Any one with built ka and jimwolf setup?

[mikesloud]

I have just put 100 miles on car while breaking in. And I am trying to work bugs out . Some one that has good tuning experience?? I have jimwolf setup 72lb, ecu, cobra mafs with maf upgrade program, full build up of motor. After I drive it a little, at idle or at low throttle 18% or less or at low rpm cruise 1500-3000 driving thru town. It is getting really rich ,So I took my wideband setup out of my 93 SR20 setup and put it in to do some tuning and see what is up.It is weird ,like at idle after a a minute or so, my wideband is at 10.3-9.8 AFR and it almost kills car. I put wide band in and added a super afc to see if it helped to turn down fuel,but even turning the fuel down to neg.30-40% it won't even start leaning out. I have called jimwolf and they saY TRY THE Usual checks O2, mafs ,etc. I have replaced all. again. I do not what else to check .It is like it will go in a closed loop mode or something. No check engine code or anything. 95 240sx obd 2.I just would like some input on anything else to check.thanks:(

[Jeff240sx]

Do you have the 4bar fuel map with a stock regulator? That'd cause it.. but I doubt it.JWT has grown to suck in my opinion, and I'm sorry to see another person go down that road.You've got 3 choices. 1) Argue with them. It's like yelling at the wind for blowing. JWT will still blow. 2) Buy an AFC (1 or 2) and dyno tune. Turn up the base timing because JWT removes a ton of it.. I've heard 7 - 15 degrees, and adjust the AFC for 11.5-12.5 AF readings.3) Sell the JWT and buy a standalone.Or I guess a 4th choice, do what I'm doing. Find someone that can tune a KA rom (like Secret Services in Tampa) and get a dyno-tuned ECU. It'll be tuned for your car, not some general "super-safe on the ****tiest setup" JWT tune, and throw the JWT ecu into the bay so nobody will get stuck with it again.-Jeff

[Nathan]

Yes, there ARE tons of happy JWT ecu users out there, most of them with properly setup cars JWT ecu's make no allowances for your ghetto rigging etc, everything has to be perfect for it to work perfect. This is NOT directed at you mikesloud, just a general thing that I have noticed I know your still getting everything setup right As for your problem, how far is the actual MAF element from the compressor wheel? It should be 16.5 inches ideally, but I dont think a little less will hurt, I could only get like 14.5 out of my setup. If it is too little, it will cause a rich condition.

[Checkered-Member]

It might be too much timing (retard that is)…the ECU tries to compensate for the loss in power by dumping more fuel…

[klattr1]

are u getting any check engine lights for anything(maybe coolant temp sensor)?Did you set your base timing correctly(TPS disconnected with idle at 700 rpm and at 20 degrees on crank pulley)Its also good to know if your base fuel pressure is at 43.5psi at idle with vacuum hose from fpr disconnected.

[MikeMurphy]

What is your OBD port telling you?

[C-Kwik]

It might be too much timing (retard that is)…the ECU tries to compensate for the loss in power by dumping more fuel…

The ECU does not use any feedback that would tell it the power is down. Airflow would be the only way to tell, and if this were the case, we would not be able to use the AFC or E-Manage to compensate for fuel since the ECU would keep making somekind of correction to try and compensate. The results could be catastrophic.

It sounds like the ECU is running the wrong A/F in closed loop mode. With piggy-backs, the ECU is still able to compensate fuel based on the O2 sensor feedback, so at any place other thaan WOT, it will continue to add more fuel to keep the closed loop operation happy.

But, there are certainly other causes for this as well. Other sensors can cause a similar problem as well, where the airflow can be ignored. A coolant temp signal failure can cause the ECU to run a set program. But I am not sure exactly what the ECU does here. Mine ran very rich when my coolant temp circuit malfunctioned. But I assumed it reverted back to thinking I had 270cc injectors ignoring the compensation the E-Manage was making through the airflow signal. I could be wrong. Perhaps it just runs rich period. I also wouldn't limit a solution to the Coolant temp sensor either.

How are the A/F ratios at WOT?

[erich]

You do have the dropping resistors in line with the injectors, right?

[:: orion ::]

Can an AFC properly meter a CObra MAF...I'd bet that could be it.

Every time I work on it, I always wonder if DaveEEE's setup could be hurt by his AFC and Cobra MAF.

Let us know - Brian

[mikesloud]

any throttle beyond 18% the wide band say is fine ,just driving all the AFR looks good . I can unhook the super afc and it still does it. The drop in resistors are correct .

[mikesloud]

the super afc is fine with it. 5in 5 out is what it needs . hooked or unhooked it still is a problem . No codes , no issues that I can see with temp sensor unless it can **** up with out showing a screwy temp change . the temp on gauge looks fine.

[WDRacing]

This thread has been cleened, email me for complaints.

WD

[Projex240]

I know this is kind of redundant--but check the fuel pressure. The times i have seen this is when someone is using the 4 bar program.

[Projex240]

Also--maybe a bad tps sensor?Would that cause problems at idle but okay above 18% throttle?

[Jeff240sx]

IACV? Have you tried shooting carb cleaner through there? Otherwise.. refer to my previous post.Footnotes:1. Check IACV. It's the general cause of idle problems in KA-Ts.2. Check pressure at the rail or regulator. If all else fails3. Throw ecu into a large body of water.And forget about emailing JWT. They have such horrendous spam-blockers that you need a certain phrase in your email. Then a guy emails you back with a different email addy and a different subject. When you reply to that, the spam guard catches it. Phone calls/faxes will work to get ahold of them.-Jeff