just looking for some Georgia G's to get together for a meet.

Based on sales of the 5 ATL dealers there were over 6,000 sold.Reaching even 60 units will be hard unless you go to dealers and pass out cards.

You will find the community is way less than 1% from the members of all the various forums [including 5 other sites]........there are way less than a 2,000 members with G35 in US on the web that visit sites.

I just purchased a twilight blue G35 Coupe, and live in the Cartersville Area. just signed up for this forum to learn a few things about my new car, It drives like a dream...

Marty

Welcome to NICO Marty.

Hey Raptor,My mom lives in Cartersville so that make you an ok guy. No, you drive a G so that make you a cool dude. Welcome to the forum. What's the options on/in your G? Is it a 5auto or 6MT? Will you keep it stock or are there mods planed for the future? Are you the only one with a G in Carterville? If so, I'm sure my parents have seen you zoom by them. I'm sure they would be saying hey that looks a little like Kevs car with 2 doors. Anyway, welcome & keep us posted on your new ride.Kev...

5 auto and is a base model, was actually able to get the dealer to deal a little on it! As far as Mods maybe a spoiler and tint for the windows, nothing major. Haven't seen any in Cartersville, thou I drive to work (Lockheed Martin) in Marietta, close to Atlanta and see a few on the road.

Raptor, there's a Georgie meet on June 26

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....69453

come meet some of the Atlanta area Gs/Zs

and there might also be some 240s, 200s, etc...

I need a G35 to do an experiment with: Coupe Just involves drilling a tiny hole [the size of a ball point pin ink carrier] in air hose coupling [we'll plug it up] prior to TB to measure the WOT at rpm pressure loss [restriction] of stock or moded air filter/intakes -------one of each would be good].

Hook up a manometer via a hose to inside car watch and record the vacuum created...........tells you the restriction of intake prior to TB.

There has been lots of debate over oem restrictions and costly improvements................the MAF is probably around 7" WC and all the rest [including oem filter] probably only adds 3-4" prior to the throttle plate. My guess is 10-11" total

11/27.7=0.4 psi or 2.7%.............6-7.5 HP but we can't improve MAF which is 2/3rds of it.

Q45tech, I might be game.

I have the Z-tube with the stock air box and a K&N drop-in. I also have my stock intake tube and I might have the stock filter some where too.

Does the Z tube couple to the TB with a plastic rubber section don't want to drill into your expensive metal?

I can meet you Sat 26 say 90 minutes early [4:30 PM] at Gillys have a 7 PM appointment near there.

I'm not sure exactly where you want to drill but here's a pic of the Z-tube

Well to measure the vacuum [lowered air pressure at a point inside the air hose] at WOT flow we have to measure as close to the front of TB as possible because even a hollow pipe has restriction.

We could also tap the PCV input [to valve cover] line in middle compared to nearer the bellows.........probably less than 0.5" WC difference as the major restriction is MAF and its protective metal screen.

Kind of a poor mans flow bench..........where you keep the vacuum constant and measure CFM. With a manometer you use the change in vacuum to calculate a percentage change in CFM.

Works mathematically because we are not changing the air flow much because 28" or 25" WC is the STANDARD vacuum used in a flow bench.......years and years of correlative data to prove legitimacy of using manomter method.

http://www.highperformancepont...flow/

Unfortunately the greatest restriction at WOT is the cylinder head and intake valve flow..............fixing the 17"WC of restriction in front of cylinder head doesn't mean that 17" will translate to much more flow thru the valve.

Less restriction in front [upstream] of cylinder head is like raising the air pressure against the head.

http://www.highperformancepont...flow/

A reduction in atmospheric pressure of 0.49 psi results in a 3% power drop...[1.00 psi = 6.8%]; 27.7 inches of water column= 1.0 psi so each single inch of water column = 1/27.7 of 6.8%; so 1.0" WC =0.0024548 or ~~1/4 of a percent less/more power output so 4" WC improvement would roughly equal 1%.

Hope I'm being clear as to how and why a simple manometer reading works fairly accurately on an engine at least over the narrow range of say 20-25% [5-7"WC].

doesn't look like I'l be able to get there at 4:30 my wife has me doing stuff around the house.

btw how are you going to plug the hole?

Next time, not really important I find another to test and report on. Just looking at the design my estimates are with 7% maybe 5% accurate.Thanks.Think I will build a tee splice for use with brake vacuum booster line to measure everything after throttle body [plenum vacuum at WOT]............90-96 Q45 are 17" WC inside plenum or 0.6137 psi at redline.

Tricky on G35 because you never know if/when electronic throttle plate is 100% open.

I have tiny bolts stuck in tiny holes all over my oem air track from experimentation.

Would you recommend installing a Z tube,K&N filter $ Chip?

Or maybe i should ask, what Mods do you recommend for a New G35?

Most mods usually do something. Most companies try to be honest at least a tiny bit. They may cheat by paying a dyno operator to cheat. Dynos which consistently deliver the numbers are much in demand vs dyno that are always low but accurate go unused.Something everyone who buys a dyno learns quickly!

The thing to keep in mind is cost vs. HP improvement.The old 10 HP = a 0.1 sec reduction in et [Rule of thumb] doesn't apply UNLESS the HP is equally distributed across the 4,000-6,500 rpm band.Many mods to air flow [intake and exhaust] just improve the very top rpms 6.000-7,000 rpm, so despite a higher dyno reading acceleration doesn't get that much better.Some mods actually fight the factory otimization at low to cruise rpms idle to 3,000 rpms. Gain at top lose at bottom.

The oem air filter housing intake is SO MUCH IMPROVED over old style intakes that it is hard to get meaningful gains. When you can look and see the air filter element without removing something that is a very big clue!

The exhaust is less than ideal from the factory to meet California noise standards.

The hotter an engine is tuned by the factory the harder and more expensive it is to gain meaningful amounts.

A safety factor will still be built into the software to yield the level of durability the factory wants* for warranty purposes. Whereas years ago[1999] they might have used 10% today they are down to 5% with better engine sensors and controls.

Finding lab grade gasoline in US is the real problem! Refineries have substituted cheaper research octane additives components for 3 times more expensive motor octane test components.......the pump display average hasn't changed just the performance ability of the gasoline.

* easy to design into software

Raptor wrote:Would you recommend installing a Z tube,K&N filter $ Chip?

Or maybe i should ask, what Mods do you recommend for a New G35?

come to the meet today and you'll see all different kinds of combinations. plus you'll be able to pick everyones brains as to what's going to work for you. and some have proven there mods on the dyno too.