my vert is going under total construction...
before:
now:
will post pics up as i progress....
another vert in the works...
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DeXteR
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Re: another vert in the works... (nis-s13)
uh-oh... i see a big project coming...
coupe doors, wide fenders, no motor/trans...
coupe doors, wide fenders, no motor/trans...
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Eikon
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Re: another vert in the works... (nis-s13)
I have a feeling this is going to be an awesome thread!
I see a silvia conversion in the works.. with an aftermarket front bumper. Coupe doors w/ no pillar. widebody fenders? and rear?
engine??? most people go SR..
I see a silvia conversion in the works.. with an aftermarket front bumper. Coupe doors w/ no pillar. widebody fenders? and rear?
engine??? most people go SR..
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TIMELSS_vert
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BiXLL
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Re: another vert in the works... (nis-s13)
LOL, I would never be able to put it all back together!!!!
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Nissan240sx4life
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Re: another vert in the works... (BiXLL)
BiXLL wrote:LOL, I would never be able to put it all back together!!!!
yea me either but only thing it has to do is run with the top down!
Re: (nis-s13)
You never posted more pics. We demand more pics, man...nis-s13 wrote:yeah exactly what everyone is saying...as for the rims they're sp1's but trying to run something else since everyone has something similar to it...
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krash
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Re: (nis-s13)
nice man. is that your shop? cuz if it is holy crap! haha
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DeXteR
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Re: (nis-s13)
both sets are amazing. personally, i like the second set better. offset gives more stagger, and i like the staggered look.
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DirftKing102
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Re: (nis-s13)
Second set looks way better then the first set.nis-s13 wrote:which would match better on my vert and with the set-up i'm going???
(f)18x10 -14 (r)18x12 +12or....
(f)18x10 +7 (r)18x12 +12
And would they fit???
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TIMELSS_vert
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i like the rezax better than the vs-xx (first over second). as far as fitment goes, 30mm front and 50mm rear fenders would probably get the job done, but you will NEED to stretch the tires and run decent neg camber all the way around
*edit* Those 10 -14s in the front will be a ***** to fit, even w/ the 30mm front fenders. Use this wheel fitment calculator for help. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
Modified by TIMELSS_vert at 7:27 AM 11/6/2007
*edit* Those 10 -14s in the front will be a ***** to fit, even w/ the 30mm front fenders. Use this wheel fitment calculator for help. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
Modified by TIMELSS_vert at 7:27 AM 11/6/2007
Re:
Offset -14 is just too much for the front. +7 will be easier to work with in the front. They are massive big time!!!
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S13xCrazy
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Re: Re: (94_240sx)
ahhh screw em all'
Be original, go with the first set. They have a unique look compared to the VS-XX's.
And dish all the way around is BALLER.
Be original, go with the first set. They have a unique look compared to the VS-XX's.
And dish all the way around is BALLER.
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ishkabibble
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Re: (nis-s13)
deez.nis-s13 wrote:okay since most like the vs-xx better, now which one...(f)18x10.5 -3 (r)18x13 +10
Re: (nis-s13)
These...We already have enough over fenders with mesh wheels.nis-s13 wrote:(f)18x10.5 -3 (r)18x13 +10
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duffman1278
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Re: (duffman1278)
awesome project.
Give lots of info on the door swap. That is next for me.
The second mesh set looks the cleanest. VSXX
M
Give lots of info on the door swap. That is next for me.
The second mesh set looks the cleanest. VSXX
M
Re: another vert in the works... (nis-s13)
Equips
This is a sweet build, definitly worth following
This is a sweet build, definitly worth following
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one ton garage
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As I mentioned in my other post on your other thread... you must realize that wheels of such large widths with such positive offsets will hit the rear inner fender/strut... so you will end up having to space them out, which then puts them even further out past your overfenders. Those sort of wheels are for people who do a lot of custom inner and outer fender work usually. i.e. they unfortunately won't fit the way you hope/think they will...
addendum: Assuming one were to go with the widest, readily-available aftermarket fiberglass overfenders front and rear, figure you gain about 50mm advertised front and rear... Max aggressive you'd want to run would be around a 10.5", -20mm f and 12.5", -5mm r. That's with tires that are stretched quite a bit, and *at least* -4deg camber all around (but realistically more like -5.5deg + f and -5deg + r since you can't afford to have a wheel/tire scrub a fiberglass fender like you can with metal ones). Now, using that fitment guideline, adjust the offset accordingly depending on whatever width wheel you intend to go with, and also remember that there is also limited space to go inwards, since you then run risk of hitting the struts front and rear, and the inner fender in the rear. Oh yah, and also, just an fyi, but a front wheel as crazy as the one listed above will actually also prevent you from turning a wheel full lock on a car lowered more than 2", since it will actually touch the footwells...! Of course, no one around has bothered running anything that intense on the front of their 240, so no one really knows that that's an issue, but it's all those points of interference that you gotta look out for once you start getting into the crazy zone...
