ANOTHER Start Up Issue - *your thoughts*

[Stratokat]

I recently slammed into a curb sliding, and i've fixed just about everything that was wrong (which includes new wiring harness, tc rod, tie rod, crossmember, etc)

But there is one issue that i can't seem to resolve. When I attempt to start it at a cold start, it merely turns over, and over and over and wont start, until i tap the gas pedal repeatedly. I also notice that when my key is turned to the on position my fuel pump continually runs o.O

Are these problems related? And has anyone ever had this issue, if so, what was your solution.

(fyi i am running a stock sr20 w/t25, smic)

[Didderson]

You're going to want to thoroughly check your fuse box. Take the bottom off and inspect the wires coming from the pins that connect to the Fuel pump relay. I think it's called egm or something confusing instead of fuel pump.

Either your relay is broken and stuck open (err electrically speaking it's closed) (always running the fuel pump)Or you had a previous owner like my last guy who hotwired the fuel pump to the ignition ON (WHYYY Would someone do this i dont know).It's probably flooding because of this.

Good luck man, i've been there.

[Stratokat]

So this morning i went and did some tests. i took out the egi relay, as well as the egi pump relay, AND the fuel pump fuse, and the car continued to prime the engine.

so either my ecu is a wack job or the harness i picked up has the fuel pump wired to the ignition.

would this be why it is having trouble starting??

[Didderson]

yes it would make it tough to start. On a carburated car you'd blip the throttle for gas, but on injected cars blipping the throttle helps get more air into the intake when starting with too much fuel, which is what I had to do when the KA had the hotwired fuel pump.

Your fuel pump wiring is probably hotwired to the ignition somehow. That's crazy it still ran with the fuse out. I would start in the trunk and check the wiring back there by the fuel pump itself, If you find non OEM wires back there or things without a OE plug, you're in business.If not, then follow the wiring in your relay box from the relay and see if it's spliced into anything. That's how mine was.

If you don't find anything there I'd think people would have been too lazy to modify the fuse block but if you pull the panel off and find it is unsecured to the body, its probable that someone did. If it looks stock and untouched in there, look elsewhere for the problem until you've exhausted all other outlets.You're on the right track

[Didderson]

I don't think it's the ECU or ECU signal because taking the fuse and relay out would have stopped it from working. Ugh i wish I had a 240 so i could look @ the wiring and halp u more.

[Stratokat]

oh my that makes so much more sense. okay, well, my 13's @ maaco getting its frame pulled(only $100 total, mad hookup), but when i get it back, i'll check those specific things.

ow, and to clarify, the whole fuel pump always priming issue has just been with the new wiring harness that i picked up. prior to my accedent(with my old harness) it would start up fine and would only prime for 3 - 5 seconds.