Any tips for installing stock rear rotors/calipers/pads

[vancouverbc]

re 1991 240sx

Im replacing rear rotors/pads/calipers. i assume parking brake cable just pulls off once you unwedge it. I will bleed brakes to relieve pressure so brake fluid does not spill out when I disconnect brake cable going to caliper.Not looking forward to trying to put pads in retainers. ($103 per caliper, $20each for rotors in canadian dollars)


Modified by vancouverbc at 1:14 PM 7/20/2005

[sanioll]

those metal holder are bent a little on one side.

you have to slide the rear side of pad in first. then front side slides in without any effort, since metal clips are bent to allow it to go in.

edited pic.

[MinisterofDOOM]

Wow, the 240 has TINY calipers/pads.

[vancouverbc]

Very nice illustration! Slide in rear first and then rotate up so front slides in.I might just use silicone to hold retainer in as the clips are hard to bend.

[vancouverbc]

I replaced my calipers/pad/rotors today. The only problem was that some brake fluid came out of the brake hose connector when i depressed brakes to make sure i had bled system right. The connections seemed tight but i tightened some more and it stopped leaking. I can't turn the piston in on the suspect caliper so i assume it is seized up. The outer pad was worn much more in one corner. sliding pins on caliper were not seized up.

Notes:

1. parking brake is easy to disconnect. one 14 mm bolt and just unwedge the cable.push spring back so you can free cable from stay.2. loosen all bolts before removing part or it will be difficult to untighten bolts on part that is not held firmly in place.3. you may have to bleed brakes when tightening brake hose connector bolt as it seemed hard to tighten.4.if you are using vacuum pump($24), test that it will hold a vacuum before loosening 10mm air bleed screw.(have the pump connected to bleed screw and pump up to 20 inches and see if it holds at 20mm)5.The rotor is just sitting there. easily comes off once the two 17mm bolts are removed to release torque member.6.the pads go one easy using sanioll's technigue. slide in at angle and rotate up. the retainers stay in place because of the position of the torque member. 7.remember to keep master cylinder filled as you bleed or if it gets too low air gets in. 8.soak all the bolts with wd40 the night before you plan to disassemble.9.have the replacement caliper ready when you disconnect hose connection to minimize loss of fluid.10. that big thing sticking out of inside pad is a wear indicator.11. left caliper is driver side as indicated by "L" on caliper.


Modified by vancouverbc at 11:05 PM 7/21/2005

[vancouverbc]

This is the rebuilt caliper. It comes with the parking brake mechanism. The piston is turned in as far as it goes.
Modified by vancouverbc at 12:19 AM 7/21/2005

[vancouverbc]

the nipple on my bleed screw is very small on my new calipers. I can bearly hold a vacuum using the smallest adapter i could find because it is not air tight. i have to pump to keep vacuum.

[vancouverbc]

I bought a tool for screwing in rear calipers. $4.99 at princess auto in bc ,canada.(you can only unscrew it so far before you have no room) unrelatedly, my bleeding screw nipple is so small that i can't find adapter small enough to go over it so i bought an adapter that stabs into orifice as seen in pic. it only holds vacuum, though, if i hold it in. not sure if you need a perfect vacuum to bleed brakes.