any subs out there?

[5upra]

well I am planing out a system...I have a 4 gauge wiring, and picked out a amp(Kenwood Excelon KAC-X1R). Now for the subs. I am looking to use 2 subs. I am pretty sure I know know what I need in them but correct me if I am wrong. I am looking for lowest resistance single voice coil.

I am looking for a 600wrms or greater sub correct?

[Looneybomber]

The wattage rating on a sub is it's thermal rating. For the most part, you can ignore it and use it just to give you a rough idea.

For ohms, you have to ask yourself how much wattage you're needing. That amp is 1 ohm stable, but will be draw more power and get hot. One of the determinants will be your electrical system. To get full power out of that amp at 1ohm, and possibly even 2 ohms, you will need an upgraded alternator and possibly another battery.

Two of these in a sealed box would eat up every watt that amp could deliver.http://www.creativesound.ca/de...SDX15

Two of these could work and are also lighter and cheaper than the SDX-15's.http://www.torrentaudio.com/

You could also get two Shiva's or two Tempests, depends if you want 12's or 15's.http://www.diycable.com/main/d...3945b

Or you could try Fi Car Audio.

You have a LOT of quality options when it comes to subs.

[5upra]

under what condition would I need another battery if I upped the alt? I think I still would like reliability than too win a contest so I won't probably go for broke, but I do know I want to move quite a bit of air. how would you anticiapate some of those 18" Fi Car drivers?

[audtatious]

Current consumption listed for that amp is 75 amps. If you get a 150+amp alternator you should be OK without having to get a second battery. The only reason to have a 2nd battery (with isolator) is to keep the system from draining the primary battery and the location is usually closer to the amps which is a positive as well.

[Looneybomber]

...so I won't probably go for broke, but I do know I want to move quite a bit of air. how would you anticiapate some of those 18" Fi Car drivers?

Well it all depends on how much you want to spend. Those FI SSD drivers are fairly inexpensive, but if you're really going to abuse them, go with the Q's.

Also, the CSS SDX-15's will take some abuse, I know, I have two of them...but they're for my house and not my car . In a sealed box, they'll handle a clean 1200w each, all day long, so you wont have to worry about "blowing" them. Thus why I said the two of them would eat up every watt that amp could dish out. Right now they're priced at 280.00 shipped (on sale, 20.00 off right now), so they're a bit pricey, but definatly a nice speaker!

Yeah, they're not in an enclosure yet. The GF and I have been debating about what will work ect (compromising). We took too long and now it's too cold to do any building, so it'll have to wait till spring.

[5upra]

ok, thanks for the help

[PoorManQ45]

Id recommend pulling either two 4awgs or one 2awg for your main power line.

I used a single 4awg over ~18ft and get about 0.5~1v of drop from the battery to the distribution block. this is actually very little, but every little bit helps.

[5upra]

well I think I will go for those sdx15's. Just wondering this but how would you rate this setup 1-10(1=weak sauce 10=blow womens clothoff) as far as power and air movement are concerned?

also from another thread of mine... http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...6-256 and http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...6-100 are these essentialy the same? FMOD's just need rca connections correct? They would be going to some plain 6.5" woofers and powered by the HU.

Modified by 5upra at 11:56 PM 1/16/2008
Modified by 5upra at 11:57 PM 1/16/2008

[PoorManQ45]

As long as you build the box big enough two of those sdx15s would rate an 11 on my scale.

What are your main speakers?

Also, if you are going to be giving those 15s full power you NEED to upgrade your alternator to atleast a 150amp model, preferably 200+amps. I'd trow a capcitor in there after the alternator upgrade iif your lights dim too much also.

Honestly, one of those will be badass.

For the crossovers. Whatever amp(s) your using should have low/high pass filters built in. Those two are not the same. The RCA one goes between the source(HU) and the amp. This applies the crossover frequency before the signal even gets to the amp. This makes the signal above the crossover point nonexistant to the amp.

The over one goes after the amp. This means the amp tries to reproduce all frequencies sent from the HU, then the crossover filters whats not wanted out. The problem with this is that this method sucks up about 25% of your power due to heat loss

[Looneybomber]

well I think I will go for those sdx15's. Just wondering this but how would you rate this setup 1-10(1=weak sauce 10=blow womens clothoff) as far as power and air movement are concerned?

also from another thread of mine... http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...6-256 and http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...6-100 are these essentialy the same? FMOD's just need rca connections correct? They would be going to some plain 6.5" woofers and powered by the HU.

