Any advice on cleaning 2006 Sentra 1.8S throttle body

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crackhammer
Posts: 38
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 10:59 am
Car: Nissan Sentra 2006 1.8S Special Edition

Post

Hello folks,

All vehicle tuning/maintenance articles/posts I am reading on various boards, cleaning the throttle body is one of the recommendations. I use Techron in my fuel tank once a year and otherwise use BP/Costco gas. I have never seen any change in the performance of the car but I still keep using it for peace of my mind.

Now I am considering cleaning MAF sensor and throttle body, first time ever (Already changed the air filter). The cleaning procedure for MAF sensor is rather easy, little delicate matter. The cleaning process of throttle body is also easy but I am worried about the calibration. Some articles I read mention that some throttle body calibrations are very sensitive and cleaning can become a huge headache. The local mechanic wants $150 to clean the throttle body. His labor rate is $98/hr. I feel its little too much.

Can anyone advice me on throttle body cleaning and calibration? How do I clean the body in such a way that it won't need calibration?

Thanks a lot in advance.


amc49
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:24 pm
Car: '11 Nissan Versa
'17 Nissan Altima

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Actually, the computer should automatically recalibrate pretty quick on its' own. The MAF would be more of a possible issue with that I would think. You can always disconnect battery for a while to force a relearn of idle, let it idle for 15 minutes after starting it back up.

Regardless, I clean TBs and they don't even have to be that clean, the important part is the immediate area right at the blade edges and the area of the bore right there. On my vertical Ford ones I don't even remove the part, simply reach in and wipe the pertinent edge surfaces and go on to other things. The only thing that could get recalibrated there is the absolute aircrack right at the butterfly closest point, they really should not touch but be amazingly close to doing so. That slight aircrack is the area that is important, the idle flow is based on that and PCV and any other variable idle setting function like an IAC valve. The OEM aircrack setting is to establish the IAC position to be able to have adjusting control to both the high and low sides to be able to adjust idle correctly. NEVER adjust that setting even if you can find it (commonly buried or hidden under plug to hide it so novices don't screw with it) as it can really screw things up. I actually have to good benefit on older engines but VERY touchy that, you need a positive reason to as it is easy to throw the IAC ranging off to make for endless fault codes.

If you clean the TB edge then probably need to clean the IAC as well, a good combination. Don't let any solvent used get into the TPS of course, and you need to know what the IAC construction is like too, they sometimes have a vacuum assist and solvent getting on that can ruin it. Why some clean them and then things get worse. If you have stepper motor controlled idle nothing to clean.


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