Modified by one ton garage at 3:30 PM 11/7/2007
addendum: Assuming one were to go with the widest, readily-available aftermarket fiberglass overfenders front and rear, figure you gain about 50mm advertised front and rear... Max aggressive you'd want to run would be around a 10.5", -20mm f and 12.5", -5mm r. That's with tires that are stretched quite a bit, and *at least* -4deg camber all around (but realistically more like -5.5deg + f and -5deg + r since you can't afford to have a wheel/tire scrub a fiberglass fender like you can with metal ones). Now, using that fitment guideline, adjust the offset accordingly depending on whatever width wheel you intend to go with, and also remember that there is also limited space to go inwards, since you then run risk of hitting the struts front and rear, and the inner fender in the rear. Oh yah, and also, just an fyi, but a front wheel as crazy as the one listed above will actually also prevent you from turning a wheel full lock on a car lowered more than 2", since it will actually touch the footwells...! Of course, no one around has bothered running anything that intense on the front of their 240, so no one really knows that that's an issue, but it's all those points of interference that you gotta look out for once you start getting into the crazy zone...
Modified by one ton garage at 3:30 PM 11/7/2007
one ton garage - thanks for all the info... i was actually at the shop today watching them cut out the rear fender wells and from the looks of it so far i really hope that it fits... and for the fronts i understand what your trying to say about it not fitting and hitting the wells and not being able to turn. Ohh well wish me luck and hopefully it all works out...
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one ton garage
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Re: (nis-s13)
Actually, I wasn't referring to the "inner fender" being the part of the visible fender that remains when you put the overfenders on. I mean the actual inner fenders of the car... i.e. the inside half of the wheel well where the strut tower resides. Once you start going crazy, there's always a little bit here, a little bit there, that you have to worry about. The only way to alleviate inner fender rubbing is to either space the wheel out, or tub your wheelwells, and change to a different suspension setup (like going with a rod-actuated cantilever system that will prob net you another 1" of clearance vs. stock).
It's a slippery slope, too, cuz the more neg camber you run, the greater chance of the inside edge of the wheel/tire hitting on that inner fender. For reference, my 11", +6mm with -8.1deg of camber will just slightly rub at about 4.25" down from stock (at which point camber is closer to -9.5deg or so). Granted, that's on a Q45, but figure an S13 only has barely an additional 5-6mm of inside clearance if I remember correctly. So what that ultimately means... is that with a 12" wide wheel, for example, any offset numerically higher than a +12mm will have a great chance of hitting on the inside. Even if you run less neg camber-which you prob will want to anyway-you only gain a few mm more clearance on the inside, but you lose clearance on the outside, which is now fiberglass and more susceptible to damage... so you want to avoid getting "hella flush" to them if at all possible. Anyways, I'm just saying you might want to really sit down and do a bit of intense calculations before diving into getting intense wheels, cuz last thing you'd want to do is not be able to use them, or worse yet, have them chew up your bodywork...
It's a slippery slope, too, cuz the more neg camber you run, the greater chance of the inside edge of the wheel/tire hitting on that inner fender. For reference, my 11", +6mm with -8.1deg of camber will just slightly rub at about 4.25" down from stock (at which point camber is closer to -9.5deg or so). Granted, that's on a Q45, but figure an S13 only has barely an additional 5-6mm of inside clearance if I remember correctly. So what that ultimately means... is that with a 12" wide wheel, for example, any offset numerically higher than a +12mm will have a great chance of hitting on the inside. Even if you run less neg camber-which you prob will want to anyway-you only gain a few mm more clearance on the inside, but you lose clearance on the outside, which is now fiberglass and more susceptible to damage... so you want to avoid getting "hella flush" to them if at all possible. Anyways, I'm just saying you might want to really sit down and do a bit of intense calculations before diving into getting intense wheels, cuz last thing you'd want to do is not be able to use them, or worse yet, have them chew up your bodywork...