Well as long as you can supply your amp with enough power (possibly via upgrading your charging system) and build an enclosure large enough for each driver, it will rock! If you do want those subs, you could even get a more powerful amp...which requires more power upgrades.

See how much space you have and how large of a box you can build.Sealed requires 2.5ft^3 or larger per sub.Ported 4-4.5ft^3 tuned to 25-23hz.If you can't make a sealed box big enough for 2 subs, you can always build one slightly smaller for 1 ported sub.

And if you have any questions about those subs, email or call CSS. They have good customer support and I've talked directly to Bob, the creator of the SDX-15.

I can also charge up my video camera and get you a video of those subs in action if you want. Free air that is

As for your crossover (XO) question, it all depends on how you'll be powering your speakers. If you're using an external amp, don't even worry about it. If you're using your headunit, you'll want that passive 100hz high pass XO, but if you're putting in those subs with that amp, the bass will easily over power the rest of your system!

[5upra]

the crossovers are for my weak 240sx system...they will not be touching this system I am building now. I am using 6.5" woofers in the rear, powered by HU, and I only want low frequency out of them. As long as I had rca connectors, the fmod's would work right? sorry for switching ideas so quick...didn't want to start awhole other thread

[PoorManQ45]

If you're putting a sub in your car there is no reason to use the 6.5s for low frequencies.

Are you the one that was told not to use tweeters in the rear because it'll mess up the sound stage? If so that's kind of true, but simply deleting the tweeters is not the answer.

I would install 6.5s, from the same manufacturer as the front speakers, in the rear. When tuning the whole system set the rear speakers a little lower in volume then the fronts. I suggest setting them at a point that they add to the overall sound, but they don't overpower the fronts. Once you start tuning you'll know the point i'm talking about.

If you're using subs what you need is High pass filters. This will eliminate bass from going to the small speakers that arn't as efficient at reproducing bass as the subs. This will inturn allow the main speakers to play louder as they won't be being overstressed from bass.

[5upra]

these XO are for another vehicle....no subs, but nevermind I think I got it. thanks for the help.

[Looneybomber]

these XO are for another vehicle....no subs, but nevermind I think I got it. thanks for the help.

If you're just wanting bass from those 6.5's, there's no reason to buy coax drivers. Check out parts express and see what they have in the 6.5" subwoofer catagory.

These are nice, but require an amp.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...4-832

These could work, but it may have an impedence dip which could cause issues with a headunit. I'd have to model them to see. With a cheap, small 2chan amp, they'd work pretty good though.http://www.partsexpress.com/pe...9-162

[5upra]

I am not sure but I am looking to put these in the stock location in a s13, so those are just to deep. The only reason I am doing this is because I am getting these 6 1/2's for $5. I took out my blown 4x6s and am looking to sell the car right now.

[Looneybomber]

Whatever happend with the purchase of your 13W7 beaters?

[5upra]

are those the 6x9 woofers? I am getting these cheapies for the time being. I got my eye on a blaupunkt 30W 2ch amp on ebay so I might do that.

[PoorManQ45]

how much is the amp?

blaupunkt is a low quality brand.

Let me know your price range and I can find you something

[5upra]

thanks but these speakers need not to be pushed very hard...I know it sucks so I am hopeing no more than $20 shipped. If you would like to find me something just in case...I will get a decent pair of coaxials and pay somewhere in the $100 range for an amp.......but remember I am looking for the amp to be small in size, preferrably out of site.

[Looneybomber]

are those the 6x9 woofers?

Oh no. When referring to the "13W7 beaters" I was meaning the SDX-15's.

[nwfyouth]

how much is the amp?

blaupunkt is a low quality brand.

Let me know your price range and I can find you something

Blaupunkt is far from low quality.. granted its not the highest quality audio brand you can buy, it is definately a good mid quality.. as far as the speakers.. i would without a doubt get kickers.. i had 2 kicker 15's in my car being pushed by a 4000 watt amp and i now have a power window that doesn't work thanks to the subs beating the $hit out of my whole car.. and although i have always heard that more power deserves more batteries, bigger alternators.. etc. but i ran my setup on a single battery that ran everything else in my car.. but its just my 2 cents

[PoorManQ45]

I'd recommend the Pioneer GM-5300T

For $100 brand new it's hard to beat.