killing a fly with a 20kiloton device than the careful informed repair your Q deserves...especially after all the work you've put into it. Replacing a quarterpanel on a Q wouldn't be at the top of my list anytime soon.

Maybe the car wasn't designed for tires/rims that size. I remember when people would put in air shocks for the same reason.

[Meaux]

sqeefoo says, "Maybe the car wasn't designed for tires/rims that size. "

LOL! Of course it wasn't, but that hasn't stopped many on this board...:-)

Hell, I'm in no hurry to do anything about it anyway...The only reason I have this setup is because of the advice I've gotten here, from other Q owners with the same wheels... :- )

[maxnix]

30mm too little positive offset. 35mm seems to be about the minimum in front. Somewhere around 38mm-40mm ideal for a 8.5"-9" wide rim in front

[elwesso]

Brian 37mm with 8.5 width is too wide for the front... I had 8.5 with 37mm and they rubbed.....

The offset is NOT too positive if you run the right size tire (245-45-18 rear)...

Take your car to a local shop that does performance stuff and theyll roll your fenders for like $30

[G50 Q]

Take your car to a local shop that does performance stuff and theyll roll your fenders for like $30

No offence, but why pay someone to do something so easy?

Here's what you need:

Hammer, small propane torch, a shop rag and patience.

Step 1: Simply take your wheel off, heat up your fender lip with the propane torch (make sure it's a low flame, and you keep it moving over the area you are going to be rolling) Using a torch is not necessary, however, it will help prevent paint chipping/cracking during the process. (On that note I was able to stretch my s14 fenders out about 10mm WithOut cracking the paint at all by using this method, and a eastwood fender roller) *Also, remember you have a plastic fender liner on the rear aswell as the front, I would suggest removing it, however, if you want to keep it on just be aware it's there when using the torch.

Step 2: Take a shop rag and place it over the end of the hammer you will use to hit the fender lip with, this will also help prevent paint chipping.

Step 3: Begin to tap the fender lip upwards, I've found that Q45's have some pretty stout metal here (in the rear), and it may take a little force (here's where the patience comes in) but, take your time and go slow it will roll just fine. If your doing the front fenders, it'll be a breeze, the metal is very pliable.

After a couple min, reheat the fender, as the metal will move easier when it hot, and the paint will have much much less tendancy to crack.

That being said, I know there are a lot of scarry words in this post like hammer and torch, however, I've done this many times and on 2 different Q's (a G50 and a Y33) and both turned out great. Don't let those scarry words throw you, it's very easy and can turn out great if you take your time (can't stress take your time enough..lol)

I have an eastwood fender roller, and I prefer this method simply becuase I've found it's faster and easier.

I wouldn't suggest using a bat, but if you do please heat your fenders before doing so.

<NOTE: Added some bold for emphasis.>

[Jeff Williams]

Good write-up.

I have used a steel pipe to roll the fenders at the race track. We kept one handy for that reason. After an altercation with another car or guardrail, we would pull the car into the pits, then place the pipe at the rear edge of the tire and fender. Slowly roll the car forward, causing the pipe to roll up the tire and bending the fender netal away from the tire surface.

This is NOT recommended for street use!

[Falkdesigns]

I had to roll my rear fenders recently, 19x9.5 with +20 offset. Had it done at a body shop we have a connection with, didn't cost me a penny and it's nice and smooth.

[ohcmotoring]

thats weird, cause i have the 350z track wheels and i had to role the right rear also. just thought that was kinda weird.

chris

[G50 Q]

I had to roll my rear fenders recently, 19x9.5 with +20 offset. Had it done at a body shop we have a connection with, didn't cost me a penny and it's nice and smooth.

Yes, to get it smooth you will need a "professional" lol fender roller, such as eastwood.

However, taking your time with a hammer and a torch will get the job done with out spending any money (for those who don't have connections ) Plus no one will ever see the inside of your fenders, so smooth isn't that necessary, unless you're running a super low offset on a wide wheel.

[Rex]

thats weird, cause i have the 350z track wheels and i had to role the right rear also. just thought that was kinda weird.

chris

What size rear tires are you running? And do you know your rear camber settings?

I think that makes 3 of us with the track wheels ... Wes will be so sad.

[elwesso]

well looks like my wheels wil be for sale soon!!!

[ceningolmo]

well looks like my wheels wil be for sale soon!!!

cough<over hear!>cough

[elwesso]

cough<over hear!>cough

You mean, over HERE?????

[NisanS13turbo]

since we got the roll straight, how about pull? I hear the metal can warp or gets mess up. What would be the best method to pull?

[one ton garage]

You crazy NICO guys! Put your stock wheels back on.. don't you know Nissan didn't design the Q to take anything but stock, and your car will blow up?!?

With that said...again... if you only rub slightly, and seldomly, then you won't need to roll much.. just a couple extra mm will suffice. If your ride height is about 2.5"+ down from stock, then as long as you have fender clearance at static ride height, the camber curve will ensure that you will always clear (the wheel/tire will camber in more as the susp travels, effectively moving the top of the tire away from the fender lip). Any rubbing you experience at that point will usually be from flexure in the tires and/or susp bushings. On one of my old setups I had about enough clearance between the tire and fender lip to slip in one credit card (so about 2mm), and had no rubbing probs AT ALL.

About pulling the fenders... this might be considered an art, as a lot of people just crank their fenders till it looks like doo doo (look at a lot of the 240SXs out there nowadays with the rear duck bill-looking pulled fender lips).... and not to mention the Q45 has really strong sheetmetal that will spell the doom of many a fender rolling tool. Totally doable though, but it won't be anything like doing a 240, that's for sure... esp if you want it to look good when done

[89 S13 Coupe]

ok i searched some forums for this but i couldnt find the differance but this may be a noob question and im sorry for it but what is the differance between pulling and rolling

[Jesda]

This is such a weird thread. Rolling fenders? I buy tires at the store with the tires in it, and then I drive to places.

[Rex]

ok i searched some forums for this but i couldnt find the differance but this may be a noob question and im sorry for it but what is the differance between pulling and rolling

My understanding is "rolling" is the process of beding the inner lip closer tot he outter body, and should not have any visual signs when looking at the fender. Pulling on the other hand is when you actually pull the fender away fromt he wheel and will result in a visible change to the shape/contuor of the fender, primarily around the wheel opening.

Hope that helps.