Besides removing the radiator and fan, loosen tensioner and remove belt remove alt. bolts.Then what? How do I "clock" the alt. for the rear "ear" to clear the mount? TIA!!!

Eric

sounds like you might have searched for an old thread or two. there are several and by reading, digesting, and visualising an approach you will be bettwer off.key things: remove the a/c compressor (reposition it near the frame rail), removing right tension rod and bracket (to lower radiator support) helps a lot.

Eric- i see you are new here. please, please tell us you have documented proof of your chain guides being replaced.

3Q Jay,Thank you! It would appear that the A/C Compressor, would have to be moved.(Without compromising the Freon, I hoped.) Is it just the two bolts on the bottom and then it slides out? (sort of? After, removing the belt of course.)

Eric

3Q Jay,My paperwork states that the motor was replaced with an ATK Rebuild, 10/29/99.Installed by Sacramento Infiniti. (60,000 miles ago ) I was hoping that the Dealership was aware of the chain guide problem at that time? (I read about the defect, on this site about two years ago.)I only run Full Synthetic Oil in all of my cars, trucks, Motorcycles (dirt and street.) and even my lawn mower.I change the filter and add oil as necessary, every 1-2,000 miles. (A little "Anal" about lubrication.)Change it, every 20,000 or when it finally looks a little dirty (Can no longer see through it on the dip stick.)What "tension rod", that is , attached, to the radiator support?

Thanks, again!!!

Eric

Don't for a New York second think that the dealer replaced the timing chain guides! Call the dealership and verify with the installing technician! Other wise visually confirm.

It is indicated to us that extended OCI seem to degrade the original chain guides faster. 20K is at least 15K too long even for the best synthetic.

Study the FSM and the posts here.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/

Well, I must applaud this site and the many visitors that have given some EXCELLENT ADVICE!!!!Yes, I did have to remove the two bars between the pass. side lower control arm and the radiator support. As well as the tensioner for the alternator. What a P.I.A. for a "Simple " Alternator replacement!!!! (the alternator was working fine, bearings were starting to make noise.)I did find a thread from 6/30/05 posted by GreenQ45a (not, with the help of the search mode.) I just started reading every post that mentioned alternator or A/C Compressor. This site is very difficult to comb through (with all of the different possible locations to find an answer) yet, I managed to find the info anyway.Much thanks to ALL that did in fact help me!!!!

Eric

67fire wrote:I only run Full Synthetic Oil ... even my lawn mower.

Wow... someone more nutty about mechanical things than I am!

Glad you got your alternator changed out... it is a pain for sure...

Heath

Nothing "Nutty" about taking the best possible care of your "Junk".I have never had an oil related problem since 1976 (the first year that I started using Synthetics exclusively.)Motors, Transmissions and rear-ends as well as wheel bearings and U-Joints/Ball joints/Tie rods.Nice to find a bunch of people that "Have a Clue!"Hard Core American Iron. But if it must be Foreign, it should be a technological marvel and lot's of H.P. with decent mileage for the fun involved.Once you remove the Resonator/Muffler on the Q-45, It sounds like a lambo or a Ferrari.I just added 2.25 duals to replace the restriction in the exhaust. (Have yet to try a mix of 100 UL Race Fuel) It still enjoys shifting at 7,000 RPM in all gears with no transmission modifications. (Extra cooler, is in the plan.) Third gear, goes to 135 indicated. (Check location, Nevada.)235/60-15's on the Front and 255/60-15's on the rear. (Firestone Indy "Something" HR Rated.)It GOES!!! Next, must add that 20mm rear sway bar and all will be RIGHT!

Eric

P.S. My '97 SC Saleen 281 4V Cobra, has a bit more GO!!! (550H.P. W/ 10.5 lbs. of Boost.)

Modified by 67fire at 12:20 AM 7/30/2008
Modified by 67fire at 12:21 AM 7/30/2008

I forgot to add that I currently run the Diesel spec. Synthetic oil, More Zinc for friction modifiers.5W-40. 15W50 Auto Syn. in the summer time. (With one quart of Valvoline 60W Race Dino Oil. (Highest in zinc content PPM.)

Eric

67fire wrote:This site is very difficult to comb through (with all of the different possible locations to find an answer) yet, I managed to find the info anyway.

Yes, the moderators did something rather stupid and moved all the archived content to current, so lonly archived seraches by poster's name are available, not good for the newbie. There are 3 Forums to search, this one, Q45 and for the really good old stuff, Infiniti General.

There is a tutorial stuck in the Q45 forum that is good for how search once worked.
Modified by maxnix at 7:26 AM 7/30/2008

67fire wrote:I just added 2.25 duals to replace the restriction in the exhaust......(Extra cooler, is in the plan.) Third gear, goes to 135 indicated. (Check location, Nevada.) 235/60-15's on the Front and 255/60-15's on the rear. (Firestone Indy "Something" HR Rated.)

Next, must add that 20mm rear sway bar and all will be RIGHT!

Actually, if you measeured before and after performance, you would find at most 2% improvement open vs. OEM exhaust. Nissan did their homework on intake and exhaust, much more than big 3.

20mm rear bar is good, but suspension rubber and shocks are also critical.

HR in the summer are no way safe over 130 in the summer, and only when new and unpatched. While the V rated SZ50EP was a great tire, Firestone is the second level brand for Bridgestone.

Presume the timing chain guides and tensioners are new?

67fire wrote:Well, I must applaud this site and the many visitors that have given some EXCELLENT ADVICE!!!!Yes, I did have to remove the two bars between the pass. side lower control arm and the radiator support. As well as the tensioner for the alternator. What a P.I.A. for a "Simple " Alternator replacement!!!! (the alternator was working fine, bearings were starting to make noise.)I did find a thread from 6/30/05 posted by GreenQ45a (not, with the help of the search mode.) I just started reading every post that mentioned alternator or A/C Compressor. This site is very difficult to comb through (with all of the different possible locations to find an answer) yet, I managed to find the info anyway.Much thanks to ALL that did in fact help me!!!!

Eric

This is one of the few alternator repair threads that I could find.

While I taking the front components off the engine for the TC guide job, I decided to give the alternator pulley a spin. Well to my disappointment it makes a noise that to me sounds like a Long Island Railroad train's steel wheels rolling across the track as it pulls into Penn Station. Also, I can shake the shaft up and down so the bearings feel like they are dry and most likely worn out.

Meanwhile I ordered another alternator from IOS.

It looks like I will need to take the steps from the above quote. I see where the A/C compressor needs to be moved forward. Do I need to discharge the A/C compressor before I attempt this operation?

It can be done without disturbing the A/C compressor, but apparently it makes it easier to drop it. Form what I understand, this is done without removing the flex lines or releasing the refrigerant - and teathering it out of the way. Both times I replaced mine, I was able to get it out of there without moving the compressor. The most difficult part is getting the nut back in place to reinstall the alternator... small hands are needed - and at the time my Dad was able to help. If I have to do this again, I will either move the compressor, or try sticking that nut in place with super glue.

Heath

Thanks Heath for the info. I got it off this afternoon. I did remove the compressor bolts to move it out of the way. This was one of the most painful jobs I've experience so far. Though, it's only hard the first time..