Any opinions on these Megan upper control arms?

[Foosblood24]

The price is great and Megan seems to be a trusted name. Just wanted to know if anyone had a review on them?

http://www.importpartspro.com/mr6655.ht ... Ag9x8P8HAQ

[nissanfreak12]

Megan is still a name that has not been quite been trusted by z'ers. The 240 market swears by them though.

I have these exact FUCA's, have zero issues and adjust relatively easy for what room you don't have up there. Just remember, getting these you will need new tension rods, which is not always a bad thing, just harsher ride.

[Phan]

i had a pair of Godspeed upper control arms that look exactly like those. it holds up to daily driving but the hex screws where you adjust the length tend to rust really bad.

are you planning to go stance?

[Foosblood24]

Turns out stance was planned for me by previous owner and I honestly didn't know till I went and got an alignment.

And what's the difference between these and the Z1 FUCA's that these need new tension rods but the Z1's don't?

[nissanfreak12]

Z1 Motorsports HIGHLY recommends the addition of either Solid Tension Rod Bushings or Solid Adjustable Tension Rods with solid, spherical heim joints when installing the ULTRA-Light Race Version Front Upper Control Arms. Failure to add these components will result in premature bearing failure. Z1 considers solid pivot points to be considered for Race Use, and require routine race standard maintanence and inspection

Z1's do need tension rods, see the note that was from Z1's website.

[Foosblood24]

Yes but that's with the Ultra Light Race version.

I have a daily NA.

[Phan]

for the tension rod just stick to your oem but remember to change out the bushing.
https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/de ... php?II=222

aftermarket are bad idea because of there metal to metal layout which can cause other parts to fail prematurely.

unless... you are going stance

[nissanfreak12]

Yes but that's with the Ultra Light Race version.

I have a daily NA.

The street version doesn't come with bearings, they come with poly bushings. That is the difference. The Megans come with bearings, so thus the reason for the different tension rods.

If you go with Z1 street style, you can keep your OEM tension rods whether you use Poly bushings or OEM bushings.


Phan, Metal on metal doesn't always mean premature failure or faster failure rate, it just means it is going to be a harsher ride and louder in the car. If metal to metal was the case, don't you think wheel bearings will fail sooner?

[Phan]

All I'm saying is aftermarket tension rod is just not a good idea. The metal on metal plus heat and constant vibration will surely be problematic in the future.

I bought a aftermarket tension rod a couple years back when my oem fail. Within a couple of month the small rubber near the socket began to come loose and the whole tension rod was turned inward. So like the genius that I am I continue to drive it for a couple more month until I decide to remove them for a quick inspection. Once I got them out I notice the whole rubber area was completely strip and the tube that carry the long bolt could now be pop in an out.

Would I buy a aftermarket tension rod after this? maybe, if I'm going 20's crazy camber mad tyte JDM yo. NA DD no.

[DCaff300ZX]

All I'm saying is aftermarket tension rod is just not a good idea. The metal on metal plus heat and constant vibration will surely be problematic in the future.

I bought a aftermarket tension rod a couple years back when my oem fail. Within a couple of month the small rubber near the socket began to come loose and the whole tension rod was turned inward. So like the genius that I am I continue to drive it for a couple more month until I decide to remove them for a quick inspection. Once I got them out I notice the whole rubber area was completely strip and the tube that carry the long bolt could now be pop in an out.

Would I buy a aftermarket tension rod after this? maybe, if I'm going 20's crazy camber mad tyte JDM yo. NA DD no.

Aftermarket tension rods will not make the ride harsher, but will make it more accurate and last far longer without give that you get from the poly bushings, which are used for OEM "comfort".
Most aftermarket tension rods have a Heim joint in the front that needs to be set at a certain angle to compensate for when the weight is back on the suspension after installation- failure to cant them inwards at a specific angle causes excessive wear and early failure of the Heim joint as you mentioned. I know this from the same experience with my Powertrix tension rods, but was able to save them and have them installed correctly now. The front joint should also be booted to save from debris and rusting.