another timing thread

[eliterit]

hello everybody

I have an issue with setting my timing on my ca18det.

I've read through some of the threads here about setting the belt and counting the teeth, and I get 39 cogs from cam to cam and 48 cogs from exhaust cam to crank mark on the crank gear. before i reinspected the belt, i was able to set the timing to 15degrees, however the car had absolutely no power below 3000rpm, even if i gave it wot, it would do nothing until after 3000 or 4000ish.

So after realizing the belt appears to be right on the money, i took the belt off anyway and reset it just to make sure i didnt mess up the first time. I put everything back together, and now i can only get the timing set to nothing greater than 10degress. i cannot move the cas anymore to set it to 15 degress. So i've turned the cas counter clockwise the most that it can go which is a setting of 10degrees.

Has anyone had this issue arise before? am i going to have to reset the belt now? I've also tried messing with the idle bolt but it seems to not function that effectively for some reason.

any help is greatly appreciated.thanks

[capowered240]

What are you using to set the timing?

[datsunboy]

try this.....

completely IGNORE the number of teeth/cogs.re-do your timing, using the marks on the crank pulley and the cam sprockets.your timing will then be perfect.

after that, most poeples CAS will be almost maxed out at 15 deg, but not quite.

[capowered240]

[capowered240]

Modified by capowered240 at 8:27 PM 10/4/2006

[eliterit]

Ok. I have taken the belt off once again and put it back on with crank pulley mark set to the mark on the oil pump. and the cams seem to be lined up as well.

also i get 39 cogs cam to cam and 48 from exhaust cam to crank mark.

I have attached some pics so you all can chime in if something isnt right.

[eliterit]

...

[eliterit]

crank mark

[biosehnsucht]

if the belts have marks on them (lines at 3 places across their width) and they line up with the markings on the cam and crank gears, then you've got it installed right. I know my OEM belt has these markings.. you won't even have to count as long as you do it like this (but be sure they are ON the marking, not half-on, like off by half a tooth)

[datsunboy]

looks spot on to me.

[eliterit]

ok. so i set the timing like shown, idled great, and this time was able to get the ignition timing to 15degrees without a problem and had plenty of room left over in the adjustment of the cas. I take it fora test drive for about 20 minutes everything seems fine. then an intercooler pipe pops off, so i put that back on, however car now feels like crap, revs very slow to 3000 even misfires.

Check timing again and to my surprise the timing is now at 0 degrees!!!

i checked the cas and it was tightened down all the way and did not move. so i tried timing it again and this time had to turn the cas to its most counter clockwise setting but was only able to set it to 13degrees.

i figured that the belt may have slipped or something. so itake the covers back off and with the crank mark set to the oil pan mark i get 39 marks from cam to cam and 48 from exhaust cam to crank mark

so i know the belt didnt slip. could i possibly have a cas that is malfunctioning???

[float_6969]

You've either got a bad CAS, or the teeth in the exhaust cam have stripped and the CAS isn't keeping time like it should. Also, when was the last time you replaced the spring on the tensioner? How tight are you setting the tensioner before you tighten it? Is this a new belt?

[eliterit]

this is a new belt. i havent replaced the tensioner.

i put the cas back in and drove it around fora good hour just now and timing hasnt changed from 15degrees.... yet

but i'll keep an eye on it

p.s. car runs great and now my clutch is slipping besides that all it needs is more boost and a clutch

thanks everyone for helping out

[eliterit]

im not exactly sure how to describe how much i tension the belt before i tighten down the tensioner. but it seems tight.

[c-rad]

Setting the timing on these motors is such a *****. I had this problem when I did mine originally. My timing was so retarded my EGTs were through the roof and melted the cap on my brake MC. Car had NO balls below 4k. Redid the timing and it was like a whole new car.

[eliterit]

ok . so this morning i take the car out to go to work and the car falls on its face, with sputtering and everything.. the car just wouldnt go or rev happy at all.

pull back in the driveway, but i leave the car on so it can warm up and i can do the timing because i thought for sure it was timing related.

to my surprise the timing is right at 15 degrees.

ok. so after i checked the timing and the car is all warmed up, i decide to see if the problem was still there. it seemed to have went away but upper rpm power would noticably drop off at about 5500rpm. , but after about 10 minutes of driving the whole car seemed completely normal as if nothing was ever wrong.

so here i am at work and i tried to go to a late dinner and the car just started acting up again like it did in the morning. I think i might have to let the car warm up for a good 10 minutes before i can drive home.

anyone ever have this happen??

[kapower06]

im still gunna go with float_6969 on this one and say its CAS related. That and/or ecu related. Does it throw any codes?

[eliterit]

ok i just not found out how to check for codes properly and the ecu is throwing a code of 34 (knock sensor).

tonight i am going to run a new wire from the knock sensor to the ecu to see if this helps.

but for an update on the problem i'm having, it seems to be temperature related.

at a very cold start the car will run like total crap. but after about 10 minutes of driving the problem just goes away, but the power surges at top end.

hopefully rewiring the knock sensor will cure this all.

[eliterit]

hey kapower06,

i see you removed your power steering on your ca. do you happen to still have the power steering stuff and are interested in selling it?

please let me know.

[r34 gtr]

sounds like it could be cold start related. dont quote me on that though. might want to check the coolant temp sensor, aicv and whatnot. just my .02

[kapower06]

Please address the knock sensor first before anything else,it will really screw up a few things(know from experience). then erase the code and see if it still does it let us know what happends.

The only power steering stuff I still have is the pump bracket.

[driftin8ez]

Check around me and a couple of guys on the board have the same problem as you. We haven't been able to figure it out. My ecu throws no codes i have a new cts and i still need to wait a good 15 mins before my car will drive right. with no bucking and boosting right. Some times in the mroning i will start my car and it will die after a few seconds then i have to start it again before it stays on. Seems to be a common bug.

[float_6969]

correct the knock sensor code first. Then let us know how the car is acting after that. Remember to clear the codes. Chances are that is what is causing the loss of power in the upper end,. I would venture to guess that the poor running when cold is related to all of Nissan's extraneous idle control crap. You could replace all of the solenoids, but you'd be out about $700 I'd guess.

[eliterit]

UPDATE

i have been experiencing the hesitation(car runs like crap) issue with my ca when cold when i put my motor back together recently.

I am posting right now because that issue has gone away completely.

things I have added/changed to the car that magically made the issue go away:

-switched to a very used t25g (upgraded from stock ca turbo)-added fmic (removed smic which had a busted endtank (huge leakage btw))-added turbo xs rfl bov(non recirc)-removed huge gauge amp wire running across engine bay(removed subs)

my car runs great now. no need to warm it up at all no matter how cold it gets and i'm running 12psi which is decently quick(much better than 7psi on stock ca turbo)

hope this helps some people out